The marmite of cities...

---

So here we are..the trip has begun and already it feels as though we've been away for so much longer than the week that it has been and Hong Kong already seems a distant memory. Hong Kong, we decided, is like marmite...you either love it or you hate it or sometimes both in equal measure. To be fair we didn't get of to the best start...us and Hong Kong. We arrived happily at the spotless airport (people in Hong Kong are OCDish about germs!) only to discover that although we had arrived safely and with our nerves intact thanks to a combination of alcohol, calms and a fairly uneventful flight, the same could not be said for Verity's bag which was still in London.
We then got on the shuttle to Kowloon not realising how massive Kowloon is and the fact that the shuttle is actually linked to their underground system...the MTR. So we got a bus to Nathan Road intending to find a hostel, but had also not realised that Nathan Road is actually the longest road in Hong Kong! After much trudging around with me wishing my backpack hadn't made it either and V becoming more relieved by the second for her loss, we managed to get the MTR to TST and found a hostel in the renowed (for all the wrong reasons) Mirador Mansions. We had been told that people stay there simply for the experience but to be honest it wasn't that bad. Our room comprised 2 single beds and a shower cubicle with the toilet and sink within it....very odd.....I managed to very succesfully flood the room my first time in there!

We freshened up and decided to head out to get some grub. We had been told that a good night out in HK comprised of dinner in Soho then drinks in La Kwai Fong followed by late bars in Wan Chai. So off we went sweaty and knackered but determined to enjoy our first night on the road. We couldn't find Soho that first night so ended up in a local resturant down a side street where we ate noodle soup before hopping on the MTR to Kwai Fong. We'd decided to buy a 3 day MTR pass which included a return trip to the airport. This turned out to be one of the best decisions we've made so far as we used it endlessly. As it turned out Kwai Fong is not the same as Lan Kwai Fong! We ended up at the other ed of the MTR line, both of us falling asleep, me on the lady next to me which we later discovered is frowned upon. They're not big on physical contact in HK. I never stopped finding it strange to see people walking around with masks over their mouths and noses. Apparently if you're ill there you cover up to prevent the spread of germs. We were told by an American guy we met that their immune systems are not up to much...a vicious circle I guess.

Anyway we made it back to Lan Kwai Fong which typically was right back where we'd started! It was buzzing! Very much a Greece or Spain type vibe although I would guess it's more young professionals than 18-30's. People were spilling onto the bar-lined street and the whole street was decorated for Halloween already. We had a good night but beer/alcohol is VERY expensive! The budget was blown pretty much instantly! I tried my first local beer and this has quickly become a habit....who'd have thought it...me drinking beer. We sat and chatted to the aforementioned friendly American and intended to meet him again the following night but unfortunately our email didn't get through.

Next day was pretty much spent sleeping in to a disgustingly late hour which turned out to be a good thing as it meant we were at the guesthouse for the much anticipated arrival of V's bag! Intact and with nothing missing. We do fully intend to complain to BA though in an attempt to get an upgrade on our final flight from Lima to London! Here's hoping! The day wasn't a complete wash-out as we then put our glad rags on (read threw on a dress) and headed out to The Peak. A short walk through the pretty Hong Kong Park, from Admirality MTR station, takes you to the base of The Peak where you take a tram up the mountain. We opted for the cheaper ticket that didn't give us access to the viewing tower. This was a good call as, although the viewing tower is an amazing feat of engineering, you get fantastic views taking the hour circular walk around and it was very peaceful and tourist free. There were also a few monkey bars so I took the first of many opportunities to release the inner (or not so much) child that those who know me know so well, by doing a couple of apple turnovers! We then headed to Wan Chai but we didn't stay out long as, after not being able to find an open local resturant we ended up having pizza and wine at what we thought may well have been a lesbian bar. We then checked out 'Dusk til dawn', a recommended bar, that was very very cheesy and full of the not good type of tourist. We decided to save our money and energy and headed back to get a decent nights sleep. Another good decision as the last day was by far the best and actually swung our opinion back in HK's favour.

We got up and headed to the MTR to catch the tube and then a bus out to Shek O national park to do the Dragons Back hike. It was great to be out of the city and we found ourselves unprepared for the lack of smog as we had no hats, sunscreen or enough water! We did however make the 2 hours and loved the views and the chance to get our heart rates going and work up a bit of a sweat. We then checked out a local market. What amazed me was how fresh everything was. Fish was still flipping about and we saw one huge one that had been cut open but still had it's heart beating! How that's even possible I have no idea! Certainly not the place for a vegetarian! We had lunch at a very local place where we probably provided gossip for the rest of the day as we were the only Westerners in there. We had some delicious chinese tea and dim sum. We felt pretty proud of ourselves to be honest as we had pretty much no idea what was in it! Pork we hope!

We then wandered around the financial district. It didn't cease to amaze me how they have beautiful new sky scrapers and malls right next to decrepit high rise buildings...very stange! Then we headed to Avenue of the Stars, potentially my favourite part of the few days we had there. The view over the harbour is to die for there...colorful lights dancing across the river. This was the Kowloon side and apparently there are fireworks here every night but unfortunately we missed them as we'd checked out the mid level escalators on our way there. These were awesome. Basically there are travelators that take you up through Soho (yes we finally found it!). It's a bizarre experience as you ride them up bar-lined streets through the city! We took advantage of happy hour here to with a couple of chilled glasses of wine. If you come to HK and want to drink, do it before 9pm. Everywhere has happy hour which basically just equates to non-rip-off prices!

After Avenue of the Stars we checked out Temple St night market. Worth looking at but mostly tat.

So over all the experience was good. I find it hard to be overly critical as the good out-weighed the bad in the end but I would say come with a guide and a large budget. It's like London in that way although to be fair it is easier to find cheap things to do during the day and the MTR puts our underground system to shame!

It is marmite but ultimately......I love marmite!

---