Last days for Valerie and a trip across the border


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March 11th 2009
Published: March 11th 2009
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15th January 2009

I was woken by David at 8:00am, he was in a complete panic. He just received a phone call from relatives who were arriving today to visit him. He’s forgotten all about it. Obviously it was time to move on, I felt sorry for David as he was very embarrassed by the situation. David had been very generous and kind during our brief stay, we were going to miss him.

After waking to girls and telling them the situation, we packed quickly and I took them to The Phoenix Bar for breakfast. We met John Hutchinson there and he let us store our bags in his room. I told the girls to go and chill out at the beach and I would sort out some accommodation for us. Pili was all flustered so I though I get more done on my own..

We’d made plans to go and see Captain Lobbo’s farm retreat this afternoon so I though I’d better go and see him first. William was sat in the resturaunt when I arrived and Lance (the Captain) arrived shortly afterwards. Lance very kindly offered us his private apartment in his hotel for the night.
Captian LobosCaptian LobosCaptian Lobos

Sadly the lack of imagination by the owner caused a missed oportunity for us
It was all very plush and well fitted out, a real players pad. I told the girls that they could stay there and I would crash at John’s for the night.

In the afternoon we drive for an hour just across the Goan border into the Maharashtra district to the Captains jungle retreat. The place was amazing with a large swimming pool, guest cottages, outside eating area and three large lakes. The place needed some work and investment but it had huge potential. Unfortunately I think the Honey Bee has gone to Lance’s head because he wanted Pili and I to manage it and to feed ourselves from the land. Every time I mentioned money he changed to subject. I suggested the first thing he has to do is get rid of the local staff he had working there. They were stealing everything in sight and none of them spoke English. He didn’t like this idea at all; I pointed out to him that if he wanted to market this place to western tourists that it might be useful if the paying customers could place drink and food orders without the use of a translator. Poor Lance seems to be operating on a different planet. It’s a real shame because Pili and I could have really made something of this place. It’s in the middle of a jungle and is perfect for all the eco tourists and naturalists coming into Goa.

In the evening the girls went for cocktails in Tito’s Rd while John and I ate at the Phoenix. Later we all met up back at Bobbies and ended the night there.

16th January 2009

I got up early and went looking for some new accommodation. I eventually found a place for 350Rs a night at the bottom of CSM Rd. Pleased with myself I headed up to Lobo’s to tell the girls. Upon arrival the manager of the resturaunt told me of a place that his friend runs that was very close to the restaurant, we decided we’d better check it out before making a final decision.

The room was above Hazel’s beauty parlour, the apartment was very nice and clean with plenty of space, fridge and TV. They owners wanted 1500Rs a night which was way out of our budget; I offered 500Rs which they immediately declined. We thanked them for their time and left. When we got back out onto the street the owner came running after us and said that because we seemed such nice people and that his wife liked the look of us, he’d accept our offer, RESULT! We ran back to Lobbo’s said our goodbyes, collected our bags and rushed back to our new room before they changed their minds.

Relieved to have a room we decided to spend Valerie’s last days at the beach, she was leaving early in the morning.

17th January 2009

We spent all day at the beach, Pili teaching the local kids how to read and write and play Suduko, they all love her. John Hutchinson calls Pili the local Social Services representative.

18th January 2009

This morning John H and I went to Arpora wood to see what we could see. To be honest it was pretty dead, I thing it was just too hot. On the walk back we stopped off for a couple of beers at a tin shack bar and just sat in the shade and watched the World go by.

Before leaving I purchased some Alloo to take back to Pili. (Alloo is a spicy potato snack, delicious)

We spent to rest of the day at the beach, cooling off in the sea and reading. The temperature is definitely rising!

19th -20th January 2009

The next couple of days were pretty lazy. We did go with John into Calangute and visited to Public Bar or as we call it the PUBIC BAR. We had a couple of Vodka Lime and Soda’s at 20Rs (35p each). Pili and I did some food shopping at the local markets and then basically got out of the heat and read and watched some TV which is quite a novelty.

21st January 2009

This morning I was up early taking photos. I had a great time down the Baga Rd and got some great shots. It's quite strange but it seems everyone now knows me. Everywhere I go I hear “morning John” with waves and smiling faces, it’s very nice I have to say.

On my return we decided to go and visit David. On arrival we found him to be out so I decided to make the most of it and waded across the marshland opposite to get some photographs of the resident Wholly-Necked Storks. I only had my shorts and boots on so I was especially observant of snakes. Unfortunately I didn’t find any but I did get some great shots of the Storks.

In the evening we met up with John H and went to ‘Fire and Ice’ for steaks. Everyone has recommended to resturaunt to us and at 250Rs (£3.00) a steak we had to try it, I needed some red meat!

The meal was fantastic and I now understand why the place is always packed.

21st-23rd January

Nothing really report apart from a trip to Panji to check out some Karaoke equipment for Mike and Jenny who run the Pheonix Bar.

John H had a dose of ‘Seals Disease’ on the 22nd cancelling our intended 7km walk to Ford Aguada, ha, ha, it serves him right for taking the piss out of us when we were afflicted.

It’s getting very hot, daily temperatures ranging between 36-39C, the humidity is also high. I’ve been reading a classic book called ‘Shantaram’ by Gregory David Roberts’ all about an escaped Australian convict on the run. He settles in Mumbia and ends up living in the slums running a basic health clinic. The story twists and turns throughout with the lead character getting involved with the local mafia and even fighting the Russians in Afghanistan along side the Mujarardeen. I highly recommend the book; it’s a thrilling read and a true story.

We’ve been really fascinated by our neighbours who live at the back of the house. There is a small village of huts and live stock with maybe twenty people living in very basic conditions. It really makes you realise how lucky we are to be born in the west with our comparative wealth and modern conveniences. These people have very little or no running water and definitely no electricity. Every morning they come out of their tin and cardboard shacks and start the day washing and cooking breakfast, huddling around fires, faceless in the gloom and shadows. Not one of them look the worse for it and the morning air is filled with laughter and great food smells. What’s really amazing is how clean and healthy everyone is, all have perfect white teeth, shiny black hair and immaculate cloths of amazing fabrics in a myriad of colours. I’d love to
Land and forest as far as the eye could seeLand and forest as far as the eye could seeLand and forest as far as the eye could see

This could have been home for a while
know what they really think of the overweight westerners, shabbily dressed in ill fitting shorts and football shirts. A large part of me really envies these proud, beautiful people.

The roaming pigs and chickens provide squealing and clucking as a soundtrack, perfectly in sync with the rhythm of life. Occasionally the air is pierced by the melodious song from a Magpie Robin or a small acrobatic Purple Rumped Sunbird sipping nectar from the flowering tree outside our window. Occasionally we hear screeching from a Rose Ringed or Plum Headed Parakeets which sporadically frequent the surrounding shrubs and trees. Every morning at approx 8:00am a beautiful Koel (a magpie sized black bird with piercing red eyes) visits one of the flowering shrubs, announcing itself with its unearthly call. The sound is a blend between the call of a Gibbon and the moan of heated passion; I look forward to greeting him every morning.

I also have to mention that one the female pigs has given birth to eight impossibly cute, energetic and constantly hungry piglets. I had to explain to Pili that they might not be around for long as we’d already seen a dozen signs outside resturaunts advertising ‘Suckling Pig’ which translates to baby pigs that still suckle from their mothers. Most people never put the two together, of course Pili was horrified!

24th January 2009

John (French Cut) Bridges leaves today so we spent an hour or at the beach with him. He promises to come back in a couple of weeks to use the last days on his visa, we’re going to miss the big guy.

John H and I went for a walk down to the Baga River and stopped for a couple of beers on the way back. We found a bar that was full of Russians so we found some seats in the shade and took the piss. We also made friends with a big bar dog called Bruno, he was a big soft thing and loved the attention we gave him.

When we arrived back at the beach I left John chatting up a woman called Gemma who looks a little like Liz Taylor. Pili stayed sunbathing so I headed back to the flat to continue my book.

In the evening we all convened at Bobbies Shack to raise a glass to big John’s safe journey home and safe return in a couple of weeks.

We decided to go and have another steak meal at ‘Fire and Ice’ again it was packed but it was well worth the wait. Pili also helped make some nan bread and roti’s in the Tandoor oven, with a little instruction from the chef, she entertained the whole resturaunt. John then went home for an early night and we went to play pool with the boys at the sports bar.



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Pili with mad VesentiPili with mad Vesenti
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In three months I think I understood a dozen words she said to me, she spoke in tongues but everyone loved her
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This monkey watched John and I while we walked through the jungle
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