Day 9

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Day 9 - Wednesday, April 9 2008

I’ve never been one for gloating. Those who know me well will vouch that the words ‘I told you so’ are not even in my phrase-book, but being proved right is always a source of profound satisfaction. And so it turned out today. Yet again.

By mid-morning we were making excellent progress towards Hong Kong while I was busy researching how serial time-zone crossings affect day-time sleep patterns. I was coming to the conclusion that the effects are minimal (especially for people who have made the effort to learn how to doze off at will), when my inner consciousness sensed a change of motion. Had we slowed down?

That’s another benefit of self-disciplined sleep training. The mind learns to ignore extraneous and irrelevant distractions like ‘On yer bike, dog-breath, you promised to go to the supermarket with me today’ but is instantly on the qui vive for matters of importance.

A glance out the porthole confirmed that we had not only slowed down, we were almost at a halt. Better go topside and investigate. It was getting near time for the noon sighting, anyway. Judging from our wake, we were drifting in a wide circle. And a look at our course-tracking plotter showed that we were tracing a figure-of-eight.

“Correcting deviations,” the skipper explained, scribbling figures against a table of compass directions as they came and went on the two-way radio. Our magnetic compass was being checked against the master gyro, and sure enough there were marked deviations from true. What was I saying yesterday about global warming and its effect on compass needles?

The process is known as ‘swinging the compass’ and is evidently a mandatory requirement by the International Bureau of Shipping to ensure that inaccuracies do not lead to accidents. The supreme maritime authority even insists that rectifying of compass irregularities must be undertaken at least once a year. Otherwise, no certificate of seaworthiness. That just goes to show how serious and prevalent these deviations can be. So, my unerring analysis of why my calculations were three miles out has been corroborated at the highest levels. How pleasing. George Bush must be informed immediately!

Important as the compass correction procedure is, opportunities at sea are very rare, said mon capitaine. We had the chance because were well ahead of schedule for Hong Kong. The harbour pilot was not due on board until 1600, so we could either idle about or do something useful. Like myself, our skipper always takes the active option. And as it was too early for the wardroom dispensary to be operational, we might as well check the compass. Hence the figure-of-eight course: swing the ship around 360◦ and then loop back on a reciprocal path, thus enabling the checking of accuracy at every point of heading.

There was even time left for a leisurely lunch - and more work on the somnology research - before the pilot arrived.

Then began an enthralling few hours. Weather conditions were moist and misty as we entered the Hong Kong approaches, but visibility was still pretty reasonable. Again, heavy sea-going traffic of all descriptions, but the real attractions lay shore-side. Wooded hillsides suddenly give way to high-rise and high-density urbanisation. A London Eye-style wheel sits on a cliff top - along with a roller-coaster. Picturesque islands are overshadowed by power-station cooling stacks. Floating dry-docks lie in front of glamorous-looking apartments and hotels.

What’s that big building up there with the huge wall around it? Probably the US embassy, pass the binoculars. Almost, but not quite. It’s the jail - with gun turrets spaced around the perimeter. A big sign proclaims ‘We Care’. Yes, I’m sure you do, and happy to take your word for it.

We’re not going into Hong Kong proper but we catch a glimpse of the waterfront off to starboard with Kowloon opposite. More high-rise and high-density, with what could pass for a Burj Dubai wannabe taking shape and topped by cranes. It’s 30 years since I was last in Hong Kong and it seems to have changed beyond recognition. Multi-lane highways snaking round the hillsides. Towering electricity pylons marching into the distance. New suspension bridges everywhere and more being built. Is there enough head-room to pass under the one we’re approaching? Only just. (We’ll post a pic when high-speed connection becomes available). Maybe like Hong I have changed as well. There’s more of us, for starters. Especially since I’ve been on board Tosca.

Our speed was down to 10 knots as we nudged our way northward. On Tosca that seemed like standing still. In our yachtie days, it would have equated to overdrive. Time to change pilots. The Hong Kong Pilot Service is responsible for HK approaches; after that, China Pilot takes over. The duplication seems a bit unnecessary as effectively we’re still in the same waters, but presumably this was one way of retaining some autonomy after the colonial lease expired.

Our course ran parallel with the new Hong Kong airport, where the runway juts out to sea. The overhead traffic was just about as busy as at water level, with a non-stop succession of take-offs and landings as we passed. Nearing Chiwan, our port of destination, the landscape - and seascape - changed. For nearly an hour we crept by what seemed a never-ending container terminal. Forests of cranes as far as the eye could see, and stacks and more stacks of boxes. The only interruption was yet another power station, thoughtfully built right on the wharfside so the coaling ships can deliver right to point of consumption.

Bang on time - about 10 minutes short of 1900 - we came alongside our berth in Chiwan. It had to be our berth - it was the only vacant slot visible, but from our lofty perch on the wing of the navigation deck it looked tiny for a ship this size.

Parallel parking skills of the highest order would be needed. Just as well we don’t have a woman driving. The escorting tugs now swung into action and we were nudged sideways into position, just ahead of our CMA-CGM sister ship, Wagner. For a moment, it looked as if our stern was going to snag Wagner’s mooring lines, but appearances can be deceptive. We had all of 20 metres to spare.

With the ship safely secured and snugged down, it’s now time for shore leave. The agent will soon be on board to take our papers for clearance by the customs and immigration people. That’s where our new status as supernumerary crew members comes in so handy. We have the photo ID, the serial numbers, and the clip-on plastic badges to prove it. As passengers, our Chinese visas stipulate only single entry, so we would have been forced to choose which port to visit. This way, we can see them all. ‘Merci, Capitaine Auvinet!’

Noon position 21◦51.20 N - 114◦25.74 E
Day’s run to noon - 569 miles
4,738 miles out from Khor Fakkan
Heading 027.7◦
Local time GMT+8
Average speed - 23.7 knots

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