Apologies

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Big apologies for how long it's taken me to write! What with crappy internet connection (including frequent power cuts), being ill, Aleko being ill, moving from pillar to post... I just haven't had the opportunity, until now.

And now? I am in Hong Kong, writing from an internet cafe in Kowloon, right by the water, while Aleko tries to recover from his chest infection.

But, that is now. It has been weeks since I last updated, and I don't think I could possibly do justice the downright MAYHEM that has occurred, throughout our journey in India. In a nutshell, Aleko and I have no desire to return - quite a change from the person (me) who gushed about how colorful and fun it is.

Shortly after my last entry, Ali and Rich went to another part of the hills - Kalumpoor, I believe it was called. Aleko and I stayed for a couple more days, before meeting the boys at New Jalpaiguri station, to see Richard off (his flight was from Calcutta, a week before Ali's, due to his graduation). Following this, Ali accompanied us back to Silliguri - the sister town, where there were a few hotels. Aleko and myself, trying to conserve our money, stayed in a complete dump of a place, but were able to point Ali to a nicer hotel, where we all dined until late (and on arriving back to our hotel, realized we were locked out. I won't bore you with the details, but finding some drunken rat to let us in, was not fun). Indeed, we dined at this hotel restaurant about 3-4 times before our train the following evening, as there was nothing else to do. Poor Aleko was beginning to feel very sick, and so instead of lug our big bags around, after check-out, in the heat, and try to find something to do, until our 10.30pm departure, we decided to book a room for the 3 of us, for the day, and just lounge around, eating junk food and watching HBO.

On a side note, Kick Ass is a crap movie. Do not bother watching it.

We had only been able to secure "waiting list" tickets for the train, so our departure was not definate; however, we were relieved to see our names on the sheet of confirmed tickets, on arrival. Ali was based in the same carriage, but further down, and Aleko and myself, near the door.

It was a tight squeeze, with lots of BO, and a pungent smell of urine coming from the bathroom. Lots of staring from Indian men, and a very stuffy night indeed.

After a fitfull sleep, we still had hours to occupy, as our train didn't arrive until near 5pm! It was a case of sitting in one place, making sure that no one else ousted you from it, for literally hours. We were lucky enough to be berthed with some sour, unfriendly Muslim men (Aleko tried to make conversation, but I think after he shouted at one of them for staring at me, they weren't in the mood to play).

I have had some interesting train rides, but I would be pushed to find one that was less tiresome than this. And we had the knowledge that we had another hour or so in a taxi to go to Varanasi, on arrival. Our final destination on the train was Mughalsrai Jct - a fine name, I'm sure you'll agree.

There is literally no way of conveying the pain and torture of this ride - the sights, the smells, the sounds. We felt the hours creep by at a deathly pace. The last hour or so, Aleko and myself played tick tack toe, with the entire Indian population staring over our shoulders. It honestly became too much, being under such scrutiny for over 18 hours.

Anyway, I'm shuddering just thinking about it. We all swore that this was the last train journey of such a length (ie. a commuter train - it stopped often - although it was called an express, that doesn't mean anything, as there are super express trains, and non-stop trains also), and in sleeper class (indeed, all three of us booked the A/C third class, which was a step up, on our next trips).

On arrival to MugglesRai, we jumped in an autorickshaw, and made our bumpy way to Varanasi. The scenery was beautiful - enhanced by the several men urinating on the roadside. It appeared to be some kind of bonding session, with literally row upon row of men letting nature take it's course. We sadly missed the opportunity of one bright young spark's urine making a perfect ark, with the sun glistening through.

Beautiful.

And so to the city of Buffalo and madness. Actually the buffalo are really cute, although enormous creatures! They trundle down to the Ganges to wash, every day, and then make their way back, to who knows where, afterward.

We were, as is Indian tradition, dropped off, not where we asked, but at a point where the driver tried to get us to go to his hotel of choice (thus claiming a commission). We said no, got out and tried to find the hotel Ali wanted to stay in (as Aleko and I had not yet decided upon ours). Fortunately, we located perhaps the only honest person in Varanasi, who showed us (with his friend, who possibly was also honest, although I don't want to push it) Assi Ghat (I had been there before, but due to the maze that is Varanasi, was not completely able to locate where we should be). We were met with lots of "Sir, Sir! You want hotel, sir!?!? I show you hotel!", and "rickshaw? rickshaw? tuk tuk? You want rickshaw?". This was to be the norm, every day in Varanasi, alas.

We both chose our hotels - Aleko and I went for one with slimey staff who were trying to rip us off. We got them down to 450 rupees, which I still think was too much, but we DID get a terrace with a view of the Ganges (which we never utilized). It was about 6 stories up, which wasn't ideal, given how Aleko was feeling. Still, it was somewhere to lay our heads.

Unfortunately, the time in Varanasi was, for the majority, time spent unwell. One early morning, when Aleko was feeling his worst, we headed for the travel clinic, where the doctor (who had before our arrival, been sleeping accross his desk, and seemed irritated to be woken up, even though it was about 6am), without doing any tests, told him he had allergies, and gave him some random medication. I thought this to be odd, and some hours later, we returned... BUT, to see a "lung specialist" we had to pay an extra 650 rupees. Why, of course!

Of course, we have insurance, but the hassle it is to get hold of the company (the hospital would not accept it, saying we had to call up, ourselves), plus, not being sure if the amount we were paying would be covered... well, we just went for it.... begrudgingly, on my part (which sounds awful - of course I wanted Aleko to be well, but I hate being so obviously ripped off). So, not only did Aleko get to speak to a specialist (after going to a kiosk and paying), he had to have an X-ray.... which I found odd, as every chest infection I have had, has been confirmed without xray... but ho-hum... more money. It reminded me of when I was in hospital in China. They wanted to do a lot of expensive tests, that seemed unnecessary. Boy, do I sound like a heartless bitch! Poor Aleko... I know, it was awful, but I was pretty convinced it was a chest infection, and he just needed some anti-biotics, and to stop being messed around.

So, they put him on some breathing aparatus, and finally, as I was also not feeling well... Aleko told me to go back to the hotel, and he would keep doing the treatment for a few more hours.

As it turned out, they loaded him up with about 6 different medications. I had gone to a chemist and bought some anti-biotics. Aleko emailed his cousin (who is a doctor) to ask about these, and told him his symptoms. His cousin responded after we'd already gone to the hospital, and told him to rest and take the anti-biotics. Basically, the doctors at the hospital were just taking advantage of us.

What a surprise.

I guess their medication did at least work (although I doubt he needed as much), and he was reimbursed for the allergy medication. Just farcical. Oh hello, you feel ill, have a runny nose? You have allergies. No, I won't bother doing any tests. Take these pills.

Idiot.

Anyway, us both being ill, we finally decided to upgrade to an aircon room. Marvellous. We asked the hotel, and they asked for 950... I think we got them down to 800. Fantastic!

Only not. We went out, came back, and the air con wasn't working... and nor was the fan. Aleko was livid, and got hold of a little surly runt, who worked there, to complain. The guy just made up a load of excuses, and we threatened to leave (demanding our money back). He whimpered a bit, and within a few minutes - what do you know? It was working!

So... it turns out, to save themselves money, they turn off the power to the aircon units... EVEN THOUGH WE JUST PAID FOR AN AIR CON ROOM!!!!

Unbelievable. We left anyway, demanding our money back. The hotel staff were pretty pissed at us, but oh well. And onto the next place. A nicer hotel (and more expensive). And cool!!! So cool!

Until a couple of hours later, where inexplicably, the air conditioning stops - this was at about 12am... and so we roast the rest of the night. Turns out, Varanasi has a lot of power cuts... and we don't get a refund.

Grrrrrrrr

This is making me feel irritated again!

And onto nicer things.... We did go to the Burning Ghat, where I'd been before, to see the burning of the bodies. Some nice *ahem* young man, offered us a better view ("I'm not asking for any money! I work here!"), and took us to a dilapedated building which was also used as a hospice. He said the old people there would accept an offering - anything that was on our hearts ("but wood for the burning is 150 rupees a pile, and they need several" hint hint).

We had a look, and then left, giving 150 rupees, between us, to an old woman - who originally was going to bless us (although we all said we were fine, and didn't want a blessing). Instead, she looked at the money, and gave us the stink-eye, before asking "What's this!??!". Apparently our heartstrings were supposed to be pulled into giving them more money. The I'm-not-asking-for-money guy was also unimpressed, although, to be fair, that's more than we'd pay to get into a museum... But apparently our pale skin means we owe them money, just for existing in their country.

I wasn't feeling too well, that day, but wanted to make an effort, as Ali only had a few more days left in the country, and I knew Aleko wouldn't let me go back to the hotel by myself... mainly because he likes to aggravate me, and throw stuff at me, and generally make my life more "interesting".

We ate lunch at a Korean restaurant, that I had been to previously, which was lovely, before trying to make our way out of the maze, to a rickshaw, and back to Assi Ghat.

During our time in Varanasi, we had adopted a Mediterranean restaurant (with Indian workers), as our go-to place for dinner, and this was a pleasant change from the diahorrea curries we'd been eating. Lots of lovely hummus with pitta, and lemon, ginger honey tea. Mmm!

Ali and Aleko went on a boat ride along the Ganges. This was on the evening I was feeling ill. I wasn't too upset to miss it, as I'd been on my last trip. It sounds like for the price they paid, they had the enjoyment of two old men trying to push their boat away from the walls of the ghats, where the current was dragging it, and narrowly missing the sewage that was flying at a rapid pace, into the Ganges.

I would continue, onto our trip to Delhi, but feel it would be of poor quality, like this entry. Apologies - there has just been too much to contend with!

I will try to update this blog further in the next few days. We are in Hong Kong, Aleko is still sick, and so I may have quite a bit of my own company for the following few days!

My love to you all. x

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