Day 7: Man Made Beauty

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It was a long wait for the bus this morning. For the experience, our leader decided that we should take the bus from Kowloon to Hong Kong Island rather than the MTR or the ferry. So there we were, stuck in traffic on a freezing cold air-conditioned bus watching 6 lanes of traffic collapse into one as we went into the Hong Kong tunnel.

With much joy, we arrived at the Bank of China, one of Hong Kong’s most iconic buildings. Taking the express lift to the 43rd floor, we gazed at the skyline in the early morning sun. Suffering from vertigo, it was not the most pleasant of experiences and I made my down again rather pronto!

Once reunited with the remainder of the group, we made out way to the tram stop where, boarding two trams, travelled to Western Market. Although this is a fine Edwardian building, it is a market and of very little interest!

After time to explore, we regrouped and headed to Possession Street. Initially, this was a little headland overlooking the beach that has now been reclaimed. However, it does mark the spot where the Union Flag was first planted back in 1841.

Continuing along Hollywood Road, we reached a number of temples, their heavy incense spilling out into the street. Stopping to inspect, we all emerged with streaming eyes and set off across the above-street-level walkways to Exchange Square where we caught a bus towards Stanley.

Stopping at Tai Tam, we dined before heading into the hills for a gentle walk through the trees before rejoining the bus route to Stanley, a major attraction with its own peninsula. Despite the opportunity to spend a day here, we were given just an hour to explore the market. So, after recuperating with a fresh coconut, I explored the bay, admiring the stunning scenery and the local wedding couple having their photographs taken.

Returning to the bus stop at the allotted time, I was greeted by two of the group wondering where everyone else was! I knew I was last but hadn’t expected to see so few. Taking control, we climbed aboard the bus and headed back to Central where we were greeted by our leader who explained that the bus had left early!

Not wanted a fish meal in an Indian restaurant, I’d arranged to meet my fellow renegade and we headed for a Peking restaurant on the water front recommended in the Rough Guide. Arriving at the reception, it was clear that it was a little more up-market than expected and, despite asking whether there was a dress code, we were taken to a suitable table. There on the table was beautiful bone china, black chopsticks with gold inlay and the most stunning menus. The staff were dressed in wonderfully embroidered costumes and, after ordering a set menu (so as to sample as much as possible) proceeded to dine on fine food whilst enjoying views over the harbour.

As we dined, we heard hammering behind us and just missed some ceremony or other whereby someone used a gold hammer to break into what appeared to be a Christmas Pudding. Not to be disappointed, we noticed another such dish being prepared and watched as our neighbouring table also went through the same ceremony. We eventually decided that, as part of a family celebration, two recent graduates were being treated to this treat. Once the clay coating had been broken, the waiter took the dish to one side, continued to break it open whereupon a waft of aniseed was released. The waiter continued to filet the chicken contained therein but carefully placed the wishbone on the meat before taking the dish back to the appropriate table.

Later, the chef wheeled out a wooden cart and proceeded to roll and stretch a ball of dough. As he twisted and stretch the dough, we realised he was making noodles and, before long, had produced the most amazing hand made noodles. To the applause of the guests, he bowed, scooped up the dough and went to a different part of the restaurant where he repeated his skill to others.

On leaving the restaurant, we decided to walk back up Nathan Road and back to the hotel via the Night Market. For those not used to the less touristy side of the Far East, this would have been a real eye-opener. Many stalls for the benefit of the local Chinese population were spread over the closed streets in the cooler night air. Fortune tellers plied their trade amongst the stalls selling noodles and dim sum whilst others sold Chairman Mau memorabilia. It was so delightful slowly walking up through the stalls before arriving back at the hotel, a shower and bed!

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