Far East of Georgia, Kakheti

---

Far East of Georgia, Kakheti



During the course of human events in Georgia there have been many times invading armies overwhelmed Georgian a Kings and rulers, but it wasn't without a fight from amazing defense structures to protect the fertile ground of east Georgia.



After several days of visiting Archils school and local community once again he came home with some good news this past Tuesday - he announced told me we were going to Kakheti Region tomorrow.



East-southern Georgia is referred to as the Kakheti Region, and not unlike other regions we have visited, it is unique and beautiful by itself.



Many travelers know the region for the technique of Georgian wine making that is said to have originated in the region some 4,000 years ago, with over 700 unique grape types grown within the country.



Before heading out for the day we had to pick up Archils friend, David or Dato in Georgian. I had met David the night before during a supra at Archils house and learned David works with the UN Youth Programs in Georgia. During our initial drive towards the Kakheti region Archil briefed me on the relevance of it.



First, Archils relatives and ancestors were from the Kakheti region in the east. Conversely, Salome, Archils wife, is from the west. As a bit of information for you I was told here is a fairly noticeable difference between he west and east Georgian, with West Georgians being more likely to smile and be more diplomatic, while eastern Georgians are known for be a bit more to the point. I didn't really pick up the differences too much in the beginning, but I could see where that commentary has some truth.



Second, due to the geography being a bit more flat and easier to conquer the Kakheti region of Georgia saw many invasions, which I will provide some commentary on later in the post.



Third, and importantly, the region produces some excellent wine.



Our first stop was Ujarmi - a site worth visiting if you drive from Tbilisi. It features a monastery, that will be restored further, but offers excellent views. However, if you have trouble climbing or hiking up a steep incline you may have trouble visiting the site. It was captured many times by invaders, but the entire site is as it was centuries ago. I believe Archil told me it was from the 12th or 7th century. I know these are some pretty different time periods, but if you can keep a accurate catalog of the age of the buildings we visited straight email me your system since the information can be overwhelming to take in during one trip. It reminded me of the scene in the US in the classic movie watched often in our house, Gettysburg. There is a scene where General Chamberlain leads his men down little round top during the battle, and as I look out from monastery on hill tops and castles on mountains I get the impression there were many times this types of battle, with few at the top against an overwhelming force happened often during ancient times in Georgia.



After returning from his site to our car we were greeted by the local Georgians in the area and they shared opinions and frustration about the current government. Apparently the government would not let them sell locally produced food and beverage at the tourist destination. The topic of Georgia's current government and it's lack of clear direction was a point we came back to time and again during our time in Kakheti.



After we were on the road for a bit, passing sheep herds, "forestry officers" (code for cows on the road), and the seemingly endless amount of Wineyards we stopped at the peak of a mountain, at the White Restaurant. As with many restaurants in Georgia Archil knew what to order. Plates of fresh bread, beef stew, fresh tomatoes and cucumbers started arriving at our table and we washed down this meal with a Georgian Pilsner. After satisfying our stomachs and quenching a thirst we drove down the mountain to Gremi.



I believe Gremi Castle was built in 1527 by a king. His was a period after the 12th century, which many consider he Golden Age for Georgia. Prior to the 12th century Georgia had been invaded during three separate Muslim armies.



Out of all the churchs, monasteries, and castles I visited I found Gremi to be the most interesting. Attached is a picture. The castle sits on a very small hill versus other castles we visited, and it is made of the typical brick, stone and mortar Georgian buildings were made from many years ago. After buying something from the gift store for a relative, I proceeded to enter the monastery. Something was different. As I stood there and looked around the closed sacred quarters it became readily apparent - there were many elaborate paintings but few had faces. The faces had been scratched off or erased from he walls. Archil explained that very time an army invade the Kakheti region in the later centuries and due to Russian and Ottoman invasions they would erase or damage the art on the walls so as to erase the people from the history of the world. The topic of invading armies means something very deep to Georgians and can help you better understand the national pride and sense of self that separates the country from the rest of Europe and Asia. Each time an invading army conquered a town all were vulnerable, men, women and children. The conquerors often adopted a no prisoner policy and it can be said that from many Georgians I speak to that Muslim invasions of the past heavily influenced the resiliency of this nation state and culture. The people are united with ancestors who escaped unspeakable atrocities no Hollywood director could completely capture or understand. Last night I was walking on the well known Peace Bridge in Georgia and as aArchil and I looked out at Tbilisi I asked Archil to express his thoughts on Georgia, I think he did an excellent job summing up the implications of the past history Georgians have endured, and carry with them in their lives. Appreciation for the past, gratitude for those that have endured so much, and pride in the country and the hope he will live on the make his country, the Republic of Georgia better for all Georgians and the world. It was after this moment we moved to the third point of the trip, but not the last, wine.



We drove into a small town, in a rural part of the Kakheti Region and pulled up to the house of Archils aunt and cousin. I took a picture of Archil standing next to the families Soviet Era car. We entered the house, had greetings and sat down to drink coffee, and eat grapes grown in the vineyards next to the house. I was given a tour. There were many acres of grapes around, many fruit trees, and as I walked along the exterior porches of the house I could see the various herbs and fruits drying. Archil explained that in his family they grow and preserve food to store it for winter. As we made our way upstairs I was again reminded of the hospitality of the Georgian people. The entire second floor is only used for guests. I took a look inside and it seemed to resemble a French farmhouse with hard wood floors with open windows making all rooms seem very inviting. I was surprised the family left the second floor to guests, as it tends to be the warmest area of many houses and Georgian winters can be very cold. Yet another example of the selfless nature of the Georgian people.



I walked to the basement with the family and saw shells full of preserved fruits and vegetables, and the main event - their personal wine materials. I walked towards Longi, Archils cousin, who had taken a wood stick and was stirring a pot in the ground and I could see and smell the wine as the grapes had been fermenting for about a month. As aArchil explains in the video below, Georgians typically use all elements of the grape, in a specially formed ceramic or clay vat placed in he ground and then stored in a barrel passed down from Archils great grandfather.





The last place we journued to before heading home was the town of sighnaghi. Like the old town in Tbilisi it was checkered with red roof tops, tightly wound stone roadways and some epic views of the surrounding mountains. We reviewed a castle that bears resemblance to the Great China Wall. It was an excellent trip east. The day ended with talk of the reforms needed to move Georgia forward over Turkish Coffee. What an excellent experience, and my second to last post on this blog will feature a How To Supra guide to bring a bit of the Georgian experience to your life and I will conclude with a summary post.



Sincerely,



Tim

---