The Venice of the East, Mt. Abu, and out in the field

---

Auight, I am currently in Udaipur, Rajasthan, deservingly known as the Venice of the East--also the Lake City, White City and the most romantic city in India. Udaipur was once the home to a great kingdom and is built around a central lake. The architecture is amazing. It's a cluster of winding streets and buildings, or 'havelis,' piled one on top of another, all with extremely intricate arches and moldings. All the buildings have rooftops with multiple terraces that overlook the rest of the city and the lake. The surrounding countryside is the Aravelli mountains, with forts and palaces perched on the crests in the distance. The view from my hotel is amazing (see pics below). At dusk everyone stands on the rooftops of their houses and they fly kites as the sun sets. It really is a seductive place. The stained glass window in my room opens to look directly at the Jagdish Hindu Temple (circa 1628), that is literally next door. This is definitely my favorite place in India so far.

Of note: In the center of the lake is the famed Lake Palace, the summer retreat of the Mewar dynasty, it covers the whole of a small island. You probably have seen the Lake Palace, but don't know it....the James Bond movie "Octupussy" was filmed here (and at the Monsoon Palace in the mountains).

On the job
The ACCESS office in Udaipur has been incredibly helpful in arranging meetings and establishing contacts. They have provided me with transportation the entire time I've been here and accompanied me to field sites to translate if necessary. I have met with three organizations based in Udaipur that serve the needs of the poor, urban and tribal/rural, communities. In addition to meeting the managers I was able to make two field visits to rural areas where microfinance meetings were being conducted with the local women participating in the program. It was incredible to see faces of the people that benefit from these organizations' work and hear stories about how they used the money they were lent to start a food stand, buy materials for handicrafts that they can sell at market, or pay for treatment of a sick family member. I am learning a lot about the poor in India...what risks they face, how they cope with risk, their attitude toward healthcare, etc.

Both of the sites I visited were far away from the city, one requiring an overnight trip to the only hillstation in Rajasthan, Mt Abu. Mt Abu is a retreat in the summer for Rajasthani and Gujurati families that can afford it. The mountian rises directly from the flat plains below to an altitude of 2200 meters so it's a lot cooler. We arrived at dusk and went to Sunset Point, a ridge facing west. On Mt Abu, sunset is the main attraction and there are hundreds of families that walk the 1K trail to the top. Along the way there are vendors selling things you normally find in amusement parks (i.e. "candy clouds" (cotton candy)).

Okay, so normally the sunset is the main attraction, however...since myself and another American were there, we ended up being the main attraction instead. People could not stop taking pictures and screaming "hello" from a distance. We really stood out since no foreigners ever go to Abu. Some would ask to take a picture with us, while some others would stand casually by my side and try to get a shot on their cell phone without me noticing!! I don't understang what is so fascinating, but it seamed really harmless. Although, I did kinda feel like I was in a zoo.

I have made some important arrangements for the next couple of weeks. I will meet with one of the first and largest microfinance organizations, SEWA, in Ahmedabad, and then several national and international commercial insurers based in Mumbai (Bombay). I am increasingly surprised at how inviting and receptive big wig ke directors and CEOs are when I speak with them about my project. Doors are opening easier than I expected.....for now. Maybe I should not say that out loud....

Oh yeah, and earlier today I visited the Maharaja of Udaipur's vintage car collection, on display to the public. Tonight I leave for Ahmedabad on the overnight bus.

---

Photos

View from hotel room
This alcove in my room has a stained glass window that opens to the Jagdish Temple in the background. Btw this room cost me about $7 per night (no A/C though)

Lake Palace (Bond film site)
The palace is in the distance to the left.

From rooftop
Sunset from the roof of my hotel. On the top (left) of the mountain in the distance is the Monsoon Palace

Mt. Abu
People gather by the hundreds to watch the sunset on top of Mt. Abu

Tasty snack
Selling a snack of chickpeas, lime juice, chilis, tomato, onion and masala......so good

Gawkers
Indian family that took repeated pictures of us while we watched the sunset on Mt. Abu. I finally took a few pictures of them to make us even

At one with nature at dusk....
Yeah right, I was posing for sure and the locals got a big kick out of this (which is why I'm partially smiling)

Ghost
Actually it's me taking a photo of the emblem on one of the Mharaja's classic cars. This one was like a 1938 Cadillac...with original paint (shiny aint it)