Doughty does China - Act V

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Scene I - 10/11/07

Inspired by the Michael Palin documentary Himalaya just like many other travellers I've met in this area I've come to trek Tiger Leaping gorge about 60km North of Lijiang. The gorge is one of the deepest in the world (10,000 feet in places) and some 16km in length, legend has it that to escape a hunter a tiger leaped across the gorge at its most narrowest point (25 metres wide!) hence the name Tiger Leaping Gorge. Flowing through the gorge is the Yangtze which traverses for 3,964 miles making it Asia's longest river and the third longest in the world after the Nile and the Amazon respectively.

In my first day I planned to get to Halfway Guesthouse roughly 12 miles into the trek, Michael Palin crashed here on his trek to. For the first couple of hours I trekked with Derick and Shanna two newly wed lawyers from the states and for all of us it seemed to be another one of those places where keeping ones camera in your pocket proved to be some what of a challenge. At every turn in the path we were treated to some mind blowing scenery, we were leaking 'WOW's' all over the gorge.

When Derick and Shanna departed at the Naxi guesthouse I was on my own for the four hour trudge to the Halfway Guesthouse. I felt like I had the whole gorge to myself only stumbling across one other Chinese couple coming from the opposite direction heading presumably to where I had started my trek.

The highest point on the trek is at 2670 metres, reached after what is known as the 24 bends which is a mild arse-ache. Naturally the views from then on are even more rewarding and for the rest of the trek there is a gradual descent down through the gorge. The snow peaked Haba mountains with it's highest point at 5396 metres dwarfing me all the way.

Upon arrival at the Halfway Guesthouse I rewarded myself with a ginger and honey tea, some fried beef noodles and a chocolate baba and then put my feet up and spent a couple of hours admiring my surroundings. I also had some light entertainment put on for me when a guy lost his Yak and was running all over the mountainside in front of me trying to retain his stubborn beast.

After a while it got to the point where it was just to cold to be outside so I called it a night.

Flob count: 2


Scene II - 11/11/07

It was hard work pulling one's self out of bed in the cold at silly'o'clock this morning but the thought of another chocky baba before I set off was more than enough to encourage me. Before departing the guesthouse I made sure to make use of the same scenic crapper overlooking the mountains just as Michael Palin did in Himalaya. Just by doing this I felt as if I now had something new to add to my CV when I got back home.

Today's trek was a similar kettle of fish, walking along being made to feel insignificant by the sheer scale of the mountains surrounding me. At times the landscape making you feel slightly dizzy almost as if your head is refusing to believe what it is actually witnessing.

A little dog also decided to accompany me on my trek today and as per yesterday the path bared only a small handful of other trekkers. All was peaceful bar the distant roar of the Yangtze from below and the odd chime here and there of Horse and Donkey bells.

Yangshuo had been the key highlight for me on my travels and still is one of them but I can safely say that Tiger Leaping Gorge now holds the crown of one of the most amazing places that I have visited on my travels. It's beauty a splendor and if it wasn't for Michael Palin I probably would have never discovered this place so I guess a little thanks should go his way.

Flob count: 34

A.O.B
12/11/07 - Lijiang/Chengdu - 29 Flobs
13/11/07 Chengdu - 32 Flobs

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