“A THRILLING EXPERIENCE WHICH WILL FILL YOUR SOUL COMPLETELY”

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I remember it when I started understanding the meaning of trekking, what it actually meant to me. Since that day I was waiting to conquer these forts, A.M.K. aka Alang, Madan and Kulang, the three terrific forts in the Sahyadri range. These forts are famous for its rugged surrounding, rock patches requiring technical climbing, confusing routes having exposure to deep valley and most important; testing once endurance and stamina. But the main problem was unfamiliarity with rock climbing, rope management techniques.So I had no option but to go with an experienced trekking group. One Panvel(Dist:Raigad) based group planned their AMK trek on 6th,7th,8th January 2017. I immediately enrolled with them accompanied by two of my friends Raj and Chinmayee. Backpacking bag with essential things like bedsheet, blanket, torch, eatables, water bottles, energy drinks, extra clothes etc. The group leaders Ameya, Gita and me headed towards Kalyan by Ameya’s car from Panvel, on 6th Jan evening. The plan was to reach Kasara by local. We reached to Kalyan at around 10.30PM and Kasara at 12.30 AM by train.The remaining group was expected to come by 3.00AM and after that all the group members headed towards Ambegaon by private vehicles. While on the road to ambegaon we took halt for some tea refreshments.

Our traxx loaded with backpacks

The weather was freaking cold so we had to almost cover ourselves as much as possible.To reach Alang,one have to go to Kasara or Igatpuri and then Ambevadi by the Igatpuri/Kasara-Ghoti-Pimpalnermor route. We can easily see Alang, Madan and Kulang from there. From Ambevadi, a way goes to the ridge between Alang and Madan, which may take up to 3 hours. From the ridge, the fort visible on the left is Alang, while the one on the right is Madan.
We reached at the base of the village by around 4am, where we unloaded our backpacks from the trax, where we had our introductory section for around half and hour and after that we started to ascend the trek with one of local guide called Eknath. By around 5am in the frosty and chilled night, in the light of moon and stars with torches supporting us, we were trying to figure out our way towards alang fort. First one and half hour patch was through the jungle, after covering these stretch, we reached at some point where almost the jungle part was finished and we started our initial stage of alang fort. This route passes through dense jungle.



At some points, there might be chances of missing the route. So if you are new to the forts, it is advisable to ask for guide.

First photo from the mountain base of the Alang fort at 7:30am

After dense forest we reached at the first rock patch where we all were stunned and anxious to cross it. There were two caves near to the first rock patch. One cave was having water pond. It had better drinking water than the one available on the Fort Alang. Also do carry water purification tablet with you to avoid any problems related with water.

Me trying free hand climb before hard rock patch

Our guide Eknath had already setted up the rope from the top of first patch so that we didnt have to waste our time. We dropped the bags at this point and were asked to carry small bags to fulfil our water requirement. One by one we started ascending the rock patch which was around 50 ft. After 4-5 participants, it was my turn to face this challenge. I dont know about the situation but I had already made up my mind ready for it. I just had to be confident about myself.

There was Suhas and Eknath on top of the patch who were holding the ropes and motivating the participants.So here I started my first patch where I put up harness around my waist and slowly started to settling on the patch.There were notches to help you out with the rope and after reaching halfway you don’t get any help from notches where the actual trouble starts. But I have one thing in mind that I have to be calm and I was just listening to Eknath and Suhas and the way they were giving me the instructions I just followed that and gave my body a momentum and on the next moment “I was done with the first, the most difficult patch of the Alang fort” and after landing up on the platform there was one small cave where we had to wait for other participants to come up. One by one everyone did well and from here again we had crossed the difficult part of steps with the help of rope which were exposed to deep valley.

First rock patch of 50 ft where you need technical supports.

After completing this patch we reached at the flat plateau of the Alang fort. Entrance structure of Fort Alang was totally destroyed. Once we reached to the machi area, we were amazed by seeing the expanse of the fort and the chiseled walls of the hill on which this fort is standing since many years. The shape of the Alang fort is similar to U shape. When you enter the fort, broken temple of Lord Shiva will welcome you. There are 6-7 small water tanks on the machi area.

You can see the two caves on the fort. One cave is not good for stay. Another cave is spacious and good option for stay on the fort. It can accommodate 30-40 trekkers. There is small tank adjacent to this cave. The water is not portable. To the west side of the fort, you can see Fort Madan and Kulang. The view of Madan is amazing from the far west end of Alang fort. Steps of Madan fort can be visible from this point. We started to explore the fort. We climbed the fort till highest point of the fort on east side. There are 11 water tanks constructed side by side. Many ruined structures can be seen on this plateau.

Water cisterns on top of the Alang fort.

After exploring the whole plateau we started descending to the place where we had kept our bags. On the way back we had to again rapple down the 70ft rock patch, but comparatively it was easier than rappling up. After finishing Alang at around 1:30pm we had our lunch, which we were carrying with us. After finishing our lunch we immediately headed up our way towards the Madan fort. Actually it is said that this forts can be done in the three days but our aim was to finish all the three of the forts in two days that’s why we were hurrying because there is no water on the way between Alang and Madan that’s why we had to Reach to the Madan and descend it down and start towards Kulang fort.

As per the plan we were late by around 1 hour. We started moving towards Madan fort and the whole route was exposed to the deep valley that’s why we had to be careful while keeping one one step .At last walking for around one and half hour we reached at the base of the Madan fort where the deadliest 40ft rock patch came where the rock patch was exposed to 150ft deep valley and from that patch we had to climb up.

Deadliest rock patch from Alang to Madan exposed to deep valley

Till the time we waited at the spot for everyone to come and our guide set up the rope on the patch and one by one we started to climb that patch. As compared to first patch this patch was small and easy but the task was that it was exposed to deep valley so we started motivating each other to cover it successfully.

As my turn came up I was thinking about being calm and slowly I put up my harness and hold the rope and slowly settling up on the mountain and with the help of rope and niches in the mountain it became very easy and I covered that patch within 2 minutes which was very surprising for me. After completing this patch when I reached on the flat plateau I was alone there so I didnt waited for anyone and instantly started moving towards the steps part which was the next challenge because again the steps were so small and exposed to valley which was becoming very scary and challenging but I managed to cover it within half and hour and reached at the flat plateau where other participants were drinking water from the water cisterns. I just let my body to relax on the land because since 4am we were continuously walking which was becoming very hectic for us. It was around 4:30pm by now and we just relaxed on the ground for 10-15 minutes. After that we started moving towards the highest point of the Madan fort where the flag was waving.

Massive view of Alang from Madan Top
As compared to Alang fort Madan fort has small plateau. It is said that the Alang is the most difficult to achieve.But except Alang fort rock patch nothing was much challenging for me,but Madan fort was bit tough. After reaching at the the top point of Madan fort we clicked group photos, had selfies and instantly started moving towards the rock patch because we had to rapple it down and though we were late because as per our schedule we had to ascend the Kulang fort and we were planning to set up the tents over Kulang which was our last fort. I was first to rapple down the the rock patch from the Madan fort and everyone was following me and Raj came behind me and we both started towards the same route from where we had came. We were supposed to meet where our trek leader Gita mam was making Maggie and chai for us. So within half and hour we reached to that point and just relaxed over there for 10-15 minutes till that everyone came down. Maggie were served by Gita mam and I almost had 3 plates of Maggie as I was so hungry. After that everyone had chai. Now we all were again feeling fresh and charged up. By now it was 5:30 and we were supposed to move towards the Kulang fort.

Amazing Kulang view from top of Madan

It was 5:45 when we started towards our way to the Kulang fort .Before starting our way to the Kulang fort our guide Eknath had warned us about the not to use of any kind of deodrant or do not try to smoke because on the route from Madan to Kulang there are alot of honey bees on the edge of the mountains so one has to care of that.And while moving on the route you have to keep watch on your steps also because the the soil is very loose and the route is exposed to deep valley on the left side.As I immediately started moving back from Eknath.As being a regular trekker Eknath was moving too fast and I was trying to match his pace and within half and hour we reached at the point where I looked at back and no one was behind me except Raj who was at a distance of 5-10 minutes and within a moment he joined me and Eknath.Eknath told me to wait for some minutes because he has to set up rope to the tree so that we all can land in the valley from where we will be reaching to the base of the Kulang fort.Only within half and hour he set up the rope and told Raj and me to climb down the valley.I was too excited to finish my last fort in the trio so the next moment I held the rope and told Raj to follow me and Eknath went back to call remaining participants.As Raj and me started moving down the valley.It was not that tough but there was alot of loose soil on the route that’s why it was becoming a bit tough.But it was really enjoyable patch as me and Raj finished it within 10 minutes and we both enjoyed it very much.By now it was getting dark and the time was around 6:45pm,we both waited down the valley for other participants to join us.As I took out my torch and tried to help others as they were descending down the valley,and it took around 1 hour for everyone to climb down the valley.Now we all where too tense because it was a dense jungle and we were glate by around 1 hour.So we immediately started moving ahead with the help of Eknath.Now again the route was tough with the loose rocks and soils which was making it bit difficult too climb up.Because it was too dark which directly affected our speed and it took almost 2 hours.Now again at one point we had to set up the rope to descend down two patches from where we will be reaching at the steps part which were directly leading us to the top of the Kulang fort.We all did the rappelling down part as fast as possible because now it was becoming too late to reach on the top.It was around 9pm and we were getting late.
We all started ascending the Kulang fort steps.This time I was not leading much in the trek but I was in between but now I was loosing my patience because I was too hungry and we had Maggie long back.So I was strongly wishing to finish these trek as fast as possible.It was around 10pm and I increased my pace on the steps.The important thing was we were crossing this steps at nigh in the dark and the steps were exposed to the valley on the left side,so we were supposed to climb up carefully.As I was alone and much ahead from othe participants.And it was very dark on the dangerous steps so I was little anxious about situation.And god knows from nowhere Eknath came following me with the wood he was carrying,which we will be requiring to cook our food on top of Kulang.Now I was happy that I wasn’t alone now.I was very much impressed wit Eknath that the way he was easily climbing up the steps with all the wood he were carrying.So by looking at him I tried to match his pace and within 1 hour we almost reached at main entrance gate of the fort and I gave sigh of relief because we were continuously walking for around last 19 hours.Eknath fastly move towards the cave where he joined other guides who were cooking food for other group in the cave.Till then only me who were atop of Kulang,so I just explored the area where we were setting up our tents.One by one our all of the participants reached on top and everyone just started to settle down on the ground because by now everyone was exhausted.Our leaders told us to get fresh without wasting time because it was 11pm by now.So everyone started moving towards the water kunds which was situated at 5 minutes distance.I took the water in bottle to wash my face.As I poured water on my hand it was freaking cold to the hands and the instantly face started feeling numb.It took some moment for me to recover from such chilled water.By now we all were covered ourselves in warm clothes.We got a call from our guide Eknath that our dinner was ready so all proceed towards the cave because everyone wants to finish food and wished to have some good sleep.Me and some participants from our group settle down near campfire and had pulav,papad and pickle in the warmth of campfire and the feeling was amazing.Without wasting time everyone had food within a moments and move towards setting up the tents,because now no one had left with any kind of energy,everyone was tired.Four tents got set up and me and other 4 participants slept in one tent.Weather was very cold outside.Its better if you carry good number of warm clothes and sleeping bag in such weather conditions.We all were told to wake up at 6:30 for sunrise view.
Day 2

Our tents

We got wake up call at 7am in the morning and one by one everyone started to come out from there tents.It was very cold outside to I preferred to came out with my chaddar.The view from Kulang fort was very fascinating because we had ascended the Kulang in the night that’s why we were unknown to these views but now in the morning all treasure were in front of our eyes.Slowly the rays started coming from back of mountain and all were ready with there cameras to capture such precious moment from Kulang top.And as sun started coming up that feeling was very good because everyone was suffered from freaky chilled night.Everyone enjoyed the sunrise moment.After that we all were hungry so we started moving towards the water kund to get freshen up and fastly proceeded towards our breakfast and tea which was made by our guides.There was pithal,chapathi and garlic chutney for the breakfast which was really very tasty.

It’s Breakfast time
We all had a very good breakfast and we all were carrying the same breakfast for the lunch also.Everyone was feeling very refreshed than yesterday because everyone has got some time to relax.After finishing our breakfast we started to explore the Kulang fort area where we had our group photos,selfies and had alot of fun and healthy interactions.

Group photo

From right Me,Chinmayee and Raj with our guides without them we wouldn’t be able to reach home alive(Eknath in the red hood with stylish pose were my favourite.)

After finishing exploration part we proceeded towards cave where our bags were kept and everyone got there bags on shoulders and our guides instructed to start descending the fort because we all had target to reach base village which is Kurungwadi by 1pm.The route was same from where we ascended the night before and now the views were stunning because we climbed that patch in the night.In the presence of such mindblowing scenarios we were enjoying our descending journey.Somewhere in my mind I had a very good feeling of finally achieving this tremendous forts in two days and it was gonna be finish in sometime.Somewhere in around 4 hours and in between taking some short short breaks we reached at the base village where the tar road was passing from adjoining that village.We all settled down on the porch of one of the village house where we had our lunch which we were carrying from Kulang fort.Everyone was very happy with the thought of conquering the great AMK after such exhausting two days trails.
By then our jeeps where arrived which will be taking us to the Kasara railway station and from here withing 45 minutes we reached at Kasara station from where everyone got tickets as there convenience and our return journey from Kasara started and in the train everyone was sharing the clicks from our last two days amazing expedition.
AMK trek is certainly one of the challenging trek in Sahyadri. Even if you are novice in climbing, still you can manage this trek on your own. Just the task is to reach Ambewadi or Samrad. There are few skilled climbers from the village who usually arrange for technical help, cooking and other required thing. If you have prior experience of trekking then you should directly try to manage these treks with the help of local people. I have contact number of one of such guide. “Overall it was satisfying experience to climb these three forts“! Worth doing it !

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