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Published: April 25th 2013
We've Arrived!
At the railway station.The 22 day long tour I'm about to start is with Intrepid Travel, called 'North India Unplugged'. It's one of their basic no frills trips. We sleep, eat and travel like a local. View Intrepid's website for my itinerary, if you're interested.
On Sunday morning everyone is packed up, suitcases downstairs, and gathered in the lobby by 8.30am. Luggage was stored until we left for the train station later in the afternoon. We accompanied Bishal, our Indian tour guide, to the metro station. First stop was Jama Masjid, the mosque I was turned away from the previous day due to prayers starting. We left the metro at Chawri Bazar Station, one stop before Chandni Chowk, so approached the mosque from a different gate. Entrance was free unless you wanted to take your camera in. For that privilege, I paid 300 rupees ($6.00).
After leaving here we walked through chaotic streets to Sheeshganj Gurudwara, a Sikh temple In the centre of Chandni Chowk. I had passed this temple on previous days but not entered. We were also taken on a quick tour of the kitchens here. Every day thousands of people come here for a free meal, all of which
Jaisalmer Rooftops
The view from my room. is prepared by volunteers. The kitchens were hot but people laboured on, stirring enormous pots of food, peeling vegetables and making naan bread.
The plan after leaving here, was a local bus to the end of Chandni Chowk, to visit the spice markets. But, apparently no buses were running, so we walked instead. The older people in the group, Charlie and Therese, were lagging behind, so they were put in a rickshaw, and told to sit and wait at the other end. Thankfully they didn't get lost! I got my opportunity for more photos after abandoning an attempt to return here yesterday, so I'm happy.
Everyone piled into rickshaws and we headed to the nearest metro for our return to Karol Bach station, closest to Hotel Perfect. Bishal took us to a local Indian restaurant for lunch, where I had a good meal, knowing that dinner tonight and breakfast tomorrow would be whatever I could buy to take on the train.
I had planned to ask the hotel to make me some sandwiches for the trip, but Bishon said we could buy food at the train station, so I didn't bother. As it turned out, Indian food
was available, which was nicely packed, similar to airline fare. But it would be cold by dinner time and wasn't what I particularly wanted to eat anyway. Those sandwiches would have been good! I ended up with a packet of crisps, bananas and a plain packaged sponge cake. I had a Kit Kat ( saved from Bangkok) and plenty of water, so no doubt, I'll survive.
The group was separated on the train, but everyone had a sleeper bed for the 17 hour trip to Jaisalmer. The compartment I was in slept eight. Myself and four other tour members plus three Indian men. The walkway ran down the middle so there was a constant stream of people moving through. We could pull curtains across for privacy but that didn't block the noise of the door opening and closing. Our baggage was stored in our compartment, so it was safe. The carriage was air conditioned, sheets, blanket and tiny flat pillow provided. I climbed into a top bunk and settled for the night.
I slept fairly well, lulled to sleep by the swaying of the train. In the morning I ate cake and bananas for breakfast, washed down with
Garsisar Lake
Me in one of the lakeside buildings. water. The train made a quick stop at Pokaran around 9.00am, and we were able to stretch our legs. The locals watched me curiously as I took a couple of quick photos around the station, then I jumped on board again.We arrived in Jaisalmer on time. A motely collection of vehicles was waiting to take us to our accomodation for the next two nights - Deepak Rest House.
In the remote westernmost corner of Rajasthan, about 120klm from the Pakistan border, Jaisalmer is a quintessential desert town with its golden sandstone ramparts rising out of the arid Thar Desert like a scene from the Arabian Nights. The fort of Jaisalmer, or the Golden City, is in itself a small fortified town. It was founded in 1156 and about 5000 people still reside within its imposing walls.
I felt the excitement rise inside as our driver sat on the horn and manoeuvred his vehicle through the arched fort entrance and began the steady climb up narrow cobbled streets to the guesthouse. Looking up at the huge walls of the fort looming above, the intricate carving in the sandstone walls and the old studded doors, I couldn't help but smile.
This was the India I wanted to see!
Deepak Rest House was situated down a twisting alleyway, it's entrance very easy to miss if you didn't know it was there. It's a rabbit warren of small rooms, steep and narrow stone stairways, and a hodge podge of mismatched furniture. It has a great rooftop eatery with views over the city below.
After settling in, we had an orientation walk with Bishal through the streets of the old city within the fort walls, and then we walked to Garisar Lake, just outside the city. It looked out of place, situated as it is in the desert, surrounded by stumpy spinifix and the arid brown landscape. We returned to the guesthouse and ordered lunch, which we ate in an under cover area on the roof. Free time to enjoy after lunch, until dinner on the rooftop in the evening. Bishal had ordered our meal - four different dishes from the vegetarian menu plus naan bread. It was a delicious meal for 110 rupees each ($2) washed down with Kingfisher beer.
Getting lost in the narrow winding streets of Jaisalmer is both easy and enjoyable, though the town is so
Jaisalmer Street Scene
Wall hangings and bed spreads on display at a local shop inside the fort walls. small that it never takes long to find a familiar landmark. I was up early on Tuesday morning, and out walking around with my camera in hand, before the city stirred. I returned to the guesthouse for breakfast and to ready myself for our 9.00am walking tour with a local guide. The tour ended in a shop (surprise!) where beautiful textiles were thrown out on the floor for us to admire, and hopefully buy. Bed spreads, wall hangings and table runners, one after the other. They were expensive and I wasn't tempted to part with my money, though several other members of the group did.
During the afternoon we had free time again. I napped and blogged in my room, heading out again at 4.00pm. I had planned to venture into the market and town area outside the fort walls, but got no further than a textile shop not far from the guesthouse.
The young man in the shop spoke excellent English. He persuaded me to enter for a closer look at his stock. I followed him down some steps into an underground show room reserved for antique pieces. He started pulling piece after piece from the cupboards
Jaisalmer Street Scene
The shopping in the bazaars is great... and telling me their history. He showed me his oldest piece, a ceremonial scarf from 400 years ago. He pulled out traditional clothing from both India and Afganistan, heavily bead and embroidered, for me to admire.
I ended up spending over three hours in his company, sitting amongst his beautiful fabrics and talking about life. Ali was Muslim, about 25 years old, he thinks. He's not sure as he has no record of his birth date. He has never been to school, but speaks four languages which he has picked up from working with tourists. A lovely young man who was very interesting to talk too. I left his shop just before 7.00pm, and walked through the well lit alleyways back to the guesthouse.
The rest of the group had gone out for dinner and the man on reception didn't have a extra key to my room, so I was locked out. I had two options - sit at reception until they got back or go and find them. I was given directions to the restaurant, which was outside the fort walls, but I wasn't too sure I could find it. I had to walk past Ali's shop
to leave the fort and he was standing out the front. I told him where I was headed, and he told me to wait. He would get his scooter and take me there himself. So I jumped on behind him, and we sped through the cobbled alleyways, out the fort entrance, through the markets, and he eventually deposited me at the Saffron Restaurant door, as promised. Believe me, I would never have found it by myself! I joined the group for dinner and everyone walked back to the guesthouse later.
On Wednesday we are on the move again, but not until later in the afternoon. So I have a few hours to fill. I decided to return to Ali's shop and buy myself a small antique textile square as my souvenir of Jaisalmer. Ali was happy to see me again and pulled out his stock of this particular item, and I made a selection. It is a handmade, heavy woven square of fabric with a short fringe with a bead at the end of each piece. It was originally used as a coaster and is about 25cm square. The price was 1800 rupees ($32) but he handed me back
Jaisalmer Street Scene
A tiled Ganesh picture above a carved sear. 300, as I was his first sale of the day which bought him good luck.
I spent the rest of the morning wandering around the markets and accompanying a fellow traveller around town looking for an ATM machine. The first three we found weren't working, so he gave up after that.
I ended up in a silver shop, where the young silversmith gave me half an hour of his time and showed me how he made pendants. I selected a piece of turquoise and he set it into a very simple setting. I was happy to purchase it at the huge cost if 550 rupees ($9.85). Another special souvenir from Jaisalmer.
At 3.45pm, we gathered in the lobby as tonight we head out into the Thar Desert on a camel safari. We all squeezed into a modified jeep and headed out of town. After 30 minutes or so the jeep left the road and headed into the desert, aiming for the meeting point with the camels. They where there waiting, ten camels
Jaisalmer
The fort walls and a lovely old door. for us to ride and a small wagon pulled by another. We were given a quick demo on how to get on, and sit, while the animal raises itself to it's feet. Thankfully we all mounted without mishap and headed into the desert in single file. We were accompanied by two camel boys, who walked and lead them.
We rode for 90 minutes before finally reaching a long wide band of sandhills, rising from the flat, spinifix covered landscape. A small camp was already established where we stopped, with a few men sitting around. We dismounted here, and the men tended the camels, but then we moved 100 metres away to where a row of camp beds had been set up in the sand, next to a humpy made from spinifix grass, where the beds and bedding were stored when not in use.
There's not a lot to do in the desert, except run up the highest sandhill and find a vantage point to watch the sunset from, and there were plenty of those available. Dinner was a disappointment, Indian food served cold on aluminium plates, followed by a banana. They did have cold Kingfisher beer and Pepsi
Jaisalmer
Another view of the fort. I walk through here to reach the guesthouse, which weren't part of the meal, we had to pay for them. There was no lighting of any sort, and I had to use my head torch to see what I was eating.
Bedding was tossed down on each camp bed frame and the men made them up. Colourful cloth was used as a sheet and pillow slip, a heavy quilted blanket folded at the end. Everyone was bedded down relatively early as there was nothing to do and not as much as a candle for lighting. Toilets were 'open air'. In other words, find a bush and dig a hole.
I was awake early on Thursday morning, as usual. I retrieved my iPad and camera from my backpack and headed to the nearest sandhill where I could update this blog and wait for the sun to rise. Breakfast was served - very sweet chai tea, toast with jam and more bananas.
We were back on our camels at 7.30am and walking across the desert to meet the jeep. An early start was necessary to beat the heat. We had two rooms available to us at Deepak Rest House, where we had left our luggage yesterday. Everyone
Jaisalmer
The fort walls. was able to take a much needed shower, have lunch and get ourselves sorted for the six hour bus trip to Jodhpur, leaving at 1.00pm this afternoon.
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Ginny
non-member comment
Looks So Cool...
Hi Deb, just read your blog and feel envious that I'm not with you to see the wonderful sights, it actually feels strange reading your blogs (to see what we've been doing) and not being part of it. You sound like you are having a wonderful time and India so far looks intriguing, mystical, romantic, and full of surprises and colour. Keep the camera clicking, and your little pink and purple sticks a tapping. Glad all is going well, wish I was with you. Love you heaps. Ginny. xxx