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Asia » India » Goa
October 8th 2005
Published: July 8th 2006
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My sleeper ticket only cost me 2.90. You get for what you pay for! 8 people crammed into a space that could barely hold 6, more vinyl than John Peel and a few dodgy bugs crawling around. It’s only 12 hours of my life, plus I am too drunk to stay awake and worry about things.

After a pretty reasonable sleep, considering, I got to chat to my fellow carriage mates. A Russian and 2 Czech guys, all had typical eastern European haircuts (to match mine I guess) and liked their football, which is always a good icebreaker, almost as good as the small icepick I carry with me.

After checking out the lush countryside I arrive at my stop. Then I needed a taxi across town to the bus station. My first tut-tut ride of the trip, it was a pricey one (1km, 50Rs.) compared to my bus to Palolem (40km 20Rs.)

The bus ride was a fun filled one, plenty of near death moments for the 70 or so on board, thank god I got a seat. The sign up front said 10 standing. I got up to 40 and gave up, quite unsafe! But who
Catch Of The DayCatch Of The DayCatch Of The Day

Smells a bit fishy to me.
cares, the beaches of Goa are calling.

My sleeper ticket only cost me 2.90. You get for what you pay for! 8 people crammed into a space that could barely hold 6, more vinyl than John Peel and a few dodgy bugs crawling around. It’s only 12 hours of my life, plus I am too drunk to stay awake and worry about things.

After a pretty reasonable sleep, considering, I got to chat to my fellow carriage mates. A Russian and 2 Czech guys, all had typical eastern European haircuts (to match mine I guess) and liked their football, which is always a good icebreaker, almost as good as the small icepick I carry with me.

After checking out the lush countryside I arrive at my stop. Then I needed a taxi across town to the bus station. My first tut-tut ride of the trip, it was a pricey one (1km, 50Rs.) compared to my bus to Palolem (40km 20Rs.)

The bus ride was a fun filled one, plenty of near death moments for the 70 or so on board, thank god I got a seat. The sign up front said 10 standing. I got up
Sunset From The Green IslandSunset From The Green IslandSunset From The Green Island

Every day, but still worth a look
to 40 and gave up, quite unsafe! But who cares, the beaches of Goa are calling.

I walk towards the beach and choose my beach hut complex, sea view, private bathroom for 200Rs. Alright I guess! First things first, beer. Half the price of Mumbai so a good start. Not much else here other than beach huts and bars, don’t mind that though, It a quality beach and the only sound is the waves or the coconut trees in the breeze. I could stay here for weeks, but 3 nights will be enough I reckon.

I had a very nice pizza in a beachside restaurant, the right amount of cheese, tomato, chilies and spices, all on a thin base, perfect. Then back to my complex watching the night waves and drinking the half price Kingfisher.

I had a good lie in the next day in my mosquito net covered bed. Ended up having breakfast around 12, just as it was getting really hot. I had a look around what they call a town here, all it had was shops selling western comforts, like shampoo, chocolate, jam, crisps. One shop even sold Marmite, I was tempted, but opted
View From My Second HutView From My Second HutView From My Second Hut

Pissing down out there, best thing to do is drink! Ugh! those feet!
for the toilet roll instead. I think I will be using the toilet roll more than the Marmite here! I had a walk along the beach at low tide, to myself in some places. You can’t beat a nice beach, this one is up there.

For dinner that night I had my first “Authentic” Indian meal, the first one of the trip. I sent a text to Tebbutt, to see if he could guess what I had, he did. Chicken Rogan Josh with some steamed rice, and it was pretty nice too, a bit spicier than the best though. That can be found at the La Hind Restaurant in Milton Keynes (nudge, nudge, wink, wink). Then a few more beers to finish off a chilled day. I can expect 2 more like these coming up!

My next full day was just the same, apart from getting my laundry done and some sunbathing on the beach. Another nationality went down in my estimation today, they are arrogant, impatient, fussy and rude, again I will not mention where they come from. Don’t worry Gareth / Lewis / Llinos, they were not Welsh, if they were I would just say so!

At low tide I went to the Green Island to watch the sunset, very popular. How can something so frequent still be so popular? No idea why, but I bet it’s not the last one I go out of my way to see on this trip.

Back to the centre of the resort on the now huge Palolem beach taking in the great views. I could stay here for weeks, doing nothing, but that’s not for me(!)

I picked up my washing, she did a good job too. I even had creases in my underwear! Some dinner in a newly opened up restaurant, most of this place is opening up now after the monsoon season, causing everyone to be woken up by workmen building the huts up for the coming season. Then back to the beachfront bars for some cool, refreshing beer, followed by a few mojitos. Headache forecast for tomorrow!

I woke up with the headache and a few fears of what happened, or anything I said to anyone, oh well, will never see them again! I packed up my bag and checked out, playing the waiting game again for my bus to Bangalore, no drinking this time! just coconut lassis, one think I will be definitely making when I get back home.

Said my goodbyes and catch my bus to the bus station. Nobody told me there was 2 bus stations here, so I walked to the old one in the centre of the town and waited beside a bunch of disappointed motorcycle taxi drivers all thinking they were in when I walked towards them. I sat down knowing I had at least a 90 minute wait ahead.

90 minutes gone and no sign of any buses to Bangalore, it starts to rain adding more annoyance, goo job I got that umbrella. Another 90 minutes pass, everyones bus apart from mine has turned up, all the shops are closing and the motorcycle cabbies have gone home. Leaving me in a ghost town, I will give up at 11pm (3 hours late, it only has to come from Margao which is 40Kms away). The tramps are even asking me to move because I am sitting where they spend the night!

At last a bus for Bangalore pulls up, I show my ticket. "Ahh, no. Not this bus" said the ticket inspector, "This is the Aircon one, your bus has gone already." How could it? I have stopped every bus for the past 4 hours.
"LET ME ON!"
"Only if you pay full fare"
"Sod it!"

I give up and start walking back to Palolem, with no sober motorcycle taxi drivers and no rickshaws. I had to walk the all the way back to the beach in darkness. I'd thought I would try and stay somewhere else. I entered a complex which was playing Pink Floyd's "Wish you were here", could be a sign. "Sorry we are full", never mind plenty of other places about, but it's getting very late. All of a sudden I get a call from above "We are leaving at midnight, you can have our hut" It was 2 Danish girls who came to the rescue "And you won't have to pay because we paid for tonight so we could stay here all day today". Bloody hell Rodders! Looks like we fell on our feet 'ere bruv!

It's a better hut and a even better seaview, free was the best part though! I talked to the girls until they had to leave, they were heading south on a overnight train. And that's what I am going to try first from now on, Trains across India, not crappy, not even turning up buses! Looks like I will have to put up with sunbathing, eating and drinking for another day or so!

Next morning I headed towards the shops to sort out a train to Bangalore, but I will have to wait until tomorrow to catch it, no worries. At least I know where I get on it, that is where the train starts. Time for breakfast, I choose a place with the Super Series Cricket and order a Full English Breakfast, because I can!! After waiting 15 overs for any sign that I might get fed, I stand up and turn to leave, just as my breakfast is coming towards me. Milky tea, bread with cremated bacon and one egg. I know this is not a greasy spoon back home but I waited 30 minutes for anything and with 5 people in the kitchen when I am the only customer, that sucks! I walk out and head to a beach side place for breakfast, now at 1pm!

Later in the day I go back to the travel agent to get my train ticket. Fully Booked! Arse! The next train isn't until Thursday, that will have to do, but not guaranteed until tomorrow.

Time for a major rethink about my route through India, I book a flight from Bangalore to Delhi. I wasn't expecting to get to Delhi so soon, but Chennai and Calcutta just seem like big cities to me, that's if my train is OK!

My train wasn't, fully booked every way possible. It seems the bus is the only way to Bangalore from here for a while. It's a good job I like Palolem.

The next few days were spent sunbathing, drinking, eating, hearing Bob Marley's Legend album 50 times, keeping a unbeaten run on the bar's pool table and not wanting to leave. It becomes more and more Idyllic every day

Some much needed accountancy was required, I am spending too much money in India! I need to find some cheaper ways of living, good job Mumbai and Goa are India's dear spots. With a bit of luck I will be spending half as much per day elsewhere in India. I planned my future route through India, Nepal and China too. I have got bored of reading my India LP book, and started on my China one now. Can't wait!

On my last day in Palolem it absolutely pissed down! Nothing to do apart from wait for the right moment to leave. I didn't, it got even worse when I left, walking along the beach to the main road. completely soaked, I got a bus to the town and waited in the pouring rain. feeling wet and miserable, for a change!



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