The holy coconut

---

Hi everyone,

You'll be pleased to know that since my last entry, I have checked some flowers, rice and dye into a lake on your behalf and prayed for your wellbeing and protection!!

Yes folks...we've been to Pushkar. This is a holy pilgrimage place in Rajasthan, where people come to bath in the lake and pray for good fortune for their friends and families. Mainly, this means that there are loads of fakers trying to force flowers into your hands and get you to chuck them in the lake. They claim 'no charge, no charge, just peace for your family and for your heart', then you do some bizarre ritual where they get you to chant stuff, throw the flowers in the water, put a blob of rice/red dye on your forehead, tie a red string round your hand and get you to hold a coconut (it was never quite clear what that was for, but it didn't seem the moment to start challenging the symbolic value of their props...).

I may have slightly ruined the tranquil calm by spending the whole reflective spiritual experience in a state of extreme tension, wondering how many rupees this man was going to try and extract out of me. We managed to wriggle out of being ripped off by putting some money in a charity box, so it didn't end up being too traumatic. It really was difficult to resist when it seems like the whole town wants you to go to the holy lake! The setting was really beautiful and more peacefully enjoyed later on, in a cafe with great views across the lake.

Today we are in Jodhpur, where we have been to see the massive fort on the hillside - an amazing sight. We have done a lot of driving through the countryside, which provides fascinating glimpses of rural Indian life. Today we drove past a bright red field, where chillies were drying out and the colours were amazingly vibrant. The roads themselves are an interesting experience, narrow, bumpy and full of wandering cows.

We are getting used to India's madness and maybe in a couple of weeks time we won't even notice the all-pervasive aroma of urine. We are also developing finely honed skills of advanced road crossing and cow-pat dodging, no doubt highly valued by all employers.

We have had some fantastic food, although everything is fried or bread. We are beginning to dream of big juicy salads, bowls of fruit and water you can drink from the tap!

We are gradually getting closer to the Great Thar Desert and the Pakistani border. Tomorrow morning are heading off to Jaisalmer.

Thanks to everyone for your emails - it is always great to hear from you.

Take care,
franxx

---

Photos

Holy Lake, Pushkar
I chucked my coconut in here on your behalf...