Amazing tiger sightings before Mumbai mayhem...

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27 Nov - our final early morning game drive and 2 elephant rides in Kanha! Can't see very well on the first ride to take photos but the second ride is fantastic and our best sighting. We're in the heart of the jungle, riding an elephant with Ginny and Liam and watch a tiger sleeping peacefully. Marc and John then arrive on another elephant waking up the tiger and then our elephant gets a bit too close resulting in a huge growl, captured perfectly on camera by Liam. Just as we're getting back into the jeep to head back to the park entrance a tiger walks onto the road, right in front of the jeeps!!! Several jeeps follow him for 10 minutes, he is completely unperturbed by the vehicles, humans and cameras, an amazing sight.

When we return to the resort at lunchtime, the full scale of the Mumbai terrorist attacks becomes apparent via texts from home. There have been various bomb blasts in 5 star hotels (the Taj and Oberoi) as well as the train station we're supposed to be travelling to the next day!

None of the group are happy with GAP's suggestion that we still head to Mumbai. I phone mum and dad to let them know I'm ok and to check the FCO's advice (no internet connection at Kanha!). Only essential travel to Mumbai is recommended and Westerners should stay indoors and keep their passports on them at all times, eek. Also phone Gel for a girlie chat before letting the day's events sink in and unwinding with Liam and yet another bottle of Old Monk rum.

28 Nov - GAP have another suggestion regarding the rest of our trip which still has 2 days to go as we're unable and unwilling to go to Mumbai. A 6 hour drive to Nagpur is proposed and then we can fly to Delhi and either catch flights home or GAP will find us accomodation. We're all happy with this and drive to Nagpur. However, when we get to Nagpur Airport, which is deserted except for a large army prescence (!) we find out that most flights are now either cancelled or full. The only flight available is to Kolkata (Calcutta) with the option to then fly on to Delhi or Mumbai. Reluctant to cut our trip short, Liam and I make a split-second decision to catch the flight to Kolkata but to stay there a few nights, take breath, explore a new city we never expected to visit, see how the hostage situation in Mumbai progresses and have some R&R time together. I also need to wait for a reply from GAP regarding whether my Mumbai to Goa trip, due to commence on 30 Nov, will be going ahead.

We quickly arrange our flight to Kolkata and start frantically scanning the Lonely Planet to find somewhere to stay that night...it's 5pm at this point! Flight is fine, just a few hours, and we say our farewells at Kolkata airport to the rest of the group who are heading onwards. A very strange and abrupt way to end a tour!! Also say my farewells to Bhupindra but pretty certain I'll see him again, either on the Mumbai to Goa trip or the Delhi to Kathmandu trip, both of which he is due to lead.

We organise a pre-paid taxi then hit the mad streets of Kolkata...we thought we were used to Indian driving...the country where you need a good horn, good brakes and good luck...but the madness and road rage of Kolkata driving completely throws us. It's been an extremely long day of travelling, mixed emotions and neither of us can quite believe we've both ended up in this legendary city, together, away from the group. Thankfully, the first hotel (think British Colonial!) we try has a room available and we are able to check in and collapse into bed by 10pm. A truly unforgettable day...

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