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Published: March 4th 2008
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Blog seriously overdue! The last few weeks I have been enjoying the delights of the southern state of Kerala. It is my favourite part of India to date, the scenery is the most beautiful I've seen, the Keralans by nature are very friendly people and I feel quite safe and comfortable here.
Feb 19th I arrived into Cochin- An ex-colonial trading port which was throughout history occupied by the Portugese, Dutch and British. As such it has an interesting history and rather alot of western architecture which can make you feel like you're not in India!
I'm alone again and it feels liberating to be solo once more. However it wasn't long before I was befriended by the locals. Upon my arrival, a pint-sized fellow named Yoonas made random conversation with me whilst ambling alongside. I ended up spending the majority of the next 3 days with him! Funny how alot of the people I meet appear to have no apparent job or daily obligations. Yoonas is a part time yoga teacher, though I don't think he's making any money this way. He offered to teach me some yoga during my stay so I decided to give it a
go.
Wasn't really sure what to expect (it's just stretching, breathing, and Enya right?) I met him for an hour long session and ended up feeling slightly crippled. Is it supposed to be this painful? I got contorted into some positions I didn't know I was capable of. Having no mat, I had to do it all on the hard marble floor of the hotel.
Unfortunately Yoonas' grasp of English wasn't quite good enough for him to understand "I DON'T BEND THAT WAY!!".
And to add insult to injury, no Enya. 😞
Shaking off my passing resentment for Yoonas for the near demise of my spine, we strengthened our relationship over beers and I left Cochin having made a new friend.
Taking to the delightful roads once more, I bussed my way Southwards to the backwater hub of Alleppey, the base for Kerala's main attraction; a unique network of natural waterways and canals set amongst the lush tropical lowlands, known as the backwaters.
I found myself a congenial family guesthouse with some pretty laid back owners! Was a really good stay although I tried my best to ignore the nest of pubic hairs that the previous occupant had
Yoonas the Yogameister
Made from rubber it seems pasted to my bathroom wall.
Within a couple of days I had booked my backwater boat trip and set out with great anticipation! Heading out from the typical claustrophobic headache of the town I witnessed the pleasing transition from the gloomy grey of asphalt to the lush green of paddy fields. Getting right out of the town the bus dropped off my guide and I next to a calm river (along with a gaggle of raucous schoolkids). It was like being a completely different country from the town, so very placid and quiet- except for the kids of course! We traversed the river by flimsy 'ferry' - more like a canoe, and as I sat down awkwardly on the boat's floor, I noticed I was sitting beneath the waterline, from which there was about an inch of clearance to the side of the boat. It was really fun!
Anyway. I got to meet my guide and his silent wife when we reached his house in the heart of the village. It's worth noting that this is a proper country village, life is extremely simple here as I realised as I was shown around his humble home. In his garden
The seafront at Cochin
Lined with giant mechanical fishing nets were some emaciated and mangy kittens, about 5 different varieties of chilly plant and some chickens and ducks cooped up in tiny hutches. Not wanting him to slaughter anything for my sake, I said I was veggie when he asked!
We began the boat trip about 10. As it turned out, the boat was no more than a simple canoe and I would be expected to help paddle. He insisted that I wear a ridiculous rainbow coloured umbrella hat (see photos), and I began the trip feeling a little conspicuous. Despite his reassurances, I doubt it was really traditional local head wear.
But my fashion-worries soon left me as I got stuck into the voyage. Passing through the village canals is like taking a sneak peek into these people's daily lives and unique culture. On the banks of the water were burly men carrying improbable amounts of coconuts, people fishing, sleepy dogs snoozing, women washing saris... With every 20 metre stretch there was something new to see, and everyone was curious and interested to see me! I got a lot of intrigued stares, but unlike before where it had been cold, here it was usually accompanied by a
Ridiculous rainbow parasol hat
The highest item of river-wear vogue warm smile. Said hello to everyone.
We stopped for some 'toddy', which is coconut beer. It is a local specialty and the locals live off it. My guide made me buy a big bottle and he and a gathering of passers by stopped to see what I made of it. To be truthful it tasted a bit like warm sour egg, but with 10 intrigued locals hanging off every facial twinge and reactive murmur, I gave my best scripted 'mmmmm!'. The same performance was repeated at lunch time!
I got a bit of socialising done with my guide, named Kunjachan when we stopped for a little rest. Along with the other simple village folk, he isn't too in tune with modern culture and found my appearance perplexing. Apparently a few people in the village couldn't tell if I was a man or a woman (!) due to my long hair, and Kunjachan found great fun in this subject. I think I may have let my guard down a little too much as he took liberties in mock-manhandling me whilst trying to kiss me and putting flowers in my hair- "You look like a girl!! Such a pretty girl!!".
This was vaguely amusing at first, but after the fifth or sixth time his advances extended to nipple twiddling and I told him forcibly in similar words that, yes, I got the message!
Though feeling a little emasculated and sexually harassed by this toothy old man, I didn't want this to spoil what had been a great day, so I proceeded gaily with the trip. Though from this point I found myself summoning my deepest baritone and stuffing my hair into my cap.
Come the end of the trip I was exhausted (it was pretty hard work!) and eager to get back to civilization with the rest of the androgynes. I thanked Mr and Mrs Kunjachan for their hospitality and was relieved to be let go (it had been arranged for me to spend the next day at his home, but I don't think I could have took another day!)
The hospitality I was shown was incredible. Being taken into this family's home, I was fed hearty amounts of great food (local fish was the best I've had) and treated (as he insisted I was so many times) like his son. Such a willingness to be so open
touched me, however there were times where I felt totally uncomfortable. Uncomfortable with being treated like a close member of the family by these people I had never met before, whose way of life I know little of.
Sorry for long blog!
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hari
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hiii .. i am from kerala .... you got the real pictures of kerala