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Published: September 10th 2006
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Am currently just enjoying my last few hours in the town of Jaisalmer in far west Rajasthan. I have actually spent a little longer here than I foresaw due to a late decision to take a trip out into the desert for 3 days on a camel with a couple of Canadians I met on the journey to here from Jaipur.
It was early on Wednesday morning that the trip began as we were ferried out 40kms into the desert by jeep where we met up with our trusty steeds and camel boy Daniel. I say trusty steeds - the one I ended up with hadn't actually been 'broken in' yet and was the most obstinate, stubborn and single-minded camel of the group and often didn't pay any notice as to which direction I wanted to go. It also happened to be the only female of the group. And it had the biggest flea and flatulence problem.
We spent the 3 days just riding the dune seas of the Great Thar desert. Actually dune ponds would be a more accurate description - most of the desert was scrub-land which was actually rather green due to some uncharacteristic rainfall in
the last few months. But there was the odd steepling dune to make me feel like Thomas of Arabia. In the evenings we would just lay down our blankets on the sand under the stars and fall asleep to the folk songs of the camel boy and the gentle crackle of the camp fire. Or that was the idea. On the first evening we had a fantastic sunset and all was going well. Then after dinner we found ourselves laid under seige by beetles. Not a massive issue you would think. But these beetles were the size of a 2 quid coin and of the Dung variety. The thought of waking up surrounded in balls of camel sh*t made us all slightly on edge and along with a strong wind that covered us all in sand made for an average night's sleep.
The second night proved to be a little more comfortable as we found ourselves a platform to sleep on that the Dung Beetles and the sand were largely unable to penetrate (although we did get caught by some rain!). The trip finished on Friday evening and despite being a little sunburnt and having the sorest bum and
groin this side of Mecca the experience had been a lot of fun. Some of scenery was fantastic, the company was good and by the end camels had grown on me (not literally - that would be hideous). They may be ugly and flatulent beyond comparison but they are gentle and laid-back creatures who look really amusing when they eat.
Back in Jaisalmer, I decided to take a lazy day yesterday and catch up on some sleep and watch cricket and football on the telly in my room. Today I took a wander around the magnificent golden fort and palace in the town. Perched up on a hill it rises like a giant sandcastle out of the desert. The palace and fort museum had recently installed audio guides to take people through the history and culture of Jaisalmer's famous monument. Although it sounds a little cheesy and touristy the guides were a great idea and provided a plethora of interesting facts and illustrations that could be taken in at my own pace. It also meant I didn't have to pay to listen to some bloke, claiming to be an official guide, waffle on in broken english, telling me his
grandfather used to be best mates with the Maharaja before whisking me off to his brother's Emporium of Tourist Crap where I would get forced into buying a rubbish ornamental elephant or something.
Jaisalmer has been one of my favourite towns so far. It's quite small and laid-back and there is a lot less noise, traffic and pollution than other cities. Whilst there is a lot less hassle than in Jaipur, there are still many hawkers and people touting for business. It's actually becoming a bit tiresome now and I am very much adopting the demeanour of a Grumpy Old (English)Man. In many cases I simply just ignore them. The best they can expect in a short, sharp 'no thanks'. Normally they try to engage you in conversation - always the same formula mind; 'Where you come from?', 'what is your job?' etc etc. It's a little bit like that first week at University meeting people - 'what a-levels did you do?', 'did you have a year-out?'.........
I'm headed next to Jodhpur then Udaipur for yet more forts and palaces before I make my way to Mumbai and eventually Kerala...the beach, my natural environment, is now within touching
distance!
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great hoof !!
i didn't know sami was out there with you !! loved the idea of sleeping out in open .- good work victor !! did you not read your ray mears bushcraft book - he would have definately shown how to turn dung beatles into a veritable feast !!