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Published: February 4th 2007
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We started this in Mumbai...
Well folks - this is the last one!! We've got 2 days to go and to be honest we can't wait to get home and see you all again.
India has got a rather raw deal at the end of this trip. We had planned to stay for at least 6 weeks but other places were soooo exciting we spent much more time than we had expected there. So we've spent three weeks trying to get to grips with small areas of this massive country.
We started in Amritsar - a hit! Here the Sikhs did a fantastic job of looking after us. We stayed in the Golden Temple, the Sikh's holiest sight. They housed us and fed us free of charge as well as allowing us to observe their acts of devotion. The buildings themselves were beautiful and the Sikhs very friendly.
Next stop was Kashmir. We took an 8 hour jeep ride which twisted and turned, often at altitude, to Srinagar, the Summer capital of the isolated state of Kashmir. our reason for visiting this turbulent and sometimes insecure place was to retrace the steps of Carrie's grandfather who was
here during the war. After a short ride in a Shikara (boat taxi) we found our way to Mascot Houseboat, one of the many houseboats moored on the lakes of Srinagar. We had been recommended this place by a friend and it was a real find. The luxurious houseboat that included 4 double bedrooms, formal and informal dining areas and spectacular lounge and roof top sunbathing area was ours and it was all done in traditional British splendour. We initially felt a bit like squatters but soon got used to it, apart from when we were called Sahib and Memsahib!!!
The lake was stunningly beautiful set against the snow capped western Himalayas. Our plan was to take it easy and that we did. The temperatrures at night dropped considerably leaving us huddled around the brazier in blankets embracing hot water bottles. The family who owned the boat looked after us exceptionally well, b ringing us fantastic Kashmiri food. They also educated us in the history of Kashmir and of the evolution of houseboats in the area.
We planned to do some walking in the hills surrounding the lakes but the snow came and closed off much of the
region so we confined ourselves to Srinagar and our boat. Kashmir within India is synonimous with paradise and we now understand why. While it is beautiful and well worth the trip the overwhelming presence of the military makes the lives of everyday Kashmiris and the visiting tourist difficult. The war over Kasmir is one of the most expensive and costly in terms of lives of any in the world and the solutions seem as distant as ever. A real shame.
From here we travelled down to Delhi - with some apprehension of coming face to face with the real India. The traffic, noise, filth and poverty were a bit of wake up call but nothing compared to the the craziness of a Sikh procession in full flow for that is what greeted us on our arrival. The Sikhs are known to their fellow Indians for being a bit lively!! Their procession which lasted all day and most of the night invoved brass bands, dancing, free food, sword fighting, fire swinging and lots and lots of beturbaned men with great beards and very sharp spears all having a ball!!
Delhi was busy but not overwhelming as we had feared.
We enjoyed the chaos of the bazaars and the calm of the Moghal architecture. We ate well, did some shopping, and appreciated the efforts of the British with regards to town planning. We have been struck by the warmth and recognition for what the British did in India, a sentiment that we weren't expecting after all the literature we had read.
From Delhi we went to Agra, to meet up with our friends Jess and Dave and of course to visit the Taj Mahal. All looked great! We got up to see sunrise over the Taj Mahal, the monument to enduring love and it was as lovely as everyone says. It was also a great place to sit and catch up with our friends.
From Agra, we took a late overnight train to Jodhpur in Rajasthan. After getting over the dismay of not finding the population bedecked in riding trousers we explored the old city (inexplicably all blue) and the Mehranghar fort. As slightly jaded and tired tourists we spent lots of our time collapsed on roof top terraces supping lassis and reading. Jodpur has a colourful array of turbans and saris and some fine examples of the
famous Rajasthan moustache - all in all quite a fun place. The owner of our guesthouse perusadedus to come into her college for the day where we were the star attraction for. We talked to loads of enthusiastic students and at the end of the day were presented with grand trophies!!
Next and penultimate stop was Udaipur. This was the setting for the 1983 Bond film Octopussy and still seems to be hanging onto this dubious claim to fame. The city is set on a lake with the most expensive and luxurious accommodation located on islands. You could, should you wish to, spend $1300 a night on a room!! With our energy fading fast, we pottered around the town, took a look at the City Palace and invested in some Indian cooking equipment.
Last stop on the trip - Mumbai. We arrived here yesterday and went to an afternoon showing of Dhoom 2 - one of the latest Bollywood movies. It still surprsies us that in the middle of semi-serious films, concerned with robberies or murder that the cast can suddenly break into an all-singing, all-dancing rountine. It was great fun.
Now, safely back in Bristol, back
A man and his horn at a Sikh festival
The Sikhs appeared to have come out to greet us on our arrival in Delhi in our old house, we have had a bit of time to relfect on our trip and indeed our journey.
We have travelled through 3 continents, been to 22 countries (we count Taiwan), seen some of the worlds highest mountains, driest deserts, biggest and highest lakes, most active volcanoes, largest waterfalls, biggest, dirtiest and most beautfiul cities, smallest and most untouched villages, experienced great cultures and seen others fast disappearing. We have been under the water, in the snow, on the ice, through the steppe, grasslands and pampa. We have eaten the best, the worst and the best not mentioned (although dave probably will!). We have been in the biggest party on earth, and felt pushed to the limits. We have been in war zones and serene spiritual tranquility. We have met gurus, sadhus, monks, Mujaheddin and Taliban, minority tribes people, mountain people, horsemen, dancers, political activists, brides and grooms, gunmakers, nomads, refugees, wrestlers, shoemakers and candlestick makers. We have passed through some of the highest passes in the world and experienced temperatures from 46 degrees above to -12 below. We have rediscovered the joys of a simple life where only food water and shelter matter. We have experienced
theft, fraud and corruption. We have used planes, trains, ferries, canoes, tuk-tuks, autorickshaws, taxis, elephants, bicycles, boats, milk lorries, donkeys and carts.
We are richer for all of these. Everywhere we have been we have been treated with great kindness and it's the people we have met - both locals and fellow travellers - who have made this such a special experience.
This trip has been a life long dream achieved and we have loved the time to evaluate our lives and the world around us. We have had time to think about what we want to achieve, with the advantage of distance and have returned determined to make good on the decisions we have taken. We have loved having this time together but are really looking forward to being back with everyone.
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