"Sure Swift Fighters"


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September 12th 2006
Published: September 18th 2006
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2006………6wks-4th CYCLING TRIP-Gujarat & Southern Rajasthan, INDIA...........
Coming into Aurangabad you go through a Military Zone with a prominant billboard that says "Thankyou for your visit to the green lungs of Auranganabad" You culd be confused in thinking that it refers to the pollution-free green lush nature of the city that is actually highly polluted and choked with vehicles. No, it refers to the military who show a strong presence here, particularly as a result of the bombing near here last week. The photo on the billboard was not of a lovely greeny scene, no it was of a group of soldiers firing some mortor shells. A sign by the guard box says "Sure Swift Fighters".

Actually I very nearly got myself in a bit of bother- never muck with the Military. They have guns! They aren't usually chosen for their intellect- Who wants to kill and be killed? I innocently stopped on my way cycling out to Daulatabad Fortress to take a photo. Not a good idea in a military zone where 38 people have died nearby from a bombing last week. They promptly blew whistles, which I made out I didn't hear and rode off. Unfortunately they got in an autorickshaw and caught up with me and demanded the camera. With a bit of adament insistence that I would delete the photo, which I did for them so they could see it, I thought that would be enough. One was more pushy that the other and wanted the camera and me to go with them. No way! I insisted that they look at all the other photos, it's no way to treat a tourist etc. The nicer one convinced the other one and off I rode. I got a photo of the billboard coming back into town which was outside the military zone!

It has been my experience that people here are generally very honest, friendly and generous and for such a diverse and complex democracy with overcrowding, poverty and wealth they have learnt to get along through cooperation. You see it in everyday actions. Also it has been pointed out 4 times that I have dropped something: a water bottle, a note or even money.

The roads in the towns/cities are unbelievably crowded, polluted and congested making cycling both a challenge and unpleasant. It is such a relief after getting out of a place to
Blow Horn PleaseBlow Horn PleaseBlow Horn Please

Actually they are pretty constrained despite the encouragement on every truck
ride in rural India which appears that time has stood still, like out of a filmset. It has been hot but mainly humid riding and I quickly get soaked and have to ensure I drink plenty of water.

The Daulatabad Fortress is impressive and dates back to 1435. Daulatabad means 'City of Fortune' but it was hardly that as it proved untenable for the population of Delhi which moved here in its entireity by marching 1100km to populate it They returned only a few years later. The fortification is pretty thorough with studded doors to prevent elephant charges, two moats, dark trechous tunnels that mislead invaders to their death by falling great heights or from boiling water. Unfortunately it was the old corruption that weakened its protection, through bribing the guards. It was memorable being right up the top of the hill in the fortress with its commanding views of the battlements below and clouds rolling thickly over and down the nearby hills as the monsoonal lighting and thunder, followed by rain set in for its hour in the afternoon.

I tend to get adopted a bit by someone where ever I go and at the fortress it
Truck ArtworkTruck ArtworkTruck Artwork

Most trucks have this form of artwork. I've nly seen one rollover so far.
was a young group of affluent, intelligent men, particularly one nice lad, Prashant, who wanted his photo with me. He gave me a lucky coin. They waved me off from the fortress to only stop me down the road, first to offer me a lift and then again to offer me lunch which I did accept. I did ride back though. I need the exercise.

After calling in at a UNICEF school on the way back to Aurangabad I spent some time wandering around the 'Bibi-Ka-Maqbara', known affectionately as the 'Poor man's Taj Mahal'. It is uncannily like the Taj in style but not as large or fine but certainly impressive non the less. It was built in 1679 as a mausoleum for Auranaga's wife.




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'Bibi-Ka-Maqbara', Aurangabad'Bibi-Ka-Maqbara', Aurangabad
'Bibi-Ka-Maqbara', Aurangabad

The so called 'Poor Man's Taj Mahal'. This family kindly posed for me.


19th September 2006

Those pesky elephants
I like the idea of a studded door. You never know when an elephant might charge.Dwain(the goldfish), is ready to get the kero out for the next part of his new act for next years royal show. If the canon girl got the gig,Dwain thinks he is on a winner with " The Ring of Fire" Man,don't challenge the authorities-they have guns,and I would like to see you home at some time. Your` trying to relax`partner James..
19th September 2006

Travel plans
Hi there Peter, Great to hear of your adventures! The pictures are just great. I have been to another agent re a trip for me at Christmas time. She has been incredibly helpful. Now I am looking at trekking in Nepal. We'll see what transpires! I had better get walking and back to the gym now and then. Bet you were cheesed about your bike! I am glad someone could partly fix it for you and that you can at least ride it! Take care and please stay away from the Military! Cheers Kath x

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