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Published: April 19th 2006
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It's a mark of just how keyed up at work I've been recently that I think it was only last Sunday, when I was wending my way around and deliberatly trying to lose myself in the warren of alleyways of Jaisalmer fort, that I actually relaxed down enough to recognise I was now on holiday and remote from everything else going on in the world.
Jaisalmer fort is amazing, it's the only fort in India that is still lived in, and consists of a maze of small alleyways that house the forts residents and shopkeepers.
It's easy to lose your way, and that is something to be encouraged.
Before leaving the fort I made one more purchase. While in the cyber caff I took a liking to a bollywood CD that was playing and asked what it was to see if I could find a copy.
The lad said I could have it as a gift, I said I could buy it off him, we settled a price, and then he told me I must tell no one as if his boss discovered he had sold me his CD he would be in big trouble.
(Checked
my Moral parameters and decided I could go along with that)!
That night over a rooftop dinner Jamie, (very magnanimously), announced to the group that he had checked the facts on the internet and that the HOKEY COKEY was in fact a British song, stolen and patented by an American GI during the war and renamed the Hokey Pokey!
I was so pleased I made a loud and prolonged annoncement off the rooftop to the City of Jaisalmer in a style that Jamie lated equated as being akin to that of Martin Luther King.
It was a long, patriotic and inspiring piece that played on the fact the yanks had nipped in at the end of the war anyway, (sorry Claudia), that the GI in question was probably Mel Gibson's grandad, who no doubt had also stolen the concept for Marmite, bastardised it into Vegemite, and therin sold it to the Ozzies.
(Another dispute that has been going on)!
Yesterday we crossed the desert from Jaisalmer to our next stop of Jodhpur.
NOTEā¦ "Nestling within the depths of the Thar Desert, is the stronghold of the Rathore clan - Jodhpur, once the capital of the former princely state of Marwar, the second largest city of Rajasthan, after Jaipur . The town was once known as Marwar, which means 'Land of Death', probably, referring to the harsh desert climate. It is an island of marble palaces, cordoned off from the desert by an immense wall, with eight gates facing different directions.
Flanked on its western side by the Mehrangarh fort, and on the eastern side by the stately sandstone Palace of Umaid Bhawan, the monuments, temples and gardens of Jodhpur depict a multi-faceted grandeur.
Founded in 1459 AD., by the Suryavanshi Rao Jodha, Jodhpur gradually grew around the towering Mehrangarh fort. A flourishing trading centre in the 16th century, Jodhpur is still one of the leading centres of wool, cattle, camels and salt . It showcases some very fine mementoes of its glorious past - palaces, temples and other elegant monuments of architectural and historical value."
Called 'the blue city', because of the blue wash used on the walls of the local dwellings, it's principal tourist attraction is the impressive Meherangarth Fort, perched high up on the rock above the city.
No ruin this, but a living Musuem to the ancient
moghul kings and the days of the Raj.
It takes a lot of walking around, but has a very good audio tour.
Its like something straight out of George McDonald Frasers Flashman books!
Note to Micheal... Got both 'The Mountain of Light' and 'The Great Game' with me this trip!
Best part for me was walking along the wide battlements high above the city where the view was stunning and the noises from the streets far below very atmospheric.
Worst part for Nadine was the constant gawping from the local men and the disapproving looks from the local women and she got quite stroppy about it eventually.
Jodhpur certainly is a lot more in your face.
We are in the midst of the Golden triangle so the locals are much more tourist savvy than they have been so far, and not so keen on just talking to you to say hello.
Instead they want your money!
There are two types!
First there are the local kids, (not the begger kids, just the local ones), who have gotten use to asking stupid tourists for cash and getting it! Therefore they tend to come right up to you and ask for cash, and will mob you unashemedly. Here the tactic I had to take changed from being the jolly smiley big bloke strolling though town being nice to the all the small children, to the bad tempered bastard shouting abuse at them and telling them where to go. (Which actually works just as effectively).
Then you have the genuine beggers! I've seen them in other parts of India, but in Jodhpur they are more persistant. It can be a disconcerting experience as they tend to come at you in shuffling groups like creatures in a Zombie film.
Note to June... That thing you said about me being insensitive?... Yup You're spot on!
Of course we've all seen those charity programmes showing us the squalid conditions of another nations poor as part of a fund raising telethon type thing, and there is always that bit where the chosen celebrity is seen having an emotional moment to the camera saying stuff along the lines of... 'I'm sorry but the full enormity of this has only just come home to me!' or some other such rot to tug at your heart strings to get you reaching for the pledge line.
Thing is though, in reality, if you're going to visit these places you better learn to get pretty hard faced pretty damn quick and accept that the world aint a fair place and you can't help everyone.
(Africa was far worse than India in this, so I'm well practiced and there is a reason why back at work John Mayer has so much bother every year in getting a quid out of me for 'Bring a pound to work day').
If you want to practice charity on these streets then you have to choose your subject carefully and be sly in how you give them your cash, (or you will quickly have a never ending swarm of people pleading at you)!
We spent some time in a market buying spice and had throughout been hassled by beggers. I noticed one lad with a deformed foot who was using a plank of wood as a makeshift crutch. I ignored him when he first approached but then walked up the street to where I could take out some rupees without being seen, and then turned back round and walked back towards him as nonchalantly as I could. He in turn seemed to know what I was doing, hobbled in my direction and as we passed we exchanged the money like we were making an illicit drug deal without any other begger noticing.
Start bandying money about in plain view and getting all emotional and you will find yourself surrounded very quickly.
Last night we went out for dinner to celebrate Paula's birthday. Went to a great, (apparent tree house themed), restaurant called 'On The Rocks', (Vipal had even organised her a cake).
I had the first big Indian meal I've had for a week. Ever since my ickyness last week I've been very carefull as to when I get adventurous in culinary matters.
The other day in Jaislamer Jamie put his head in his hands when I ordered a poached egg and Marmite toast from a bar that actually did that!
Thing is much as I admire his and Micheals mission to eat what the locals eat, I know what my body needs and when it's safe to experiement with new cuisine.
Top class restaurant in Jodhpur... I'm happy to go indian, but roadside stop on route to Pushkar... er...I'll pass on the curry... think I'll just have a twix!
Tonight we've moved on and are in the quiet hippy enclave of Pushkar, (the holiest place in all India)! But right now it's getting late.
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