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Published: February 16th 2008
We got our first taste of the Indian bus system on our last day in Chennai. It turned out to be a slightly infuriating but nevertheless important learning experience.
When a bus pulls up, everyone rushes forward and pushes their way on board. Once inside, they lay claim to seats for them and their friends who have yet to get on. Our first attempt was unsuccessful. I tried to scramble in front of people, but my big backpack made it a little difficult. There were several men holding two and three seats for people that weren't even near the bus -- they were off buying food! I glared and griped at them to no avail though.
But another bus with the same destination showed up, so we ran across and quickly boarded it. We managed to get seats, but the arrangements were soon a little cramped when a guy pushed his way onto the bench next to me. But he turned out to be a very nice guy who worked at the Atomic Energy Department in Mamallampuram (where we were heading). He helped us get off at the right stop and gave us his phone number in case we
had any trouble.
Mamallampuram is a small beach town south of Chennai. It's known for stone-carving and one of the most photographed temples in India -- the Shore Temple. We were starving by the time we arrived, so after locating a hotel we went in search of food. There were several options on the beach and we chose the one that seemed to have the most customers. We had fresh fish curry (we even got to choose the fish!) and steamed rice.
Most of the shrines and temples were closed at that point, so instead we just walked around the beach. Burt bought a silk painting from some local peddlers who approached us as we were admiring the sunset.
The next day we got up early enough to be some of the first out to the Shore Temple. We hadn't asked for a guide, but a guy who worked there showed us around (and asked for money afterwards of course).
Most of the carvings around Mamallampuram were created during the 7th and 8th centuries. The Shore Temple varies slightly from the other areas though, as it was done in layers instead of one single piece
Arjuna's Penance
Relief carving on the face of a large rockof rock.
After the Shore Temple we visited some other carvings known as the 5 Rathas, or the Pancha Pandava rathas. These five monoliths are the chariots of the five sons of Pandu from the Hindu epic
Mahabharata. We stopped just inside the perimeter fence to apply sunscreen under a tree when a few teenage girls came over and asked to take a picture with us. It made me think of Japan!
From there we wandered around a park that contained several more stone carvings and structures. It also had a lot of monkeys! I have to say that I'm very thankful for my zoom! I'm not really courageous when it comes to approaching wildlife.
The heat was starting to get to us, so we headed back to the hotel, changed into swimsuits and went for a brief swim in the ocean. There's a pool at the hotel we were staying at but unlike me, Burt isn't a fan of ultra-chlorinated water.
Dinner was our best meal up to that point -- seafood biriyani (rice dish) and a Tamil Nadu style calamari curry. We practically licked the bowls clean!
We probably could have stayed in
Mamallampuram longer, but this is a huge country and we both have so many things that we want to see. So the next day we had a late breakfast and then took a taxi to the town of Pondicherry.
Here are some more rules that we've learned:
1) Honk at anything and everything. Even the absence of something is a thing to honk at.
2) Carry two guidebooks. Without fail, one or both will either be wrong or not contain enough information.
3) The sidewalk is not for pedestrians. It is a continuation of the store-front.
4) Mosquitoes can wait outside a mosquito net for hours, only to all rush in the second a tiny gap is created.
We're actually in Madurai now, after having spent an enjoyable couple of days (and meals) in Pondicherry. Unfortunately I'll have to wait to post blogs on those because I'm unable to find a computer that will let me transfer photos from my camera.
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