Well, you only live twice

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Well now, like a couple of naughty school children, we're only now just up to date with the blog. Honest sir, it's 'cos the wifi's been rubbish. We're in Udaipur, something of a turning point for me, as I feel the vibe here is something more akin to what I was expecting/hoping for. It's a bit less intense, less hassle, more beautiful than we've had previously. Delhi is a sprawling black hole of traffic and car fumes, terrifying to get lost in, and Agra revolves around the Taj Mahal, and felt corrupted slightly by tourists (hypocritical, I know). Now I think I am coming to terms with India, not only her ways, people and heat, but I have bought a new mosquito repellent cream, and I pray that the walking buffet I had become is a thing of the past.

This morning, we first headed to the Udaipur City Palace. A slightly steep asking price to get in of Rs750 (about £9), but the complex is huge. It is still the seat of the Maharana of Mewar, the only princely state, never to cede control to either the Mughals or the later British. It is the best preserved palace we've been to and there are many interesting historical titbits about the place. That took a good few hours, and then it was time for the Jagdesh temple. Pretty standard as temples here go, including the boiling hot marble. I should explain. As a respect thing, you always leave your shoes at a designated point outside the temple before going in. As a result you must walk barefoot across whatever distance of marble before you reach the shade of the interior. Trouble is, once the slabs have been baking all morning in the 45 degree heat it becomes like walking on red hot coals. Obviously I exaggerate, as all the Indians seem to manage no problem, so evidently I am just a wimp. Probably, however I like to think of myself instead as a sensitive sole. I never went barefoot anywhere as a child, and even in the house I wore socks (much better for sliding on the kitchen lino).

So some Udaipur history for you. The Rajput (Hindu controlled dynasty) capital was moved here in the 1500s from Chittor, after all that nasty business with 3 mass suicides, and the fort being indefensible. Then came the 1983 Bond blockbuster, Octopussy, largely filmed in the streets of Udaipur, in the Monsoon Palace (just over the other side of the lake) and the City Palace and hotel next door. As a result, it's not hard to come across someone, for example when strolling out of the temple, who was an integral part of the movie, those 30 years ago... Because of this silver screen success, many of the restaurants (most of which situated on rooftops) show nightly screenings of the film at 7pm, when the cricket's not on that is.

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Photos

Painting of a horse, probably by Stubbs
Michael, this one's for you