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Published: April 26th 2008
Luang Prabang
Monks overseaing the final day of the water festival, complete with water cannonHi all. It has been at times busy, at times relaxing but altogether a very varied 10 days since the last post. A quick tour:
tuesday: 3rd day of Lao New Year. - more celebrations in Luang Prabang
wednesday: Slow boat to Pak Beng along Mekong river
thursday: continued on slow boat to Huay Xai
fri: 77km to wild camping
sat: 59km ride and 50km hitch to Luang Nam Tha
sun and mon: 2 day trek in Nam Tha national park
tuesday: 110km over the border to Mengla in CHINA
wednesday: 85km to Menglun where meet up with Matt
thursday; rest day in Menglun
friday; 61km to Jinghong
sat: rest day in Jinghong.
China has been so very different; in scale of towns, quality of roads, a sense of size of the country (the mountains and valleys seem bigger and broader) and of course now travelling with a great friend mean that Laos seems so far ago.
But quickly returning there: I spent another day in Luang Prabang for the Lao new year festivals. The third day of the new year and known to the be wettest. I thought people would have got bored of it by then
but on the contrary, it seems the first 2 days (and some of the preceding weeks) had only been a warm up. I was soaked before the procession passed and then followed it down the the final temple where they had a truck-mounted water cannon drenching all comers. It was great fun and i ended the day with another meal with Dutch cyclists Peter and Karin.
Next 2 days i was on the slow boat up the mekong heading north west. This is a well travelled route by tourists, mainly coming the other way - from Thailand into Laos. It was pleasant, particularly on the second day when i sat up front and further away from the engines. Going upriver the engine had to be working overdrive at times as we passed through narrow rock channels with some rapid flow. I was very impressed by the navigation of the pilot as the boat was quite long (around 30m). We were passed on several occasions by the 'fast boats'. These boats hurtle up the river in half the time of mine but passengers are strapped into seats and equipped with helmets and life jackets as the trip is treacherous. Also
very noisy and i didn't seen many (or any!) with their cameras and enjoying the trip. My bike emerged safely from the gentle trip which was a great relief.
Then it was back on the road, this time north east away from the thai border and toward china. The route is actually the main trade route from China to Thailand and the road has been rebuilt by the chinese. Although still complete with 10% climbs it is brand new and mountains have been moved to ease the gradient. Despite these earthworks the route was still pretty, and some of the resulting rock faces quite impressive. The local people come from tribes originating from Thailand, Cambodia (a long way away) and China, the villages and villagers were beautiful and friendly. The road was one of the highlights of Laos. Places to stay were non-existent so as my legs began to tire i decided to stock up on supplies (found some eggs and biscuits to add to my noodles) and camp out the night. With my mind made up i prompt came across a guesthouse but was keen for my night out. Eventually after passing through a village with a perfect
campground by the river, except for the attention i would have had from the kids, i found a track leading off the road with some promise. It ended in some fields used from grazing and i started to set up my tent. Didn't take long for a couple of farmers to pass by but they were happy for me to stay there - even pointing at the day huts used by people in the fields to escape the heat of the day to suggest i sleep there. Unfortunately they were across tiered fields (in other years the fields would be used for rice terraces) which the bob would not have made it across. I was however able to locate the river with their help and a much needed bathe.
That night fire-flies came out. I had never seen these before and it was really cool. The following day this spectacle was eclipsed again when i was cycling after dark (my hitch had not quite got me all the day) and i passed thousands of the bugs by the side of the road. Amongst the green shrubs they looked like fairy lights on a christmas tree.
During this day
The fast boat
fast, but deadly. Nice lifejackets guys! i came across 3 other cyclist, 2 from Thailand and 1 guy from the US. He was riding a 'tall bike'. 2 frames welded together one above the other. Good for viewing over fences (not many of those here!) but impossible to ride up 10% hills. I felt sorry for him as i passed him pushing uphill. Later he got his own back flying past in the back of a pickup. He was a circus performer and was about to meet up with 4 others, also with tall bikes who were touring the region doing shows and tricks to earn some money/somewhere to stay. Nothing he had was in a waterproof bag and his gear (which included a heavy suit on hanger dangling from 2nd storey bike basket, to be used in the colder european climate he was aiming for) didn't look very suited to long distance cycling. I felt like a bit of a gear freak. I arrived in Luang Nam Tha at around 8pm and booked on a 2 day trek for the next day. Then found a great guesthouse in a tourist orientated town before having a great dinner.
The next day saw me set off
Sundown
on the mekong and Thailand. Once again the river was forming the border with 6 other guys + 2 guides into the Nam Tha national park. We started off climbing big hills and i was seriously doubting the wisdom of a trek on a 'rest' day. It was hard work and seriously hot. Fortunately we got the big hills out the way early, trekking up through land being cleared by locals for farming. After that we were further from the main communities and into the wild jungle. We went through a couple of villages which had no electricity (i had already seen many like that) and no road access (this was new to me). They lacked any easy communication with Lao as a whole and villages were very basic. The kids were naked or in clothes produced in the village. In the second village we heard drums beating and our guide went off to investigate. The village shaman was conducting a ceremony to send good spirits to a baby who was ill. Amazingly we were allowed to go into the 'house' and see the proceedings. Chinese script was being read and teas prepared, followed by a bit of a break. We then became aware of pigs being tied up and prepared for slaughter.
The slaughter of 3 or 4 pigs involved many from the village with kids looking on or taking part. 3 girls reentered the house stirring fresh blood. We eventually moved on, all of us quite moved by the events. Certainly not what we had expected to see, but a very interesting insight into the way these minority tribes lived their lives.
We also saw alot of wildlife, a snake eating an insect, butterflies and birds, we were surrounded by leaches and uncovered a centipede. The later caused particular alarm amongst the guides to start with, the colours being a warning sign to them, but appealing to our cameras. They explained they were very poisonous and we joined them in backing off, but then the guides bravado grew and we got closer.
Back on the bike i had some serious distance to cover to get to Mengla in China. The day started flat in the surrounds of Lunag Nam Tha, but i got to the hills by the time i reached the border. The town on the Lao side of the border was very strange - fully of big buildings rapidly being built. Chinese script was everywhere - hang
Nick and his tall bike
check out the suit hanging from front basket on which side of the border was I? Turns out China have rented all the land on 100 year lease and are building on it like crazy. Leaving Lao was no problems and although i got some strange looks and my passport photo was studied at length (Someone needs to explain to the Chinese that no one looks like their passport photo!) i was allowed to enter.
Having done 80km and not fancying another 60km more on the bike i attempted to find a bus. A driver quickly came forward insisting he could get me, the bike and my trailer into his already full minibus. He didn't even have a roof rack. I declined his offer and reluncantly started out on the road. Turns out the road was a highway cut into the mountain in tunnels and on bridges, and this new road had cut 20km off the route. I pedalled on happy - if a little alone - there were no villages along this new road, and precious few cars. I ended the day in Mengla, a town described by the books to be without charm and to be avoided. Bumped into Nick and this circus friends and
bamboo snake
Already occupied with a meal so we felt safe to get close we had a fun evening struggling to be understood, but none the less enjoying chinese hospitality and food.
The next day saw more highway, this time on a section not open to traffic. I went for it anyway with a couple of other cyclists i met at the road closed sign. We argued our way (well just pointed and eventually they let us through) through closed tunnels and then had a painful descent along bridges in which they were cutting expansion joints - this involved stopping every 70m or so to negotiate missing bit of tarmac!
Finally i arrived in Menglun, where I had arranged to meet Matt.
Unfortunately the guesthouse i had selected no longer was function as one. I sat at the nearest street corner to the joint, found a beer and contemplated how we would met. My txts went unanswered and an hour and a half later i got on my bike to do a lap around the town. The time had passed quickly as i restocked on food and fluids. Didn't take long - Matt was only 1 corner away, waiting on the road he thought i would come in on. He was
right in that it was the opposite road to the one he arrived on, but some strange roads, which none of our maps have been able to explain meant that we both came in on the same road despite me coming from the south, and him the north..
He had already sorted another hotel and we were soon back on the street for dinner and a couple of beers. A good catch up saw one of my latest nights to bed - 11pm.
The next day we sorted out bikes, worked out how to pack all the gear and visited the botanical gardens, the only tourist attraction of the town. The next day we set ourselves the modest target of 60km, but still a good distance for a first day (and also the longest ride of Matts life - i was beginning to worry when i heard this!!). The hills, although gently graded, had us both tired by lunchtime and we took a nice break,. This fortunately coincided with the start of a downhill which didn't stop till we arrived in Jinghong. Matt had already spent a day here and so took the leading in taking us to
Dai villager
using the latest food processor! Crushing the husks off rice. A hard days work. some accommodation. Jinghong is a big city and had a pretty dusty, dirty exterior, but now in the centre is it quite pleasant. It is also adorned by many strange ornaments, some of which are illustrated here. With the next towns not so big we decided to give ourselves a rest day here. It has been a nice place and we have eaten well. Matt has realised why i was eating so much and the restaurant staff have been super helpful and quite willing to look through our phrase books when our pronunciation has not done the job.
The next few weeks will take us north west towards Baosham/Tengcong and a volcanic area. Tibet looks like a no go so we are considering other places to visit in China on our 90 day visas. Other travellers we have met are now only able to get 30 day visas, and as our girlfriends, Greer and Lucie, are finding you now need to book accommodation for the whole of your stay in china. They don't seem to be making it easy for tourists, although we are not feeling this 'on the ground' and internet use has (thus far) been unrestricted.
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