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Published: February 6th 2015
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We continued on our final leg of the journey with no overnight halts this time around. We had two cars, Innova, to be specific, six in one car and five in the other as had been the arrangement with us from the day we started off from Manali. Our Tour Leader ensured that we carried at least one oxygen cylinder in each car in case of an emergency owing to low air pressure which we would face on our way especially on the passes resulting in less intake of oxygen. So, we had kept two cartons of water bottles in each car to hydrate ourselves at short regular intervals to counter the acute mountain sickness (AMS). Since now it was going to be one long journey of ascents, descents, passes and plains with only quick stops/breaks as per the itinerary, all of us were bracing ourselves for an unexpected and all the same, an interesting unique journey ahead. Each of us were carrying separate stock of dry fruits, chocolates etc, proper medicines, extra warm clothes and taking all necessary precautions to avoid any untoward incident.
A few miles into the journey and we noticed a stark contrast in the landscape.
The softness of the mountains, the subtlety was left far behind. The mountains flanked on all sides had magically transformed into rocky unpolished slopes with stunning natural rock formations, while a few on the other side were completely naked and some were dominated by grasslands. All this while, you could catch glimpses of snow clad mountains glistening in the sun from behind, all in the same frame. Even the colour of the mountains was changing with every kilometre we drove past. It was a sight to watch. We couldn't help but gasp at the beauty of it all. The only downside of the journey were the damaged under- maintenance portions and potholes that encompassed vast stretches of roads. The highway is generally two lanes wide (one lane in either direction) without a road divider. On some stretches, you have only one or one and a half lanes with small streams of ice-cold water from glacial melts without a bridge. So, you have to be really patient as this might cause discomfort, uneasiness and trigger off nauseatic feelings. Plus, if you have an expert driver who is familiar with the highway, it makes the journey all the more safer and comfortable.
The riding quality is not very good at many places, so you really need someone skilled to negotiate with fast flowing streams and dangerous stretches. But then, who cares about all of this once you are already in the journey, so smitten by the beauty of it all that you don't want anything to take that away from you.
So, we drove past Darcha, the police check post where all the tourists have to check in, on to the Baralacha La pass. Just a few kilometers short of Baralacha pass, we made a quick stop at Suraj Tal Lake, a lake that feeds the Bhaga river for taking pictures. It was a unique charming lake with a clear crystal refection of the mountains at the bank of the lake in the cool blue waters. There was a sharp contrast to the surrounding gray and off white coloured rocks that were scattered around the road and the lake. Quickly after the brief stop, as we made our way past the lake, the snow capped summit came into view. It was a steep ascent as we made our way up the mountain to reach Baralacha La. We were forewarned by our
drivers and Tour leader not to spend much time at the passes due to low oxygen yet we must have been there for good thirty minutes. While taking pictures, I noticed several small rock stupas that had been constructed on the higher spots along the flat valley. This was the first point in my journey where I found myself breathing heavily. Although, I did not resort to the oxygen can but I had to take deep breaths to keep myself afloat. This was only the beginning. A few of my friends also felt a little uneasy and since it was a long journey ahead of us, we did not want to take any chances. With Baralacha behind us, we made our way onto Bharatpur where we stopped for refreshments. Me and my friends were so hungry and tired already that we had two bowls of maggie. Although, we were told to go light since we were approaching Sarchu (oxygen level is lowest here because of no vegetation whatsoever, making the situation even more difficult).
It was a steady descent of about 38 kms from Bharatpur. As we were coming closer to Sarchu, the jittery feeling almost took over. Sarchu
is like a nail on the rocky road that punctures you mentally and physically. It's a site for everyone to feel and experience. Our Tour leader had strictly informed us that there would be no stop at Sarchu. Yet, me and three of my other friends who were in the same car as mine asked our driver to pull over. Unfortunately, the guys in the other car had no choice but to do the same. Our Tour leader had seemed really upset not because we got off the car but because he was concerned for us. The crazy four that we were, we walked all the way to the edge of the cliff which was half a kilometre away, amidst huge boulders, scorching heat and covered with mountains on all sides. Standing on the edge of the cliff/deep river bank about 100 ft above the river I couldn’t help but marvel how distinctly different the two sides were. Dark igneous rocks faced the ridge to the East, sandstone formations just above the river, and granite rocks facing to the west with snow capped peaks East, West and to the South. That was the moment, I found myself itching for my
drawing book and a pencil.
I guess for me, it was a downhill from this point onwards. I don't know if it had to do something with over exertion at Sarchu or otherwise but the remaining part of the journey to Leh was a blurry one for me. Shortly after we made our way past Sarchu onto Pang sometime in the afternoon, my condition had started to deteriorate. I remember getting off at Pang to witness the 22 Gata loops from an elevation of 500m. After that, the rest of the journey to Tanglang La pass through a plateau called More Plains, just passed me by. I had totally passed out towards the last leg of the journey and the next thing I knew, I was in Leh.
I wouldn't go into the details of what we did the next couple of days. It's all about the journey, not the destination. All I know is I am still Leh'd and will always be.
I checked off the first item on my bucket list.
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WonderStruck
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Breathtaking literally!!!
Breath taking photographs and a gripping account of your travel. Too bad you haven't put up photos/ comments about your Leh experience. Guess you want to keep an opening for a sequel! Keep sharing your experiences... Good job.