Mysore, Karnataka, India 26 & 27 September 2017

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Day 9: Hassan—Mysore 26 September 2017







After breakfast, we drove to Mysore (130 km/ 3.5 hrs approx). Mysore was the political capital of the Wodeyar dynasty which ruled the state of Karnataka for some 150 years till the independence of the country from the British. These kings were great patrons of art and culture and Mysore was the cultural capital of the south under the rule of the Wodeyars. Mysore still carries on its placid shoulders the aura and glamour of palaces, the grandeur of festivals of times gone by, but all of it with a quiet, unhurried dignity. It is often called the Jewel of Karnataka - its arts, culture, buildings, festivals, gardens and parks being the quintessence of the state’s heritage.







We were dropped off to our hotel (where we were upgraded to a large suite) for lunch thn as we weren’t being picked up until 4.30pm, Tom & I decided to go for a walk into the city centre. We were very close to the centre and soon found the 2 central round abouts. The city was in the middle of a biggest Festival the city has, where all the streets and buildings compete to have the best display of lights. We were really looking forward to seeing them all lite up that night.







We noted how busy the city was (no surprise!) and it didn’t take us long to get our bearings and see the street stall festivities being established read for the evening. We walked to the Mysore Palace but didn’t go in as our guide was taking us there later.







We met our new guide then headed out for a walking tour of Mysore markets. The 125-year old market with more than 700 stalls definitely held our interest for its vibrancy and colours. we also got to discover Mysore’s specialties ranging from sweets, flowers, fruits to natural incense and a variety more. It was magic walking through all the narrow lanes and intercting with the merchants. The colours were spectacular.







Our aim was to go to the Mysore Palace before 7.00pm when the 100,000 lights on the buildings and walls around the Palace and the Temples, are switched on. At about 6.00pm the heavens opened up, just as we were watching the cultural entertainment in the city square. Tom & I had our umbrellas but the others had to find a merchant to buy theirs. We took shelter in a shop for about 20 minutes, buying some chips to munch on whilst we waited for the storm to pass. It did!!!! We then made our way to the Palace.







As soon as we got there in the dark, our guide hurried us closer to the main building as the Royal elephants were being brought out for the public to see. It was so exciting. There was also a camel and severall horses. The elephants were heavily decorated and performed for the crowd.







At exactly 7.00pm we watched the lights of the Palace, Temples, fences, gates and all other buildings lit up. It was the most amazing thing we have seen, and we have seen many lit up buildings throughout the world. As we turned around 360 degrees, there were lit up buildings surrounding us. It gave us shivers as we gazed all around us. The camera was clicking rapidly!!!! I hope you enjoy the photos. I loved taking them.







We dragged ourselves away from the Palace, catching a tuk tuk with our guide. On the way back to our hotel we saw all the streets which were heavily lit. It was extrodinary.







Back at our hotel, we changed our wet shoes and had a lovely dinner while we reflected on what we had seen that night. We were looking forward to seeing the Palace the next day during day-light as well as going inside.







A bit about Mysore:



Mysore, officially renamed as Mysuru, is the second most populous and the third largest city after Bangalore and Hubli-Dharwad in the state of Karnataka. Located in the foothills of the Chamundi Hills about 146 km southwest of the state capital Bangalore, it is spread across an area of 128.42 km². According to our guide, the population is approximately 1 million.



Mysore served as the capital city of the Kingdon of Mysore for nearly six centuries, from 1399 until 1956. The Kingdom was ruled by the Wadiyar dynasty, with a brief period of interregnum in the 1860s and 70s when Hyder Ali and Tipu Sultan were in power. Patrons of art and culture, the Wodeyars contributed significantly to the cultural growth of the city and the state. The cultural ambiance and achievements of Mysore earned it the sobriquet Cultural Capital of Karnataka.



Mysore is noted for its heritage structures and palaces, and for the festivities that take place during the Dasara festival when the city receives a large number of tourists from across the world. We were so lucky to be experiencing this festival.



Tourism is the major industry alongside the traditional industries. Mysore's inter-city public transportation solely includes rail and bus; flights, however, turn active during the peak time of the Dasara. Cricket and lawn tennis are the most popular sports in the city.



WikiMiniAtlas



Mysore has an average altitude of 770 metres. It is spread across an area of 128.42 km² at the base of the Chamundi Hills in the southern region of Karnataka which we visited. Mysore is the southern-most city of Karnataka. The city is located between two rivers: the Kaveri River that flows through the north of the city and the Kabini River, a tributary of the Kaveri, that lies to the south.











Day 10: Mysore 27 September 2017







After breakfast, we took an in-depth tour of Mysore. We howeer decided to go to Somnathpur to see the Keshava (Chennakesava Temple) Temple first which is about 35 kms east of Mysore.



The temple is housed inside an impressive high walled enclosure and the entrance to the complex is through a porch with tall lathe-turned pillars. The material used for the temple is soapstone (Green schist) which is soft when extracted from the soil but hardens like concrete when exposed and dried.



The Keshava temple standouts out as one of the finest the Hoysala architects produced. Its symmetrical architecture, fine sculptures on equally prominent shrines, and panel sculptures form a cloister that speak of good taste. While there are Hoysala temples with better sculpture and others with better architecture, this temple satisfies all requirements. According to the Mysore archaeological reports, it was built by the famous architect and sculptor Ruvari Malithamma who was well known for his expertise in ornamentation.



The temple which is built on a platform is a trikuta (triple shrine). Inside the temple, each vimana has a vestibule that connects it to the main rectangular hall. Like the shrines, all three vestibules also have their own tower called the Sukanasi (or nose), though it is shorter and hence looks like a low extension of the main superstructure over the shrine.



The outer walls of all three shrines, their towers and Sukanasi are equally well decorated, making it overall a very well balanced design. We also saw many lathe turned pillars inside the mantapa of the temple



All the three shrines are 16 pointed stellate (star-shaped) in design and their towers follow the same pattern. Hence the whole structure looks like a rhythmic progression of well decorated projections and recesses (called architectural articulation). The number of points make the towers look circular in shape.



All the shrines are heavily decorated with rows of elephants and stories told in sections of the decoration. Our guide told us a number of stories that the walks revealed. This was the way the people handed down their stories of life and the manner in which one should live.



We entered the inside of the shrines by steps and saw the domical bay ceiling in the mantapa of Chennakesava temple at Somanathapura. The door we walked through had a decorative doorjamb and lintel at the entrance to a shrine.



If a temple is not perfect then Hindus do not come to worship there. In the 1200s Muslims destroyed some of th Keshava Temple as they did other Hindu temples in southrn India. For this reasson, the Keshava Temple is now only a museum.







Overlooking the city of Mysore are the Chamundi Hills, where stands a monolithic statue of the Nandi Bull. We drove up the hill which in the 14^th century the pilgrams only had steps to reach the bull. The Hindu priest was at the Nandi Bull, providing blessings to the people.







Near the bull were a number of stands selling sugarcane juice, chilli gooseberries and bars such as peanut brittle, some of which we bought.







On the way back to the city of Mysore we stopped off at a silk and sandlewood outlet, for which Mysore was famous.







We then decided to revisit the Mysore Palace again but this time during the day. This was absolutely awesome. The infatuation with Mysore begins with the Maharaja’s Palace, at the heart of the city. It is a veritable treasure trove of exquisite carvings and works of art from the world over.







The Palace of Mysore is a historical palace in the city of Mysore and is the official residence and seat of the Wodeyars and rulers of Mysore, the royal family of Mysore, who ruled the princely state from 1399 to 1950. The palace houses two durbar halls (ceremonial meeting halls of the royal court) and incorporates an array of courtyards, gardens, and buildings. The palace is in the central region of inner Mysore, facing the Chamundi Hills eastward.



Mysore is commonly described as the City of Palaces. There are about seven palaces inclusive of this; however, Mysore Palace refers specifically to the one within the Old Fort. Built by the Maharaja Rajarshi His Highness Krishnarajendra wadiyar lV, Mysore Palace is now one of the most famous tourist attractions in India, after the Taj Mahal, with more than 6 million annual visitors.



Construction of the current palace was commissioned in 1897, completed in 1912, and expanded around 1940 (including the addition of the present Public Durbar Hall wing) during the reign of the last Maharaja of Mysore Kingdom. The construction was completed in 1912, but the fort continued to be beautified and its inhabitants were slowly moved to the newer extension built off the palace.



Our guide took us through all the rooms explaining what we were viewing. There was no chance to idly wander s the guards soon blew their whistles if people were standing in one place for too long.



The architectural style of domes of the palace is commonly described as Indo-Saracenic and blends Hindu, Muslim, Rajput and Gothic styles. It is a three-story stone structure with marble domes and a 48m five-story tower. The palace is surrounded by a large garden. The entrance gate and arch hold the emblem and coat of arms of the kingdom of Mysore, around which is written the kingdom's motto in Sanskrit: " never be terrified”.



This beautiful building is 82m in length and 52m in width. There are fire extinguishing machines located in all parts of the palace in order to prevent any fires.



The palace has three entrances: the East Gate (the front gate, opened only during the Dasara and for VVIPs), the South Entrance (for public), and the West Entrance (usually opened only during the Dasara). In addition, there are numerous secret tunnels from the palace cellar leading to Srirangapatna, other palaces, and confidential areas.



The three-story stone building of fine gray granite with deep pink marble domes has a facade with several expansive arches and two smaller ones flanking the central arch, which is supported by tall pillars. Above the central arch is a sculpture of Gajalakshmi, the goddess of wealth, prosperity, good luck and abundance with her elephants. There are three major exclusive temple buildings within the Old Fort, and about 18 inside the palace heart building.



The palace was built adjacent to the even older Parakala Mutt headquarters, whose leaders have remained spiritual rajguru (royal teacher and guide). The Maharajas of Mysore were devotees of Goddess Chamundi, which is why the palace faces Chamundi Hills.



The palace complex includes twelve Hindu temples. The oldest was built in the 14th century, while the most recent was built in 1953.



All of this was lit up the night before and looked so different during the day. There was no sign of the royal elephants we also saw the previous night.







With batteries flat on the camera (almost) and satisfaction that we could not see any more details of the Palace, we found our driver and found a lovely place in one of the hotels in Mysore city to have a light lunch. The 4 of us were silent for awhile and then just down-loaded all the features of the Palace we most enjoyed. What an experience!







As we were experiencing the Dasara Festival in Mysore, we heard from our guide that one of the streets in the city was closed and entertainment, music and fair was being organised.







The Festival was being held for the 407^th year. The first festival was held in the 14^th century. The entire Mysore palace was decorated with over 100,000 light bulbs. Each street in the city competed for the best display of street lights. Individual buildings added to the extraordinary display.







We walked down the closed street soon to be engulfed in the noise and carnival atmosphere. I loved it, but the others didn’t really go for the loud music. There was a group of drummeds playing which the locals joined in by dancing. It was fantastic. Shops were offereing Festival ‘deals’.







We walked the whole distance of the street which was about a kilometre and then all went back to our hotel for an afternoon G&T and beer. The others were relieved to be in the peace and quiet!!!!!!







Debbie and David then returned to their hotel as they were staying in a different hotel on the other side of the city. Tom and I went to the next door Metrapol Hotel for a lovely dinner, served by a very friendly, smiling waiter.







After dinner, we decided to walk around the bright streets again, dodging the mud and puddles along the edge of the road (no foot paths of course). I was keen to return to the closed street for the festival which was a block away from our hotel. The noise was even louder, with people blowing their horns, music playing and people still eating. Once we had soaked up enough of the atmosphere, we returned to our hotel.







We enjoyed our time and was fatisfied the day was so packed full of new experiences and sights. Just loved it!!

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