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Published: February 5th 2008
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Namaste!
Ive just had a cold shower, and trotted off down the marg (street). Its quite warm outside so I feel nice and fuzzy with a belly full of curry.
The last few days have been something of a bewildering experience, but I feel alot better for it. Where shall i start?
Felt completely lost after the first blog. Wasn't in the best mood and I think jumping straight into the madness of Mumbai without a shred of experience, a timid consititution and no support was always going to be difficult. The most enjoyable part of the journey thus far had been the cheesy bollywood flick I saw on the plane. I found leaving the hotel a little intimidating, especially since I hadn't seen another westerner since the airport. I didn't really want to spend the next three days getting depressed watching Om Shanti Om on the hotel tellybox, so I ventured out nonetheless.
I found going out and about a very uncomfortable experience. Feels like everyone is watching me, especially since there are very few touristy types in my area. Not that I look like the average tourist (I'm wearing shirts and trousers like the locals) but
my ethnic heritage makes me something of a racial ambiguity. Plus my hair is quite long. Didn't like being approached, something that seems to be happening quite often. Streets are noisy, dirty and people invade your personal space-bubble without really thinking twice. Could really do with a sense of humour, which I seem to have lost.
Worse than simply feeling paranoid, however is the poverty. Awful seeing kids of all people lying around in the dirt covered in rags. I'm no where near the slums either so this is only a glimpse of how bad it really is. I find it very difficult to deal with beggars and especially those who approach you with children. Not sure how to react at all. My usual western response to pestering is just a quick shake of the head and quickly going on my way. This simply doesn't work when someone comes up to you cradling a small child and begging for alms. Yesterday it happened and I practically ignored them, mainly as an overreaction- and following through the advice that you have to be firm with people. I felt awful afterwards, but not sure really what else to do.
Today was a much better day. Made friends with Nepalese boy, Gopal, who works as a hotel cleaner. His grasp of english isn't great but we get by through charades. He gestured a drinking motion while saying 'bir, bir' so I agreed to do so when I came back in the evening.
Explored the city. Had an incredible bhaji (in a bun!) by the roadside and munched it down with glee while doing the typical headless chicken dance across the street. I think I'm getting pretty good at this now! Requires a certain amount of balls, recklessness and a suicidal streak. Must have walked several miles today and saw a much different Mumbai than i have so far.
The leafy sections of the city are beautiful, with amazingly varied architecture- old style victorian buildings mixed with oddball modern styles. The most enchanting buildings I passed were the downtown residential areas, sort of asiatic council flats. It didn't feel right pointing my camera at these places filled with poor, disadvantaged kids playing in the centre... like some snap happy tourist. Obviously people living there aren't terribly well off, but it is certainly still a colourful and vibrant place.
On trying to find my way back home from Cobala, after being stalked by street vendors and adolescent wastrels looking for money (a little unsettling), i got a bit lost and stopped to flick through my guidebook. It was here I got quickly introduced to a tubby Bombay businessman called
Ralph. Oh my.
Ralph had just finished work and was incredibly keen on showing me around Bombay on a whirlwind tour. Had my alarm bells jangling of course because every other over friendly person to approach me hitherto certainly had ulterior motives. Then again, this guy was obviously not a street urchin or merchant, well dressed, sizeable beer belly, tie, clip... I just went with it, the Indian people are just friendly (aren't they?).
Ralph is a quite a character. Who else simply picks up random strangers for a spot of tourism after work? Had a very brute force manner, didn't seem to care for my interjections or questions and sometimes ignored me altogether! Had a nasty feeling at the back of my mind I was being groomed...
Was whisked around by cab to at least 5 different tourist hotspots. Ralph didn't tell me anything about these sites or stop
to let me look around, all he cared about was taking photos.
During the taxi ride, a very sad sight. Young boy of about 5 holding a tiny young girl came and tapped on my taxi window. Ralph made a point of not giving them any money and said to ignore them as they were getting plenty of money and were not as poor as they looked. Got the impression Ralph is 90% bullshit though. It was a sobering sight to see such young kids wandering around on Mumbai's treacherous roads.
He didn't ask me about myself, but he made sure to point out every 5 star hotel we passed like they were the reason he lived (very good lobster!!). Also the man has no qualms with leering at passing women (Hi girls!!). Didn't like it when I pointed the camera at him, but he liked taking them of me (hm).
Never mind I thought, I'm getting a free tour of Mumbai- half correct. When the incredibly long taxi ride was finished he seemed to be expecting me to pay for it! (is this guy a sugar daddy or what?) Naturally wasn't totally happy and suggested we split the cost.
My 'best friend' Ralph
Love the vest beneath the shirt. Sexy Still ended paying 800 rupees, expensive by Indian standards! I also ended up paying for a couple of pricey mango smoothies and half a pitcher of beer. Liberties. I made sure to drink as much as possible, didn't want him getting drunk!
By the time he let me go I was on my last legs and completely rinsed of cash. Pleased to be rid of that boorish man, but at least he was friendly. Had a little chuckle on the way home as to how ridiculous the whole thing had been. He's a businessman, obviously doing well for himself, but didn't look happy on paying for anything!
Unfortunately that baboon caused me to miss Gopal in the evening. Would have been a nice birthday drink.
Feel alot more comfortable and a little cheeky after seeing Ralph. Despite being a buffoon, he at least gave me back my much-needed sense of humour back and I had no inhibitions about going out and getting a meal that evening.
Dreaming of getting down south!
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Owen
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ahh, happy (if belated birthday Kim.. good to see your having fun! and you thought Dour had a bad smell...