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Published: January 20th 2006
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at Pahar Ganj
Sanjay took this picture of me at Pahar Ganj, after buying silver jewellry. My friend from Toronto, Sanjay, is here in Delhi, staying at his brother's house across the street from where I am staying with Ajay and his family in Panscheel Park. (I have learned that Panscheel Park is one of the top two places to live in Delhi, the other being the area where embassy people live. I knew this was a special area .... it's so nice here ....). We just can't get over the unbelievable coincidence ...
I visited him at his brother's house, and we went shopping together, and to a great Indian restaurant with his cousin Manu. It was so interesting to go shopping with Sanjay because we went to a silver jewellry wholesaler in Pahar Ganj -- and I took advantage of the amazing prices and bought a gorgeous silver and turquoise necklace and about six silver bracelets. In total I spent about the rupee equivalent of $80 -- but the necklace alone, with huge pieces of turquoise, would have cost me $400 in a store.
It was also the first time I saw Pahar Ganj, the main tourist, backpacker and wholesale bazaar in Old Delhi. This was one of the three places that was
Sanjay at work
Here he is, hard at work buying silver jewellry. bombed in October. More than 60 people died in the blasts. I only saw a part of it. The shop-lined streets snake along for kilometres, and while I saw lots of cows, beggars, unwashed hippies and bicycles, no cars are allowed.
Yesterday, I also got together with Rebecca, a really great girl from New Zealand whom I met at a beauty salon in December. She married an Indian man at the end of December and is now back in Delhi, after a honeymoon in Goa. We walked in the big park near here and went to a place called Mocha for lunch that has poutine on the menu! They explain in the menu that it's a Canadian dish and offer this pronunciation guide: FOO - tayn.
Today, I finally went to Lodi Gardens, which was one of the places I most wanted to visit in Delhi. It is a large, serene and gracious park, dotted with 15th century Mughal tombs, in states of picturesque ruin. I knew I was going to love Lodi Gardens, and I did. It is one of my favourite places in Delhi, a charming escape from crowds, traffic and noise. The weather here also
at Moti Mahal
Manu took this pic of me and Sanjay at Moti Mahal, a famous Indian restaurant. As usual I am berating him, this time hitting him with my scarf. helped make it a wonderful experience. The weather here is perfect. About 22-24 C. in the daytime, and a refreshing 10-14 C. at night. Not chilly, just balmy.
(I think that several scenes from Deepa Mehta's film Earth were filmed at Lodi Gardens. I love that movie and have a crush on one of the stars, Rahul Khanna, so I was looking for familiar spots ... and speaking of Bollywood stars, Ajay's brother went to a private, invitation-only press conference for Aamir Khan's new film, Rang de Basanti, which looks really interesting. Everyone in Panscheel Park seems to be about one degree away from Bollywood movie stars. Varada is going to Shah Rauk Khan's niece's birthday party tomorrow. I also have a crush on him but that's it. Just those two. Honest! Shah Rauk Khan is known as King Khan in India. He's a huge star, and justifiably, if you ask me! I was kept awake one of the first nights I was here, back in early December, by a wedding he was attending, just outside my bedroom window. I think it was his wife's sister's wedding ... hard to keep track ...)
I also stopped by Chinmaya
Rebecca and I
After a hairy taxi ride -- during which the taxi driver got lost twice -- Rebecca arrives at Panscheel Park. Mission which is on Lodi Road. Lodi Road is a beautiful, wide tree-lined road in the centre area of New Delhi. It houses many international groups, such as World Wildlife Federation and Unicef. Chinmaya Mission was started by Swami Chinmayanada to provide knowledge of Vedanta and Indian (especially Hindu) culture. I am interested because I am trying to read the Bhagavad Gita, and they have free courses on this book that is all-important to Hindus and serious yoga students.
And I also finally made my way to Khan Market, close by Lodi Road. Khan Market is famous for shops that cater to foreigners -- it's near the embassy district -- and I wanted to see what they had. I foud some great, though expensive, clothing stores, and small shops selling imported food. I bought rice crackers and cheese and it was REALLY EXPENSIVE. The crackers were double the cost in Toronto.
I am planning to do one entry with just pictures of people. The faces of India. One of these days. But in the meantime, I will end with a picture of some fishermen in Kerala, hauling in a big net. Ksenia and watched dozens of men haul
me at a five-star
Sanjay and I just stopped in to the Inter-continental, Nehru Place (formerly the Park Royal) for a moment ... this could be my only five star stay in India! this net in over the course of an hour, and couldn't believe it when we saw that the catch was just a handful of small fish. "It's not enough to make soup!" Ksenia said in her sublimely appropriate Russian accent. Only Russians are that good at dark humour. (Message to Ksenia: ha! I finally included your quote! P.S. I am so sorry to hear about how cold it is in Moscow. You must be wishing you were back on the beach in Kerala where it's +33, not -33!)
One of the most interesting things about being at Shinshiva Ayurvedic Ashram was the nearby traditional fishing village. When you look over the cliff from Shinshiva, you see a half-kilometre of palm tree tops below, leading to the beach. It is hard to believe that 10,000 people live amongst those palm trees, following a traditional lifestyle. At the risk of romanticising a difficult life, I found it somehow comforting to see people still living so close to nature. Most people in India (80%) still live in villages, and I hope I get the chance to experience village life here in India.
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chris
non-member comment
ah shucks
ah, sanjay... he looks sexy in these pictures! tell him he should call andrew and I when he returns to Canada and that i will stop by the store soon to say hi! You look like you are having a lot of fun (and radiant as usual!). I love the garden pictures... they are reminding me of the pictures of you in high park we took for your web site. You fit into any beautiful garden like a glove!