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Published: March 18th 2010
Sunday 7th March, we decided to move on from Wayanad. Stephen and Sarah were also keen to get to Hampi, so we agreed to travel together.
An interesting last breakfast. Varghese assured us that if we stayed for 20 days, they would provide 20 different Indian breakfasts! So we sat down to the wonderful coffee, and he came out with a big pot of rice noodles, and a huge bowl of forest honey. He put big spoonfuls of the noodles on each of our plates, followed by dollops of honey on top. We all tucked in, and it was superb. Then he re-appeared with another large dish, and somewhat to our surprise spooned masses of egg curry on top! Not what any of us would probably chosen to do, but it was certainly an interesting experience.
We had asked Varghese to get us a car back to Mananthevady, and soon after breakfast, Jils, our driver from the previous day (who, incidentally, had charged us 800 rupees, about £11, for picking us up, driving us to the mountain and back, and trekking with us all day!) arrived in his faithful 'jeep'. This time we all had our full packs, but we piled most of it on top.
We settled up with Varghese and Bhina, who were so warm and nice. After lots of hugs all round, they gave us all gifts - little gods, and a bracelet each; so sweet.
So rather sadly, off we went. After about 10 minutes we were on the main road down to the town, when a bus passed us going the other way. Jils slammed on the brakes, and told us theis was the Mysore bus, which was what we wanted. He turned the car round, and chased the bus, eventually persuading the driver to stop. We unloaded all our luggae, thanked Jils, and climbed onto the bus. We got the last 4 seats, which was just as well, because we then had an incredibly bumpy 3 hour ride! Again, no wildlife other than monkeys, but really an interesting way to travel. And at least in the Ghats the climate is a little more forgiving.
We got to the Mysore bus stand, and chaos ensued. About 100 people waiting to get on the bus, and they do the old trick of dropping books, bags etc through the windows onto a seat to reserve the seat. It doesn't actually work, of course, because the ones who get on first just throw any thing from the seat somewhere else, and sit there themselves. But as there are so many fighting to get on, getting off is an exercise in itself! Tooth and claw is the only way, and take no prisoners. Who needs to pay gym membership if you travel on Indian buses?
Of course, we were immediately approached by touts, but by now we were beginning to think they can be quite good. We chose one who seemed most promising, and told him we were heading to Hampi. He told us, as we expected, that we would have to spend the night in Mysore, but he could find us good budget hotels, and help us to arrange travel tomorrow. We went off with him to a travel agent friend of his(!), who checked the trains, and there was no chance for a few days. The only bus to Hampi is a normal bus (in other words, a bumpy, hard seated pile of something - mind you if you are standing for the entire 10 hours, which is quite likely, it doesn't matter how hard or soft the seats are!). But, surprise surprise, he can arrange a car and driver for next day for 'just' 5,500 rupees! We discussed this with Stephen and Sarah, and after knocking the price down to 4,400 rupees (about £60), we decided to go for it. Then into rickshaws to find a hotel. Ended up in the Chandra Palace, very central, and good value.
We had a veg thali for lunch, and it was very good. Then Stave and I went to the station to find out the real story about trains, while Baska and Sarah went off exploring. Amazingly, the story we had been given about trains turned out to be the truth - a first for India! So, definitely the car.
In the evening, we went off to the Palace, about a 10 minute walk away. We were lucky being there on a Sunday, as this is the one day of the week when they do this spectacular son et lumiere. At the stroke of 7pm, 97,000 lights go on all over the palace - and the rest of Mysore goes pitch black, because all the power is taken by the palace!! Only in India! And a military band play their hearts out for an hour - superb.
Monday morning, I was up early, about 6:30. I walked out into the main street - and stopped dead. All the cows which had been wandering around all the previous day, as in all Indian cities, were now tethered to lampposts, telegraph poles, any sort of vertical post. And they were being milked in the filthy street, usually by scruffy men with fags hanging out of their mouths! Never seen this before. But it got better. Whenever a cow shat, men would rush over with 2 pieces of cardboard and a bucket, scoop it up, and run off with it. I never saw any roses in this part of India, but I guess there must be some. And then, when a cow started to pis, an old guy who was loitering on the other side of the street, charged over the street with a tin mug, filled it, and drank it down in one!! Only in India!
About 11am, into the car for the trip to Hampi - next time.
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Andy Simms
non-member comment
And in Nepal
"Only in India" - and in Nepal too, except I don't think I ever saw anyone drink cow pee. They're probably not using the cow pats for the roses but will be drying them for use as fuel. Didn't realise you were going to Mysore. I recall liking the place as it seemed less crowded with buildings and people than other Indian cities - a sight for (my) sore eyes, you might say.