Dharavi Slum (Mumbai)

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(Matt)

A few days before returning to Mumbai we found out about Reality Tours and Travel. They organise ethical and sensitive tours of the Dharavi Slum, the biggest slum in Asia (1 million inhabitants in 1.7 sq km). Eighty percent of our fee went to a charity helping to improve conditions and the tour only visited people who were happy with small groups to be there.

We started the day in the most stressful way possible by getting a local train to Mahim station about 25 minutes outside Mumbai (if you've seen the programme think Bombay Railway, if not think of a packed commuter train with no doors and people hanging out). We had to meet a man in a grey or blue polo shirt who would be standing next to the third pillar by the ticket booth. If that doesn't sound dodgy, I don't know what does! We knew we were in the right place when we spotted three Australian/Kiwi girls who were also on the tour. Incidently, on the tour, one of them had a goat clamp onto her t=shirt and not let go (animal attack number two !).

We signed our disclaimer that we wouldn't hold the company responsible in the event of our death or injury, scary, and so with some trepidation we set off.

We spent the next few hours with our guide walking through narrow rock and rubbish strewn streets (with open drains) surrounded by the noise of heavy machinery and of workers: hammering, clattering and shouting to each other.

There were no doors anywhere, only nooks, crannies and semi dark rooms. The overall atmosphere was a cross between medieval times and Dickens. Small slightly grubby children (I'm tempted to say 'street urchins', is that allowed?) weaved in and out of the workers and through the maze of passageways.

During the morning we visited: the recycling sector, climbed high onto a roof to view the whole area, visited the residential quarter where both Catherine and myself had to walk bent over to avoid the unprotected cables overhead and where the buildings were leaning so much in places they touched at the top. Finally we visited a primary school where about 50 children jumped around us and scrambled to shake our hands. We learnt so much about the issues of the people who live there and the amazing ways they are attempting to improve their lot in life.

The tour was thought provoking and surprisingly positive. The humour and goodwill of the people who live in the slum makes their plight even more moving. It is an experience that will stay with us for a long time.

We were not permitted to take photographs while we were there, which is a good thing, so the ones here are provided by and used with kind permission from Reality Tours and Travel.

A tour of a slum can be a controversial issue, we researched a lot and thought long and hard about going on this tour. If you have questions or want to know more, feel free to email us at [e-mail], or visit:http://realitytoursandtravel.com/

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Comments

[kali-mantra]

thanks!
i'm heading to india in spring 2008 & really appreciate your information on reality tours. keep up the informative blog - i hope you don't mind me lurking about, but your blog is enjoyable... have a nice trip! -canada