Mudumalai National Park: Birds probably; tigers and elephants?

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14 Jan
We were loaded into two seven-seater vehicles which arrived a bit late - on Indian time. Smaller vehicles were handy because the roads became quite tortuous. Thirty six really tight switch-backs to be exact, coming down off the plateau after Ooty and towards Masinagudi. The terrain changed from lush rolling hills to dry open savannah. Between those we dropped perhaps 1000 metres down a steep ravine. Looked a bit like Africa except for the eucalypts and low undergrowth like lantana. The heat increased as well. The switch-backs were numbered and many turns showed announcements for free ambulance services, discouraging excessive speed. Even a sign advertising a free mortician van! At the bottom we were following narrow bitumen roads and dodging traffic. The savannah opened out a bit more. Outside Masinagudi village the forest thickened and our hotel, the Jungle Retreat, was nestled in there. Reception was like what I imagined a wildlife retreat might look like. Built around growing trees. Dirt floors. Lots of domestic animals.

We were staying in dormitories of at least six people. Little brick buildings nestle into the forest which had been recreated since the property was purchased a decade ago. The pool as like a watering hole in a game park, and consistently cattle and goats roamed around and drank from it. The whole area is open for animal to roam in from the animal reserves and the owners have photo-trap evidence that leopards, elephants and sloth bears are regular visitors. The pool water was cool and very refreshing. All members of the group took the opportunity to snooze in the warm afternoon. I had some time just watching and listening to the forest nd hearing unfamiliar bird calls and seeing monkeys cavorting in the top branches.

At about 1630 we were loaded into Jeeps and driven into the animal reserve for the evening. Along with dozens of other Jeeps we cruised slowly along the single lane roads spotting animals which were completely unperturbed by our passing. Amongst the group we saw (monster) squirrel, Asian bison, sloth bear, elephant, samba deer, spotting deer, mongoose, peacock and water buffalo. Macaques and Langur monkeys were common. No tigers unfortunately - though this would have been a real treat as they are increasingly rare. We have few photos of wildlife from this and subsequent walks, as we did not have our large telephoto lends on this trip.

Back to the Retreat where the owners presented a digital show on the concept of the site and the broad array of animals that come on through. Unlike other properties in the area, this one is not electric fenced. After a great meal, guests have to be escorted to their rooms by a guide just in case. The room was well set up and the facilities clean and functional. As all can imagine, there was a cacophony of sleeping sounds during the otherwise peaceful night.

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