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Published: August 10th 2005
Hong Kong Island by night
What a captivating skyline!Our trip from Dali to Kunming was characterised by a new motorway with three lanes, very little traffic and high speed. After staying in India for more than three months, we had lost the notion of speed, moving by bus at an intermediate speed of 30 km/h and the trains were not much faster there. In China we got this notion back, this bus for example was driving at a maximum speed of 120 km/h! Already upon our arrival, Kunming presented itself as a modern, bustling city with a lot of new roads on two storeys and much traffic, so that we got caught in traffic jams indeed. The bus terminal where we arrived was also hyper modern, it also contained the train station, not a bad idea after all. Jerry, a Californian whom Klaudia had met in the lobby of the hotel Mandala in Lhasa, had recommended the Camillia Hotel to us. In this respect we trust other travellers a lot, up to now their recommendations had always pleased us, so we went there without hesitation. At first we hardly dared enter, it looked very glitzy, limos parked in the driveway, pages in livery waiting for the guests' luggage and
Hong Kong firework
As a special event during summer weekends, Hong Kong is lit up by fireworks set off from the skyscrapers an expensive curio shop next door. When we were in, we discovered that they only charged us 250 Yuan for a very nice triple room, breakfast buffet included. We would like to thank all fellow travellers who shared something of their experience with us and gave us many precious tips and we hope that we could give something in return. In the hotel lobby we saw the German bicycle group again, whom we had met in Dali two days before, who spent some of their last days before returning in Kunming. This time we clearly did not travel off the beaten tracks! This evening we only looked for some food close to the hotel (which unfortunately was the worst Chinese meal we had had so far) and discovered a brightly illuminated modern Chinese town.
Next morning we had a quick breakfast and then took a taxi to
Kunming's Public Security Bureau to enquire about our visas. We had everything ready, two small photos, our passports of course and Peter even had his invitation letter to the conference in Dalian with him. It's better to be safe than sorry… We immediately found the counter we needed and approached it energetically
After the firework
Some smoke is still jetting from the IFC tower as there was nobody else waiting. The clerk quickly sifted through the papers we had handed him, then he curtly informed us that he could not extend our visas because they were group visas and therefore could not be extended individually, despite the fact that each one of us was a group on their own. He was not even impressed by Peter's official invitation letter from Beijing. Nothing could move this face of stone. He told us we could try in Beijing, but there was no guarantee and furthermore we could run into trouble because the visas were valid only this same day. So our only choice was to leave China, get a regular visa and come back. Now we knew that the information we had got at the travel agency in Kathmandu had been wrong and the only place where the group visa may perhaps have been extended was Lhasa (we later learned on from another travelblog entry that some travellers had managed to get their group visa extend in Chengdu as a very special favour). We were quite desperate and even considered sticking to our original plan and go on to Sichuan province, then spend some days with
Brilliant illumination
The smaller of the two IFC towers and The Centre building to its right Peter in Beijing, from there Stephan and Klaudia would have chosen another way to Hong Kong. But we abandoned this plan, maybe we would not have got hotel rooms without visas and we were not especially keen on meddling with the Chinese police. We rushed back to the hotel and enquired about flights to Hong Kong in its travel agency. But the lady working there tried to talk on her mobile phone and to serve two customers at the same time, not very effective, so we inscribed for the hotel shuttle bus to the airport at 12:30. We would have loved to see more of Kunming, e.g. the stone forest, and the rest of China but the Chinese did not want us to. The airport of Kunming was as modern as the bus/train station, only quite small and provincial after all. All we could do now was to find a flight the same day, not too expensive if possible. Stephan tried everything he could to find a cheap flight, but there was only one flight available with Dragon Air. The price was rather high (ca. EUR 200) but we had to take it anyway. The flight would depart in only
Playing with light in Hong Kong
The famous Hong Kong Bank Building by Norman Foster, arguably the city's most expensive skyscraper two hours and furthermore it was at least one hour delayed, we were quite bored and our nerves were on edges, which resulted in Peter and Stephan quarrelling.
Finally the plane took off and only short time afterwards we landed in
Hong Kong, South East Asia’s metropolis. The arrival formalities passed quickly, you get a visa on arrival for free, apart from that you only need enough money to enjoy Hong Kong. The city had been on Stephan’s and Klaudia’s itinerary anyway, they had only planned to be there around one month later. So the three of us were in Hong Kong and we did not know where to stay in a decent place without overspending too much. From personal experience both Stephan and Peter knew the city’s most notorious backpackers place, Chungkin Mansion a windowless, stuffy and extremely narrow ‘hotel’. Stephan had been there 17 years ago and Peter a couple of years ago, when he spent some time with his second son Alex in Hong Kong. Then Peter remembered having seen places to stay along the mid-level escalators, so Stephan stayed behind with the luggage at the terminal of the airport express, while Klaudia accompanied Peter in
Room with a view
This is what we saw when we looked out of our hotel room early in the morning... the heavy rain on the lookout for a hotel. The escalators are a fine thing, however they only run one way (downwards until 10 a.m. and upwards the rest of the day until midnight), and you hardly ever get wet except when you have to leave them. This is precisely the experience Peter and Klaudia made, they drove till the very end and unfortunately had not seen a single hotel on the way. There may well have been some but they were not visible from the escalator. They did not exactly know what to do but had to decide pretty quickly as it had started raining cats and dogs. On the city map they had with them, one hotel was mentioned not far away, in addition it was situated close to the Botanical Garden, which appealed to both of them. On entering the elegant lobby of the hotel Bishop Lei, both of them drenched and Klaudia wearing Peter’s jacket which was definitely too big for her, a man behind the reception desk only raised one eyebrow and asked: ”Oh, is it raining again? It has rained the whole last month, you know.” They did not feel very comfortable but brought
The Centre building at dawn
Another view from our hotel room themselves to see a room nevertheless not knowing where to turn to otherwise. The room was fine, only extremely small, and the bathroom was clean, too, with all necessary facilities and the price was not too high for Hong Kong (450 HKD = ca. 45 EUR for a double room), so there was not much discussion necessary to accept the rooms. It was decided that Klaudia would stay behind, while Peter would go to pick up Stephan and the luggage and lead him to the hotel. While Klaudia enjoyed a hot shower and prepared some cups of hot tea that were all provided for, Peter took the stairs in the rain and he and Stephan used the escalators again to reach the hotel. This hotel was really nicely situated, actually not very far from the wonderful Botanical Garden and the Hong Kong Zoo as well. Peter was fine in his room, he was alone in a double room and so he had enough space, but Stephan and Klaudia were slowly developing claustrophobia and getting mad in their tiny room. Thus we went hunting for another place to stay, not on Hong Kong Island (former Victoria Island) this time but rather
Hong Kong Convention Centre
Seen from the ferry on our way to Kowloon in the region of Kowloon, where the cheaper hotels are to be found. We only had a rather old guidebook with us and Hong Kong is such a dynamic city and we did not find anything that pleased us, when Peter remembered another hotel mentioned in the city map, actually not very far from Bishop Lei, even closer to the Botanical Garden. It may not have been very far by bird’s flight, but if you want to walk in Hong Kong you sometimes have to accept huge detours in order to arrive safely, what we did to come to the
YWCA Guesthouse with the promising name Garden View. The building was high, very modern, and when we saw the suite which was perfect for the three of us, we immediately fell for it despite its price of 1,050 HKD. It consisted of one living room with a sleeping sofa, a table with four chairs, a small kitchen with an oven and a fridge, and a bedroom with a nice bathroom. As the room was on the 16th floor and one wall consisted practically only of windows, we had a breath-taking view on the Botanical Garden and the skyscrapers in the
Skyline with a ferry
The tall building with the two masts is the Bank of China Tower background, it was especially gorgeous in the night when all the lights were on! There was a supermarket close by, well stuffed with European and American brands, all very expensive and made to feel the expats more at home, but we at least bought the drinks and breakfast stuff there, so we had a nice family breakfast every day of our stay in Hong Kong.
This time we would like to give our dear readers the conclusion first. Hong Kong is an amazing place, a big, bustling, active but very friendly city in a beautiful setting, by the sea in a very hilly and green landscape. We admit that it is not a very cheap place but is definitely worth the money, although we would not call it a backpackers’ main destination. Just separated from our hotel by a big street lay the
Hong Kong Zoo and Botanical Garden, and it was always a source of pleasure for us to walk through, admire the beautiful plants and observe the animals displayed. The city of Hong Kong attaches much importance to offering a wide array of nice public space to its inhabitants an visitors, the government adheres to the opinion
Hong Kong ferry
The most interesting means of transport between Hong Kong Island and Kowloon (at least for tourists) that wherever he crowds live together in limited space, it is essential to offer something for their soul and detract their minds from work as life is much more than just work. A fascinating concept which absolutely seems to pay off, Hong Kong’s public places are used by a lot of people and their varied offers eagerly accepted. The Hong Kong Zoo is just one example for this. The entrance is for free, the number of animal species it contains is limited and it focuses on wildlife of the region, which makes it relatively easy to maintain. We were fascinated by the monkeys and apes, especially the cage with the orang-utans (among them a large male one), and we were not the only ones, everybody flocked there to watch these beautiful apes in their orange fur munch fruit or move around by swinging their long arms. We did not explore the zoo at full length, but were always happy to pass by the birds’ cages on our way downhill, as we usually walked this direction. At a small distance downhill form our hotel we found ourselves in the
Hong Kong Park and its main attraction, the 3,000 square metre
Edward Kowloon skyline
Kowloon has its share of tall buildings, too Youde Aviary. Open to the public every day from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m., this amazing territory was inaugurated in 1992 and is named after the Governor of Hong Kong from 1982 to 1986. In this walk-through aviary, the free-flying birds are enclosed by a steel mash suspended over four large arches spanning a terrain striving to simulate rain forest with trees, shrubs, a forest streambed with shallow pools and small waterfalls ideal for the water fowl. The visitor walks on an elevated walkway made of wood and is so able to admire a multitude of birds from
Malesia (=a botanical region from the Malaya Peninsula, the Philippines, all the Indonesian islands to New Guinea and the Bismarck Archipelago). We spent a wonderful time inside and were always happy when we spotted a bird, which is not as easy as in cages since the birds can live in their natural habitat (though in limited space of course), we walked to and fro at leisure, at certain spots we lingered longer, to watch a beautiful pelican for example. Klaudia was really amazed and positively surprised by the sheer amount of green, splendid flowers and tropical plants which naturally thrive in the
Tropical Hong Kong
Lush green vegetation is everywhere to be found in Hong Kong humid and warm climate, which made her gardener’s heart green with envy. Stephan and Peter had told her about it, but in any case you have to see and experience all of Hong Kong’s facets to believe it.
Although Hong Kong is provided with excellent and abundant
public transport, we discovered big parts of it on foot. We usually walked downhill from our hotel, only once Stephan and Klaudia decided to dare the way uphill, we were drenched in sweat but had found a charming path through parks and past splendid hotels and villas. A pedestrian’s life in Hong Kong is rather easy-going, it is practically possible to reach any place you wish on foot, but never on the busy streets and neither on the pavement since this hardly exists. You walk on separate lanes which are very often built over the streets, and in order to spare people the torrential rains during monsoon season you find kilometres of covered galleries, which at one point or another always pass through a tall building. Peter explained that there is a law obliging each skyscraper to be open for public crossing and to contain shopping galleries, interesting concept of city planning
Bank of China Tower
Famous building by I.M. Pei erected as a counterpart to Norman Foster's Hong Kong Bank indeed. So the pedestrian crossing constitutes an absolute rarity in Hong Kong. As our hotel lay at midlevel, we also profited at length from the escalators, mainly on our way uphill, if we did not use a taxi to come back to the hotel. Taxis are a quite cheap way to move around in town, there are plenty around, they all use metres and almost for the first time on our trip there was no need to negotiate a price and we were spared the unpleasant feeling that somebody tried to rip us off. We did not stay long enough to study the bus system and due to the extensive and complicated network declined to make use of it, although it would certainly be worth trying. Instead we fell for the narrow tramways and made frequent use of this cheap and antiquated means of transport in this hypermodern city. Hong Kong’s charm and attractiveness is precisely based on the fact that there are other sides to it than only the modern city with
breath-taking skyscrapers. Hong Kong is a very cosmopolitan place, it for instance boasts a large population of Filipinos, very many of them working as maids or doing
any low manual work that a real Hong Kong Chinese would not condescend to. At the weekends in their free hours, they gather in the streets, in parks or any other kind of public space, in order to socialise among their kind. Mostly young women, they sit together or stretch out on the grass, eating, drinking and chattering their time away and obviously having a lot of fun. What a lovely sight they were, a picture of unbridled joie de vivre! It seems that these people are used to living outside, that their community life happens mostly in the streets, a phenomenon that Stephan and Klaudia had already observed in India with astonished eyes and minds. Of course the modern buildings fascinated us a lot, especially Peter being an architect, we particularly liked the new IFC (International Finance Centre), the Lippo Centre and the Hong Kong Convention & Exhibition Centre, which reminded us a bit of a space ship. There are so many more and it is impossible and useless to enumerate them all, by walking around a lot we simply entered many of them and thereby got the chance to admire them from the inside as well, whereas the
Fragile equilibrium?
Representing the Chinese People's Liberation Army Forces Hong Kong Building... parts that are accessible this way mainly consist of up-beat shopping centres. This is another of Hong Kong’s characteristics: it is a gigantic shopping mall, where you find all the luxury products you dream of on Hong Kong Island and also cheap electronics, clothes, food and restaurants in Kowloon.
Hong Kong Island is separated from
Kowloon by a narrow strip of sea, for the crossing of which you may use a tunnel, the metro or one of the frequent ferry links. We used the metro only once, it is clean, quick and efficient, but most of the time crossed by ferry as it most attractive for sightseeing ends. From the ferry, Stephan had some problems recognizing the Victoria (now Hong Kong) Island he had seen on his previous visit 17 years ago. In the meantime Hong Kong had grown considerably (literally!) by reclaiming land from the sea and many recent buildings have been built on reclaimed land, e.g. the afore mentioned IFC and Hong Kong Convention Centre. If they go on like this, Hong Kong Island might one day have to be renamed, not being an island any longer! You get wonderful views of the modern skyline on the
island (ideal for pictures), can observe the heavy ship traffic and get glimpses of Kowloon’s piers and tall buildings lining the shore. Especially in the evenings, one of Kowloon’s main attractions is the view of the artfully illuminated skyscrapers on Hong Kong Island. A huge number of tourists flock there to take pictures themselves, or they succumb to the offer of numerous photographers. These are present with all imaginable digital equipment: cameras, colour printers and computers with photo processing programmes, and in the twinkling of an eye you get a poster of yourself before the skyscrapers at night. During summertime, there is a weekend special with
fireworks set off from the top of the skyscrapers at 8 p.m., and we were lucky to be in Hong Kong on its national holiday (July 1st, reunification day), where particularly long and colourful fireworks were displayed. Kowloon has its share of skyscrapers as well, but its main characteristics is a maze of narrow streets clogged with traffic and pedestrians, lively and bustling at almost any hour of the day and night. It is there where Hong Kong is very Chinese, with myriads of little shops and tiny restaurants where excellent Chinese cuisine is
The famous Hong Kong tramway
Anachronistic means of transport, but what a pleasure for tourists served at very reasonable prices. When Peter was in Hong Kong with his son Alex, they used to eat in a small family restaurant famous for its wantan soup, he actually found it again and we ate excellent dishes there several times. Peter wanted to acquire a new digital camera, and Hong Kong was definitely the right place for that. So we moved from one of Kowloon’s electronics shops to the next, where prices are never fixed and seemed to be set according to the shop assistant’s liking. After some tough bargaining and shopping around he found what he liked and also some additional accessories for a good price. We neither could miss another Kowloon attraction, its huge night market. There is definitely something for everyone, some things you buy simply because they are cheap, and it is great fun after all. Still, Kowloon has other things on offer, like nice parks and once we came across a fantastic swimming pool which featured a gorgeous outdoor area with waterfalls and jacuzzi spots - we would have loved to jump in for a quick refreshment! Close to this recreation facility we came to a Chinese temple that we could unfortunately admire
Chinese Hong Kong
Neon lights abound in many parts of Hong Kong and Kowloon only from the outside as it was already past opening hours. Still we walked round to get a better impression and there we encountered several groups performing traditional Chinese music, elderly men playing unknown and weird-looking musical instruments, while ladies dressed like opera singers were singing songs that seemed to consist only of a few very high-pitched tones. Well, we are no experts in Chinese music and apologize for our amateurish description. However, we were fascinated although we rather disliked this style of music.
One day, we decided to tread the beaten tourist track which led us to the Taoist
Man Mo Temple, a temple dedicated to Man, God of Literature, and Mo, God of Martial Valour. Built in 1848 during the early years of British rule, the temple is one of the oldest and most famous temples in Hong Kong. People pray to the pair of deities in the hope that their children will inherit the wisdom of Man and the strength of Mo. Right at the entrance we were warmly welcomed by two young men who introduced themselves as ‘Young ambassadors of Hong Kong’, college students who act as guides in major tourist destinations. They were very
Delicious Hong Kong
Another one of Hong Kong's attractions friendly and rather knowledgeable and eager to answer any forthcoming questions. After entering through the bright red lacquered door, we immediately discovered one of the characteristics of Taoist temples: coils of incense in different sizes dangling abundantly from the ceiling and smoking up to one week according to their size. A really fascinating variety of the widespread incense sticks, which we had not seen so far. The temple itself was rather small, containing images of the two gods to whom it is dedicated, where people offered donations so that their wishes might be fulfilled. In an adjacent room, the unavoidable fortunetellers were seated, where you could discover your destiny by shaking a bamboo cylinder containing fortune sticks - the number on the first stick to fall out corresponding to a suitably ambiguous written fortune.
For us, Hong Kong was not only a fascinating city to visit, we also profited from its excellent infrastructure in many ways. Though internet access was very fast throughout, we had some trouble finding places that would fit our requirements. This is not due to the fact that internet was hard to find but because we needed it for many hours to type our entries
Typical Chinese shop
Sometimes you don't want to know what articles are on offer... (e.g.: dried sea horses and other rare animals) in travelblog and for uploading the pictures we needed access to a USB port. But in Hong Kong use of the internet is free (we suppose almost every household uses it), so many cafes as well as hotels just put a couple of computers somewhere. You always have to stand, which is ok for a bit of surfing or writing a couple of emails, and since you do not pay for it you are logically expected not to block a machine for hours in a row. This was our dilemma, in the end we found some internet cafes (against payment) but these were mainly used by chain-smoking Chinese adolescents who played extremely noisy internet games for hours. Not the perfect conditions to work! Finally we resorted to a business centre opposite our hotel, which was well equipped with PCs, printers and photocopiers, but really expensive. But we had to fill in some forms for our health insurance, printed them out and made several photocopies we would need in the near future. Stephan and Klaudia also needed the third part of their hepatitis vaccination, they consulted the Hong Kong Central Hospital not very far from the hotel and close to the
Game of Chinese chess
Stephan resisted for a long time, but in the end he was defeated Government House. Thanks to Hong Kong’s excellent health system, everything was over within half an hour. Furthermore we wanted to get rid of some heavy items of our luggage in order to travel on more lightly, and sent a parcel to Peter’s address. Once again we were happy to be in Hong Kong, where friendly people and efficiency characterise the working style. Everything worked out fine and in addition the parcel was rather cheap, we paid about EUR 20 for 14 kg.
We also had to reconsider our future itineraries. For Peter everything was determined as he had to be in Dalian for his congress on architectural design, while Stephan and Klaudia decided against returning to China, but move somewhere else from Hong Kong. Stephan had already seen big parts of China on his 3 months trip 17 years ago and Klaudia was fed up with the Chinese mentality. She also had her pride and if the Chinese did not want her, she would not impose herself. As they had decided to fly to Indonesia (Bali) from Hong Kong, they of course tried to find the cheapest possibility, which they found in the low-cost airline Air Asia flying from
Man Mo Temple
Squeezed between apartment towers Macau. Stephan’s second brother Christian is in the airlines business, without his inside knowledge they would not have had a clue that Air Asia existed at all. So again the tickets were printed out in order to apply for an Indonesian visa. As Stephan and Klaudia had found out after a lengthy enquiry that Austrian citizens do not get a VOA (= visa on arrival) and the visa is only valid for 30 days, they could also book their return flight from Hong Kong. Otherwise it is impossible to get a visa for Indonesia, you have to give physical proof of your departure! In addition to that they applied in the last possible moment, as a result had to pay a rather hefty surcharge, and in the end the lady in the consulate refused to accept the paper that Air Asia had provided. The problem was that this airline is a ticketless one, you only get a booking number which is absolutely sufficient to get seats in the plane. But the booking confirmation was not enough for the Indonesian Consulate!!! Klaudia was rather desperate again and shortly considered returning to Europe. In the end, they got their visas and were
Man Mo Temple entrance
Beautiful lacquered door allowed to enter Indonesia. This country really does its best to chase backpackers and individual tourists away! Peter also needed a visa and flight, him for China and to Dalian. To make things less complicated, we did not organise it on our own but relied on the efficiency of a Hong Kong travel agency in Kowloon. In fact, they soon found a direct flight to Dalian (it seems not to be such a small place after all), he would again fly with Hong Kong’s official airline Dragon Air, and they had sufficient time to get him a visa. We were relieved to know how our respective journeys would go on, but also sad that we could not spend as much time together as we had originally planned.
We had managed to leave Hong Kong the same day, on July 6th. Peter checked in at the terminal of the Airport Express already, then he accompanied Stephan and Klaudia to the Government Pier on Hong Kong Island, where they were to take a ferry to
Macau as their plane departed from there. Peter had found a direct flight to Dalian, but it had been impossible to do the same (at acceptable
Incense coils
Interesting alternative to the widespread incense sticks prices) from Hong Kong to Bali, as Air Asia seems to shun the expensive airports. This time the price was more important than the comfort (they would spend the night on the airport and in the plane), Stephan and Klaudia had wanted to with as few flights as possible due to pecuniary restrictions. The ferry to Macau was a very fast one, and when we arrived we had a quick but tasty lunch at the pier. Like Hong Kong, the former Portuguese colony has also been integrated into China, but it has also kept its own currency (the MOP = Macau Pataca) with quite the same rate as the Hong Kong Dollar. In Macau the Hong Kong currency was accepted alongside the MOP, about which we were very glad, so we could easily get rid of the last remaining Hong Kong Dollars. China - one country, many systems!!! The city of Macau extends to the two islands of Coloane and Taipa, which are connected to the peninsula on mainland by one causeway and two bridges, a fascinating geographic situation. From the port we took a bus to the airport (situated on Taipa island), where we left the luggage because we
A lot of incense
The whole entrance area of the Man Mo Temple was filled with their smoke could not check in yet (it was around 4 p.m. and our flight was scheduled only at 2 a.m.). Without the backpacks we got along more easily and took another bus to the centre. The public transport system is also efficient here and the people are very friendly and helpful, but still Macau is not a second Hong Kong. It lacks much of the latter’s unbridled energy and it is clearly visible that the economic situation is not as rosy. The Chinese try everything to turn Macau into a second Las Vegas and at the same time strive to preserve what little is left of the city’s colonial past, they even aspire to declare the centre a World Heritage Site. Who knows, they might succeed, given their experience with bureaucratic procedures. When we reached the centre, it was almost dark, so we did not take any pictures and decided to bide our time by walking around. This way we discovered all the sights in the old town, several churches (one of them the famous façade of St. Paul's) and Chinese temples, an old theatre, houses of rich merchants and a miniature fort. We liked what we saw, it was all
Deities in the Man Mo Temple
'Man Mo' means civil and military, and the temple is dedicated to Man, the god of literature and Mo, the god of war quite nice but nothing special and we would not drive to Macau from far away only to see this place; when you are around, have a look. But we spent a couple of pleasant hours in this rather calm city with a relaxed atmosphere and even managed to spend the very last money on a delicious meal of seafood. The small airport of Macau was almost empty, and we waited on our flight to Kuala Lumpur, from where we would take another Air Asia flight to Bali. By the way, this airline is the first one where the seats are not reserved, rather strange, first come, first served!
China is a huge country with a long history of several millenniums, but it is culturally rather poor (compared to India, for example), too much has been destroyed in all periods of history, not only during the Cultural Revolution. This time we did not see very much of it, but Klaudia was lucky enough to visit an important palace and a famous old city, she could also experience the modern and booming China with Kunming and especially Hong Kong. For a first time visit, she lived to see some of China’s
Aviary in the Hong Kong Park
Built over a natural valley, the aviary covers an area of 3 000 square metres essential characteristics as well as the Chinese mentality. One aspect of Chinese culture that must not be neglected is the food, for us the Chinese cuisine is one of the best and most varied in the world. And the wonderful food we duly enjoyed!!!
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