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Published: February 14th 2015
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Mahabalipuram is a UNESCO world heritage site. In the 7
th and 8
th centuries the Pallava kings built a number of monuments right on the seashore of what was then a major part. They comprise
rathas (temples in the form of chariots),
mandapas (cave sanctuaries), giant open-air
reliefs such as 'Arjuna's Penance' and the
Shore Temple.
The Shore Temple is our first stop. We pick up a government guide at the parking lot, with the apparent approval of our driver. The Shore Temple was built out of granite and is on the beach, although fenced off from it and surrounded by grass. The carvings are heavily eroded by wind and sea spray and some are pretty difficult to discern without the guide's help. There were once seven temples, but the other six got swept into the sea, probably by a long ago tsunami. The 2004 tsunami hit the coast here also, killing 27 people and making hundreds more homeless. It feels odd to be standing in the middle of where it swept in.
The rathas come next. They are five temples carved out of granite outcrops, in the shape of chariots and dedicated to different gods. They have figure carvings also,
and have not suffered as much erosion as the Shore Temple. Parts are unfinished, as the Pallavas were often away fighting the Chalukya kings and so got diverted from their religious endeavours. By now the hordes are everywhere: it is Saturday so the world and his wife are out visiting, as are innumerable school parties (who are at least engaging).
Off to the open air carvings: Arjuna's Penance was carved by the Pallavas on a large granite outcrop, very detailed, and quite fun, telling suitable moralistic tales. Sara encounters her first acolytes of the trip : “Hello what your name where you come from?” Then there is also “One photo one photo”, where the game is to take a photo of a group of grinning schoolchildren, then show them the photo on the LCD display, which sends them away whooping with delight.
At this point our hitherto reliable guide starts behaving suspiciously.....we are suddenly beckoned into a shop. Here we go. “Just looking no need to buy all things made by poor students very cheap price”. But didn’t we just see that same tat on a market stall? Out we march resolutely. He takes us next to the
local Hindu temple, explains it all, actually quite interesting. Then the killer: “Foreigner not allowed in temple, temple donation fee 500 rupees, you pay me I pay to temple”. Yeah, right. Do we look stupid?? NO. “But fee is...”. NO. “Man outside he look after your shoes”. “But we didn't have any shoes”. We give him his agreed guiding fee and off he stomps, without a temple donation or a tip. Why do they do this? Do they never learn? I suppose the answer is if even a few foreigners a day fall for it, it is worth it. Our driver is furious with him.
Back to the hotel. It is probably 35C today so it is an afternoon lazing around. We are on holiday after all and this, we realise, is one of very few days in the course of the four weeks when we can do literally nothing.
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