Hidden tiger crouching Paul

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It's been an amazing but frustrating week, due to Paul's ongoing illness and an unsuccessful tiger safari.
We leave Rishikesh for Amritsar a town near the Pakistan border. The main attraction is the Golden Temple, the seat of the Sikh religion. People here are really friendly, helping Paul locate the loaned scarves, which provide the second opportunity to talk like a pirate this trip. We meet a guy on a pilgrimage from Manchester who gives us a mini-tour of the complex.
We also visit Jallianwala Bagh a walled garden where in 1919 the British opened fire on thousands of peaceful protesters - one of the events covered in the film Gandhi. We visit the memorial feeling shitty about our history, but the visiting parties of school children seem to have forgiven all (or have a keen sense of irony) and ask to have their pictures taken with us, an event that happens often here - we attribute this to people mistaking Paul for Bill Clinton.
In the evening we visit the hilarious border closing ceremony, set in a stadium divided by the border fence. At 6pm crowds from the two nuclear powers vie to out cheer each other as their respective armies prance about in a camp fashion for twenty minutes or so before lowering their respective flags.
From Amritsar we get the train to Jaipur, the pink city. We visit some forts and that, before heading to Ranthambore National park, where despite two jeep safaris, we fail to spot any tigers.
We head to Delhi. Today is the first day of Diwali and the country is richly decorated with flowers and tinsel, we are heading out tonight to enjoy the fireworks.

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