Namtso and our travels on the Friendship Highway

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Mon 20 July - After zaofan (breakfast) we and our kit left Lhasa in a 4X4 Toyota land cruiser heading north-east bound for Namtso Lake, the highest freshwater lake. 2-3 hours of bumpy roads but great scenery later we entered the Namtso area (80¥ pp) and then started to gain real height. After an hour of climbing and winding and using the full potential of the gearbox (only 4 speed sadly) we stopped for fried rice in a small backwater. From here it was only 60km and we attained our highest altitude for the day at 5190m marked with stone sign, a few yaks and a mini mountain of prayer flags. We could now see the lake - a bright aquamarine - and drove downhill to the Namtso guest house and checked in. Before a dinner of miantiao we climbed one the two hills near the campsite and sat in the sun at its peak to appreciate the fantastic views and reflect on the trip so far. The night was not pleasant: two generators, one on until 11.30, dogs barking plus stonking headaches made for a fitful sleep but all we could do was drink plenty, take painkillers and rest when possible.

Tue 21 July - At 10ish we, including Gong Ke, walked around the hill Bine and I had climbed the evening before. The water was ice cold and crystal clear (to cliché). Almost back at the carpark after the walk we stopped at the toilets. Instead of using any written language to denote men and women, the male side was indicated by a smoking pipe and the ladies a stiletto - well at least you knew where you stood (or squatted as the case may be). After noodles again for lunch we headed back towards Lhasa, grateful for our diminishing headaches as we lost height. Four hours later we rolled into town, checked in at the youth hostel and went to look for dinner before an early night. Surprisingly the room was very quiet and only 30¥ pp (the breakfast was abysmal though).

Wed 22 July - After exchanging some travellers checks at the bank which took an age and meant we missed what there was to see of a cloudy solar eclipse, we headed south-west on the Friendship Highway. We climbed through some dramatic scenery, beige and sandy mountains peppered with the odd bush or herd of yaks, the road switching back and forth, eventually after many ear pops later, we made the Gambula summit and met decorated yaks (for photos) and hoards of other tourists. A brief ‘pit stop’ later we dropped down past Yamdrok Lake which is over 75 miles long and leveled out in the valley bottom only to have the exhaust fall off a half hour later. Our driver attempted a repair with wire and a coke can but to no avail. We limped loudly on until Gyantse, the next town where Bine and I did some sight-seeing whilst our transport received attention. A couple of hours later we pulled in to Shigatse and settled into quite a plush hotel. Our tour host had not planned ahead so there were no three star rooms available, so we were upgraded! We decided on a Chinese meal for dinner (just to be contrary) then wandered to the local square and chatted with some local youngsters before retiring for the night.

Thur 23 July - The next morning following a mediocre breakfast of a few small pieces of fruit, a slice of bread and a hard-boiled egg we had time to mooch the streets whislt Gong Ke sorted our permits to visit Everest. We made a quick visit to the local (expensive) fruit market as we were leaving Shigatse for supplies. A hundred km down the road we pulled over in Shekar for sustenance. Strangely Gong Ke and our driver ate at a separate table (we think this was because the rates for food differed and this arrangement would save embarrassment). About 20 minutes further on we officially entered the Everest Base Camp (EBC) area. Passports and permits were scrutinised and then we were off on the long, dusty and winding trail. It’s approximately a hundred km of unmetalled road from here to EBC. Let this be a warning to you all - it’s one hell of a bone-shaking journey even in a 4X4. The first 20km is an upward twisting track, constantly switching back and forth through moraines eventually taking you to a high ‘settlement’ where everyone takes a break to buy souvenirs and view a row of high peaks in the distance, one being mount Chomolungma (Everest). We just snapped away at the scenery before heading down another snaking route taking some off-road short cuts, just to make things even more interesting, passing many tiny hamlets and drinking up the ‘big’ panorama enveloping us. At times the body-jarring ride together with altitude headaches was a strain but finally halfway up a slight rise we spied yak-hair tents - base camp was in sight. The tents, about 50ish in all, formed an oblong beside the track. Each was the same price so we chose ‘Hotel De California’ (wouldn’t you?), deposited our bags within and then attempted to rid ourselves of the pain in our heads by breathing oxygen from the canisters we’d bought in Lhasa (15¥ each). Then, despite our aching heads we wandered around and caught the mountains on film. We asked, as it turned out, a Belgian couple to take our photo then got talking and ended up having our pot noodles with them in their chosen tent. As you are probably already thinking at this point, yes, we did consume rather a lot of pot noodles on the trip!

Fri 24 July - A restless night later, at 6.45 we forced a pancake into our stomachs and trekked up towards the mountain with Gong Ke. An hour later we approached an army checkpoint where our passports were held then walked another few hundred yards - the furthest allowed (for non-Chinese anyway, we saw some Chinese tourists walk nearer the mountain…?). A little disappointed with the result; still a few km from the actual base of Everest and the severity of the environment. We took some photos, visited what is probably one of the loftiest toilets on the planet, and ambled back down the rocky track. We packed our stuff, said our zai jiaos to the hosts and boarded the ‘cruiser for the grueling return leg. First the winding upward crawl to the pass (with a swift stop for photos) before meandering back to the entrance/checkpoint and on to Shekar for another noodle lunch before hitting the highway to Shigatse. At 6pm we pulled up outside our hotel for the night, checked in then went for a poor curry before bed (little sleep - bloody barking dogs!)..

Sat 25 July - We’d agreed an early start with our driver so a hard-boiled egg and some bread later we threw our gear in the truck and pointed it towards Lhasa, for the long drive. Once back we rested in our ‘old’ hotel for a while, went shopping then in the evening, on the guide book’s advice ate in a Nepali/Indian restaurant, with very tasty results. One pleasing chicken tikka and a beer later we just watched the world go by for an hour or so…

Sun 26 July - Up at 9ish today (well it is Sunday). After breakfast we moved our gear to the International Youth Hostel. After a very quick lunch of spicy chips we met Gong Ke and took a taxi to near the Sera monastery to climb the hill behind it. It was a hot day but after an hour or two we eventually made it to a tiny, almost deserted monastery near the top. We were invited in by the few people who live there for yak butter tea and fruit before descending and returning to the youth hostel. As Gong Ke had another tour to start we said our farewells before searching out some dinner.

Mon 27 July - It was a restless night for us both - noisy room mates etc. Consequently we had a little lie-in before a supermarket breakfast. The remainder of the morning was then filled with a visit to a nunnery. The atmosphere was completely different to the monasteries: we could wander around at will and talk to the nuns, we were even allowed photos. It was a very lively, colourful place with flowers everywhere and even incorporated a café.

Just before lunch we had a browse in Barkhor market to acquire a few gifts before some ‘Lhasa’ chips and a rest back at the hostel (and also to dry out - today was the first rainy day since arriving). At 3ish we ventured out into the rain again for post cards and more gifts. We even hunted for about an hour for a shop the guide book recommended to find it didn’t exist! (thanks guide book). It was then back to the hostel before a great curry for dinner and the end to a great stay in Lhasa.

Tue 28 July - Following yet another fractured night’s sleep due to inconsiderate others returning at 3am and showering - what’s all that about? - we caught our pre-arranged lift to the huo che zhan at 7am and boarded the T28 to Xi’an at 8.30 on the nose for what was to be a 36 hour journey.

We had been allocated top bunks which are a little awkward to access but we used the corridor fold-down seats for most of the day whilst the other four guys in our ‘compartment’ sat on the lower bunks and noisily played cards for most of the day. Much of our day was spent admiring the fantastic scenery and taking photos, oh, and looking forward to the next pot noodle. We eeked out the time until 6pm, our designated final meal of the day then played hangman and took in the native antelope-type creatures and other wildlife we passed. Lights went out at 10pm and so we clambered into our bunks for much-needed shuteye.

Wed 29 July - The fellas ’downstairs’ began to get noisy at about 6.30am but I snoozed until about 8 before sorting out a spicy pot noodle, a biscuit and an apple for zaofan. Bine stayed in bed until gone 9 (the lazy thingummyjig!). A wash and brush up later it was back to gazing at the scenery going by. After checking with two or three train staff (it pays to ask a few for consistency) we discovered the ETA in Xi’an was 8pm not the 5.30 we thought. Luckily we had a little extra food. As things transpired we finally pulled in at ten to nine. Bus 611 took us to the Han Tang hostel where they luckily had room and cold beer and pizza for us to enjoy.

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