Kashmir Great Lakes - Trek of a Bangalorean

---

"If there is a Heaven on Earth, it is in Kashmir." I realised the age-old proverb after completing the Kashmir Great Lakes Trek.

When I was young, my dream was to be a wanderlust and travelling to Himalayas. Like many Bengalis I was influenced by the epic travelogue written by Parimal Dey and Umaprasad, the legendary travel-writers of Bengal.

But now I am 60 plus and around six months back, when our family friend Mr Basu offered for participation in the Himalayan Trek of “Kashmir Great Lakes”, I did not take it seriously, at least initially.

He was a seasoned trekker and participated in many trekking tours at different parts of Himalayas.

Age creates physical disabilities. We became slow, our muscle and limbs do not function as it should be. My fear was I should not be a burden to them.

But he continuously encouraged me. One day he intimated that only one seat was left for the batch of 24^th to 31^st July, 2021 organised by the Tour Agency. and I had to decide without further delay. Having already crossed sixty I had hardly few years to possess required physical abilities for trekking to Himalayas. Hence If I still desire, I should not hesitate further.

Gradually I realized that my old dreams although subdued, but still remained deep in my heart.

Trek coverage :

It was eight days trek covering a distance of around 63 Kms starting from Sonemarg and terminating at Narang at Kashmir. That included one day rest in between. Following seven lakes of Kashmir would be visited namely,

1.Nichnai, 2. Vishnasar, 3.Kishansar, 4.Gadsar, 5.Satsar, 6.Nandkhol and 7. Gangabol.

All the above lakes were located at the height of 11500 Ft to 12000 Ft. During our trek we would cover three mountain passes, highest point at 13750 ft.

From Bangalore we had to reach Srinagar. TTH would charge Rs. 14180/- for the trek. This included tent accommodation, Guide, food and other incidental charges. They also arranged transportation from Srinagar to Sonemarg and returning from Narang to Srinagar after completion of the tour with additional payment of Rs. 1700. One could also opt for offloading their backpack thru Horses with an extra payment of Rs. 2100/. They also offered me 10%!d(MISSING)iscount as a Sr. Citizen.

Trek Preparation

Although I made 50%!p(MISSING)ayment to book my seat, my hesitation still remained. The Tour Organiser Brochure mentioned in detail the requirements for preparation. I was worried when I read that the participant should have the ability to complete 5 Kilometer distance within 30 minutes. I started jogging and intermittent running around 4 to 5 Kms daily, but never reached to that standard.

I did not have a Himalayan trekking experience in last thirty years. In their brochure they attached a list of various items essential for the trek. Thus I had to procure many items locally from Decathlon Stores in Bangalore, including the Rucksack, Headlight, a polling stick . Many of those items later became critical in my journey.

Around one month back prior to the journey date, when I finally checked for the flight tickets, airfares for direct flight from Bangalore to Srinagar and back skyrocketed. Fare with a break journey via Delhi was comparatively cheaper and I opted for that.

For the balance payment I was advised to wait for some time till completion of the first trekking team of the season during first week of July, 21. Fortunately news of their safe arrival back to Srinagar came. Around a week back from the Journey date I paid the balance amount.

As per organiser norms, the incumbent trekker had to submit a “Medical Fitness Certificate” which I thought would be a cakewalk. But the real twist was waiting here. The first doctor whom I met looked at me as if I had been an idiot. His first reaction was “Don’t go to Kashmir, you will be shot by terrorist!” When I said I already crossed sixty, no regret even I die, he advised me to visit a Pulmonologist first (name he suggested) and take his clearance. Next doctor was in our neighbourhood, he advised to have series of investigation thru his clinic and then came back.

I was disappointed. I was expressing my plight to our friend, he said “No Problem” and assured me help for collecting a Fitness Certificate. But I was in two minds to take his help and try my luck for the last time. I visited Sakra World Hospital, Bangalore. Fortunately, Dr. Girish was a young physician, checked the essentials, asked about my trip and encouraged me to go for the same. I was delighted to receive the Fitness Certificate.

Next requirement was to collect COVID clearance not older than 72 hours despite having vaccinated for both the doses. Fortunately, the test result was negative.

I thought everything was over. Happily, when I tried for “Web-Check-in” for my flight, I was surprised to know that INDIGO diverted my journey from Bangalore via Kolkata via Chandigarh to Srinagar, instead of Bangalore to Delhi to Srinagar.

23.07.21

Journey to Srinagar

I started from my residence at around 5.30 am. Operation of the Government Bus Service (Called Vayu Vajra) was closed since COVID Lockdown. It did not resume thereafter. I had to take a Cab. I was carrying a Rucksack and a Back pack. As per my original flight schedule, my flight from Bangalore would start at around 9.30 hrs and would reach Srinagar at around 4.50 PM with change of flight at Delhi. Although it was re-routed thru Kolkata, aggregate flight time was reduced by around an hour. Flight no. 344 to Kolkata was scheduled to start 8.30 from Blore but started before that. I reached Kolkata at 10.45 AM. Kolkata was my original hometown although I had been to Bangalore for more than a decade. Thus, it was a bonus. No chance of going outside Airport. I had to undergo security check once again but thanked Indigo for giving me opportunity of touching my hometown as also tasting Bengali sweets from kiosks at the Kolkata Airport. One relief was that there was no Check-In Baggage check once again. My big Rucksack would be sent directly to Srinagar.

Mr Basu and two of his friends would also participate in the trek. They already started early morning and reached Delhi en-route to Srinagar.

One of the fellow trekkers of our group boarded the same flight from Kolkata. He collected my number and called me yesterday. He would be going alone and hence requested my company, which I delightfully agreed.

Many seats were vacant in both Bangalore to Kolkata as well as at Kolkata- Chandigarh-Srinagar flight when it started from Kolkata at around 12.45 PM and reached Chandigarh at around 3 PM. However, a large number of passengers boarded from Chandigarh. When the flight departed once again at around 3.50 PM, the aircraft was almost full.

Many of them were holiday makers going to Srinagar with family. Indigo flight attendants had to spend a tough time to make them wearing face-masks. One passenger was not ready to wear mask despite repeated requests. Having no other recourse, all the airhostess came together and virtually forced him to wear. I must appreciate the effort of the Airline Crew in this regard.

Weather was cloudy at Blore and in Kolkata it was drizzling. But it was a sunny afternoon at Chandigarh. At last we touched Srinagar at around 16.40 hrs almost at the exact time. Cloudy weather. I was disappointed not to find any snow peak till now.

My first priority was to call Mr Basu and his two other friends who already reached Srinagar few hours back. My AIRTEL prepaid was not functioning and I tried with my newly acquired BSNL Post-paid Mobile Number. Luckily it worked. They already checked in to our designated hotel.

I noticed that at the Airport, the name was written in urdu only. It was a small airport, but very crowded. My check in luggage was originally announced to be at Belt no. 1, bags were being delivered at belt no.2. I was worried whether my Check-In luggage would reach correctly at Srinagar with diversion in between. But it was a big relief when I noticed my baggage at last.

Mr Basu advised me to take extra precaution for my Walking Poll. There were previous instances of walking pole received in broken condition due to manhandling of luggage by the Aircraft Carriers. This stick was critical for the trekker which I understood later and its absence might spoil the entire trek. Luckily the pole remained unharmed.

Next worry was about Covid protocol. As per prevailing rules at Kashmir, production of RT-PCR Test Report not older than 72 hours was mandatory before leaving the Airport, otherwise one has to undergo the Rapid Test at the Airport itself. There were several counters for COVID Certificate scrutiny and the officials were examining extensively. They were insisting on Certificate issued by “NABL Certified Laboratory”. Passengers having negative COVID Certificate but not able to show NABL Accreditation or holding certificate more than 72 hours had to undergo Rapid Test once again.

Luckily the counter person for me was good. He was satisfied with my report and put the stamp in the boarding pass. Having completed all those rituals, we hired a prepaid taxi for Rs 730. My fellow traveler in the same flight from Kolkata, also accompanied me towards the same hotel. It took around half an hour to reach there. Our Kashmiri Driver was gentle and co-operative. When pointing out why he did not wear mask he said “In Kashmir it was not required. There was hardly any COVID case here.” We attempted to convince him, but he was not impressed.

Our Hotel

Our hotel “Ashai Heritage Colonial Bungalow” was located at Rajbagh, a posh area of Srinagar. The area looked to be a residential locality. Entrance gate was quite huge and made of steel. It remained closed and locked always as long as we stayed. When we called from outside, somebody peeped from a smaller entrance, enquired and then opened the main gate. It looked to be a private heritage building converted into a hotel. There was a huge beautiful green lawn in front, surrounded by number of Apple Trees which enhanced beauty of the building. There was beautiful intricate wooden carving in all room ceilings. Mr Basu and his two friends already reached. We did not notice any other tourist. I shared a room with Mr Sriram. We were all seniors possibly at the thresholds of sixty, although I appeared to be the senior most.

Mr Sriram was extremely friendly, warm and a pleasant personality. He was not only my room partner but also tent partner in later part of the tour. Always ready to help others, I was lucky to have his company during my trek.

Hotel staffs were cordial. They were speaking in kashmiri between themselves. Their mobile ring tone music also was different. Later on also I did not notice any hindi music or song playing anywhere at Srinagar. On the way I noticed all the shops, markets closed. It was learnt to be due to ldd which was celebrated here for 2 days. Today was the second day.

We wanted to stroll outside, but was advised not to venture due to security reasons. Green lawn attracted us and we enjoyed very tasteful tea, sitting therein. Even at 7.45 pm there was day light.

We had dinner with Dal Tarka, Sabji, Rice/Roti, Salad, Papad. Cook was a Nepali.

I went to bed at around 9.30 pm. It was not an uninterrupted sleep, may be due to not having much physical exercise throughout the day. Early morning at around 4 AM I heard the choir of Ajan from nearby Masque. It was so rhythmic and exactly matching with silent environment.

24.07.21

At around 5.30 am, I could not resist leaving my bed. Slowly I opened the wooden door but probably everybody was asleep. Soft morning light with chirping of varieties of birds were whispering, “Pl get up, leave your bed, I already arrived to welcome you”. I removed my chappal and slowly started walking barefoot thru the Green Lawn. With overnight moisture it was wet, soft like velvet. Lot of Apple trees in the garden. Apples could be reached by hand. But they were mostly green or brown reddish color. Later on, when enquired Manager said Sept Oct would be the season for plucking apples.

Sunrise was not visible from the hotel. But rainbow colours started shining in the sky. Meanwhile there was a scream and my fellow traveller came out from inside shouting “Tea, Tea”. No, nobody was awake till now. Gradually, everybody appeared. Morning tea also arrived in no time.

Breakfast was served at around 8 AM with bread, butter, omlette and Tea. We already decided to spend the last night of tour after returning from the trek, in the same hotel. An elaborate dinner order was placed to celebrate the night of our return with Mutton, Fish and varieties of dishes.

Dal Lake & Shikara Ride

Our bus for Sonemarg was to start at 2.30 PM. Hence, we proceeded towards Dal Lake. Most of the shops still were still closed. Kashmiree people were worth noticeable. Men are tall and well-built, much stronger than us. Women do not wear borkha. They looked beautiful with tall, white reddish complexion. But faces looked gloomy. Alas, god has gifted everything to this land except peace.

It was around half an hour walk. In a hurry I was not able to locate my Face Musk. Sriram sir instantly offered a mask. Nevertheless, when we reached, my first reaction of Dal Lake was not so impressive. It was one of those tourist spots which we heard, enjoyed in Hindi Movies, photographs, videos, and what not, since my childhood. It looked like any other lake in absence of surrounding mountains, snow peaks possibly not visible due to morning fog. Tourist numbers were thin. We came to the Shikara stand. Large number of colourful boats were waiting. One boatman appeared and repeatedly pleaded to hire his boat. We were not willing for a boat-ride initially but agreed later to experience it. One hour ride would cost Rs 400.

Our anchor was a smiling middle-aged man explaining various places while sailing the boat. Meanwhile many other boats started coming near to our boat with varieties of merchandise. That was a floating market. We bargained and purchased some items. My fellow traveler showed ornaments on sale to his wife at Kolkata thru video call and selected items chosen by her, with Lot of negotiation. But for me the best of the lot was tasting Kahwa Tea. It was prepared by another Boatman with different spices. Hot, delicious and very refreshing.

Our leader advised to take comfortable bath since we would not have that opportunity for next one week. Toilet of the hotel room was specious with a large bath tub. We relished our bath one by one. Lunch was consumed quickly. There was a small confusion since we requested the “TTH local transport arrangement in charge”, to send a dedicated vehicle for carrying five of us. Despite repeated calls and assurance, the so-called vehicle did not appear. To avoid further delay we had to hire a cab for reaching the “Tourist Reception Centre”, from where our bus for Sonemarg would depart.

Sonemarg

We started for Sonemarg at 2.45 pm. Parts of Dal lake, Tomb of famous Hazratbal Mosque, University of Kashmir etc appeared and left behind. Slowly we reached outskirts of Srinagar and moved further thru Srinagar-Leh Highway. Reached the grape-town, Ganderbal at 3.20 pm.Sonamarg was mentioned to be around 67 km from here. Road was narrow and crowded. Somewhere our bus halted due to heavy traffic. It was moving slowly and at around 16.00 hrs we crossed a narrow bridge on the mighty Sindhu or Indus River. I was amazed to see it, felt excited.

Now the road became narrow, with twists and turns and moving uphill with Sindhu river accompanying us on the right side. Tall green mountains were on the other side of the river.

It was with us throughout rest of our journey.

Weather was cloudy and smoky. Long military convoy were coming from the opposite side. Leh was around 385 kms from here.

At around 5PM I was thrilled to have first glimpse of snow. It was a glacier originating from the top of mountain. Then it could be seen one after another. Some of them were quite huge, virtually touching the riverbank.

My first night in Tent and Sleeping Bag

We arrived at last, to our destination after crossing the river bridge. We passed a tea shop and went down towards the river bank. I was surprised to watch so many tents of different colours. That was my first encounter with tent. Colour of “Trek The Himalayas” tent was red and distinctly identifiable.

I loved the location at first sight. Besides green mountain ranges spreading the landscape on the other side of the river, a snow-peak stood tall on the other side of the Highway. A pale moon coming out of the cloud reminded me, today was Gurupurnima.

Different Trekking Agencies placed their tents in the vicinity. Colour of their tents were different. Entire area was filled with sense of adventurism, a festive look. Participants were mostly young and a sizable number of them were ladies.

After a brief break, the introductory phase was completed. Simultaneously there was scrutiny of KYC Documents like Adhar card, Medical fitness Certificate and a self-declaration form regarding the risks involved during the trek duly signed by the trekker. There were twenty-one members in our team, three of them being women. One of the women was a seasoned biker. She drove her motorbike from as far as Karnataka. She travelled length and breadth of the country thru her bike. We four and another gentleman from Hyderabad were aged, balance all were young trekkers. Probably I was the senior-most but the Hyderabadi was also touching sixty.

Our Guide

It was past seven but daylight was bright. Our guide “Nabu” introduced himself. A man of average height, not having a trace of fat in his physique, he hailed from Uttarakhand but employed in TTH. He completed a trek on the same route just yesterday and tasked with another next day, without any break. He briefed about the trek, do’s and don’ts. I felt some relief to listen from him that our trek would not be very difficult and could be covered with moderate effort and precaution. His delivery was a bit hard, at least as it appeared initially. I felt very uncomfortable when he said that dismantling the tent as well as managing sleeping bag would be individual’s responsibility. I had absolutely zero experience in handling tent and sleeping bag. I felt worried, at the same time there was no other alternative. When you are pushed to the water, you have to swim.

But as the trek progressed, I found him to be a very experienced, disciplined and caring person.

We finished our dinner at around 8.30 PM. I was ecstatic about my new experience inside a tent and with sleeping bag. Each tent was to accommodate two trekkers. Inside space was limited for movement and no question of standing, but we were to manage. Most significant was the closing and opening of the zip for entry and exit which needed careful and patient handling. Otherwise, there were possibilities of insect attack, once it encroached it was very disturbing and difficult to handle, inside the tent.

I didn’t feel for changing and entered the sleeping bag as it is. Inside it was comfortable but I felt the absence of a pillow to place my head. Moreover, we were not accustomed to sleep on a hard surface. Gradually the anxiety about our adventure tomorrow onwards, was looming large. Tension of my ability to trek, whether my body could withstand the toil, all those things were coming to my mind.

At around 11 pm I went outside and it was an amazing sight. Full moon of Gurupurnima was blooming the sky. Nearby snow peak and the entire area were glittering in the bright moonlight. I became spellbound. It was quiet, mystic except occasional sound of vehicles plying thru the Srinagar Leh highway, near to our tent area.

25.07.21

Early morning rituals

I Woke up at 5.30 AM and brushed at the nearby stream. Water was ice-cold and difficult to swallow. There was que in latrine. Somehow that could be finished without much difficulty.

Wrapping large sleeping clothes into the sleeping bag was a big challenge. It was as if a large snake to be pushed into a small hole. I was struggling a lot, but with tent partner Sriram sir's help I was able to manage.

Dismantling the tent and putting into a small cover was another big task for newcomer. Most of the task he did. I tried my best to help but sometimes adding to his trouble.

Breakfast with bread butter jam was quite good. Additionally, they also gave one juice packet, few lozenges, a banana. We were given back the lunch box with packed lunch. Most of us handed over our Rucksack to Trek Assistants for transporting thru horses and carried a light backpack with essentials.

Guide told us to form a que and he made a rollcall of all 21 trekkers. We were introduced to another guide apart from team leader. Today we had to walk around 9 Kms and reach from 7800 ft at present to 11,500 ft at Nichnai. Initial route would be gradual climb followed by descent and finally ascent once again to reach today’s destination.

Trek commenced

Trek started at 8 am. It was a clear morning with Cool but comfortable temperature. Initially we were walking one by one, but when ascent started, our young members went ahead. We were slowly moving thru a wide-open green meadow. Far away mountain ranges were attempting to emerge out of the morning fog. Our path was soft and wet with overnight dew. I could see long que of trekkers. Some of the trekkers of other agencies started early and moved further. Most of our group were young except five of us. Many of them proceeded ahead. By then the sunlight approached and environment became worm.

Initially I looked up the trek path and frightened. How could I cover such continuous uphill? Nevertheless, there was no other choice now. Let me try and see. Walking slowly, I was taking breadth, stop for a while and resume further. I could listen to my heart beat pumping like a rail engine and wonder whether immediately I would have heart attack. Here I understood the importance of my trekking pole. It gave me additional strength which I needed to move further during ascent. It protected my balance in decent. The path was picturesque with greenery all around.

The valley, Mountain Range and Aroma of Pine Trees

Now we were walking thru the green forest with innumerable number of Pine, Maple and so many other trees. Sunlight became strong with deep blue sky visible between tree leaves. Distant mountains with dense green forests were crystal clear and shining in blue sky. I was feeling tired but mesmerized with the environment.

Our path was filled with trekkers. Most of them were in rejoicing mood, walking, gossiping, consuming chocolates and dry fruits intermittently. Ladies were in large numbers. Overall a mood of exuberance and fun. Some trekkers were walking with loud music disturbing the peace. That was definitely not acceptable. I also noticed many trekkers throwing the chocolate cover on the way, even leaving plastic bottles also. Framing rules and issuing notices were not enough. Creating basic awareness was the need of hour, absence of which could be disastrous for these heavenly places.

Occasionally, we were cautioned to take sides and make way for horses carrying our luggage. They were coming in large numbers carrying bags, utensils, gas cylinders, gas stoves and what not. They walked faster than humans, reach destination early than trekkers so that all arrangements could be made in advance. Trekking expedition was virtually impossible without them.

It was around 9.30, very worm and I had to remove my jacket. It increased the weight of my backpack substantially. I had a small water bottle which I felt insufficient.

Mesmerizing view of the Paradise

At around 11 AM I felt relieved to spot a tea shop far away. It was a small hut on top of a vast green lawn made by nature. Surface was so smooth like a vast Golf Course gifted by almighty. Lush green forest with tall trees on the one side of the meadow. Other side was surrounded by high mountains with innumerable trees. From distance it looked as if they were covered by huge green carpet. I was amazed to witness divergence of green colours in the landscape. Snow peaks with glaciers glittering in sunlight could be seen far away. It was a spectacular place to witness and appreciate beauty of nature.

Although felt exhausted I considered fortunate to come here. Now I could understand why Kashmir was called as paradise of earth.

That place was called Shekdur. Many of our team members already arrived and ordered Tea for all of us. They rested in the pristine lawn and relaxed. I relished the place with sip in the tea cup, threw my body on it and felt sleepy. It was so cosy and comfortable. But our guide shouted with a wake-up call. We had to leave our comfort and resume our journey.

We began descending and approached a mountain river. Now our route followed the stream on the right. Originating from distant mountains where we would reach the next day, this stream ultimately ended at Sindh river further down. Initially it was wide but as we proceeded it became narrow, fierce and naughty. Ice ridges formed in river bank, some of them as large as coming from the mountain top. River was nourished with the melted water. Water was crystal like glass, I could see the river surface clearly.

Path on the bank of the stream were full of boulders. My first encounter with boulders started here. Before the trek I was worried about my stamina only. But as the day progressed, I realised that stamina had not been the only requirement here to sail through. Negotiating with huge rocks on the way was one of them. Walking thru it required careful selection of rocks and balanced footsteps. Any misadventure might be injurious. We faced one of the most difficult terrain with huge boulders but that was on another day.

It was quite hot and I was sweating profusely. At around 1.30 pm we put a break and unpacked our lunch boxes. It was much needed since I felt mild head reeling sometimes. I was thirsty but having no water in the bottle, thought of drinking stream water. Being a typical urbanite, we were accustomed to AquaGuard, filter and what not. Hence, I was initially hesitant to consume river water, suspecting whether it would be suitable for my stomach. But in a scorching sun, running without drink for long might result de-hydration. After initial hesitation I poured it into my bottle, but it was ice-cold , difficult to take at a time. Nevertheless, it gave me much needed relief.

Beauty beyond description

But the view all around was breath-taking. Green Mountains on the other side with deep blue sky were wearing dazzling look. I could notice herds of sheep in large numbers looked like small points. Some of them could be located almost at the mountain top. One or two humans possibly Shepherds, were also visible. Entire landscape was so pure and pristine.

I was thrilled to walk on ice ridge for the first time. Ice was not white but brownish. Crossing the ice needed care since there was chance of losing balance.

Suddenly our path became very narrow and we started ascending through high mountains. Right side was wide open with steep lower elevation thousands of feet straight to the river. The river departed us but could be seen like thin white lines far below. Walking through this track was dangerous since an inadvertent fall might be deadly. Luckily it was not very lengthy and somehow could be passed unharmed.

We reached Nichnai at last and delighted to mark the first sight of colourful tent placed on the river bank. It looked like a pencil dot. But when we came nearby, we realised it was not our tent. We went ahead and crossed the river. Like a bunch of tired and exhausted dogs we were looking for our red colour tent. But it was not in sight. Nobody could be traced there to guide us. Our group was trekking in different batches but not together. Two of our guides could be seen sometimes during our trek, but not appeared to have adequate watch on everybody.

Wondering here and there for some time we sat near a probable place. I felt very tired and became almost stationery. After nearly one hour we were relieved to trace our guide. We followed him and arrived at our Red Colour Tent. Gradually the helpers, cooks and other members of TTH Team appeared. There was heated argument for keeping us waiting unnecessarily.

On the way I noticed a horse lying dead with its body upside down. Probably it fell down from the mountain track above and met the tragic death. No idea whether it would be taken away and cremated. It was a dis-heartening sight.

Our evening snacks was palatable with tomato soup and popcorn. Our guide Nobu patiently heard todays fiasco. Pulse as well as oxygen saturation level of each trekker were checked and found to be ok. Dinner was served at around eight. With evening snacks, I did not feel hungry but finished it.

My first day trek was over. Slight relief but with so many days still left, my worry was still there. As advised by Mr Basu, I was taking half tablet of Diamox as well as a Digene every night to keep myself fit.

---