Potala Palace vs Chinese Tour Groups

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So I met Pussang at 9:00 in my hotel lobby and we were driven to Jokhang Temple first. It was about 2km from my hotel, but I was surprised to see the driver. I thought we would just walk. When I said so, Pussang seemed surprised. He said most Americans didn't like to walk anywhere and always wanted the driver at their disposal. Hee hee. I asked him if most of the Americans he took on tours were bigger than me and he said, 'Oh yes' and I'm not small, I know. So I told him I like to walk and that if he wanted, he could tell the driver to go home for the day. He did, and we walked a lot today. There is no better way to see a city and learn your way around than to walk it.

At Jokhang Temple (85RMB unless you're a legitimate pilgrim, please cover your knees and shoulders in all temples) I was met with a huge crowd of pilgrims who enter one way, and tourists who enter another way. The pilgrims were leather-faced, most were dirty, and most were Tibetian, and all were waiting patiently. Some were chanting. The tourists, however, were not so well behaved. Most were, yes, I'm going to say it, Chinese, therefore they were pushing, yelling, shoving, and being a general pain in the ass. Sorry, I have no nice words for Chinese tour groups. Pussang, however, having only a lone western gal following him, knew what to say to the guard, and he gently pushed in while I used elbows and shoulders and let the Chinese tourists know exactly how I felt about their behavior on my way in. They get as good as they give from me.

Once inside, we had only 20 minutes. They limit the time, for obvious reasons. So Pussang told me about the Lhamas and icons and this and that, and because of all the people, the information mostly didn't even go in one ear, and what did pretty much came out the other ear pretty quickly. I am a horrible student. Anyway, the most interesting part of the temple was watching the pilgrims. Most of these people have nothing in the way of material possessions and all were giving money, scarves, yak butter, fruit, or some other offering to Buddha. I was amazed at their dedication and faith. I would become more amazed the longer I stayed in Tibet.

When we left the temple, I told Pussang I liked his style. I made it very clear he did not have to explain everything and I didn't have to see and do everything. I suggested we go for a coffee since we had time before our 1:00 appointment at Potala Palace. So we went to Summit Cafe where the coffee is too expensive and he wasn't comfortable. I realized my mistake too late. Anyway, I bought him a coffee and we had a great chat for about an hour, then we were off to Potala.

We were early, so the guards made us wait even though I was alone. That's okay though. Many, many Chinese tour groups went ahead of me and I only hoped none would come in behind me. They did. Ugh. We had one hour inside the palace, but it was enough. I paid more attention this time. The palace was much smaller when it was built initially, but I believe Dahli Lhama #8 expanded it to what it is today. It is huge, but only a small portion is open to tourists, but it includes the Dhali Lhama's chair where he sat to meet the masses and the monks. Fascinating. We didn't stay an hour, but after all the pushing by the, yes, I'm going to say it again, Chinese tour groups, I was content to leave. When we were on our way back down the hill, I asked how the poor Tibetian people felt when DL#8 put so much money into the expansion of what was his home. I don't know if he didn't understand what I was asking, but he didn't even pretend to make up an answer. He was moving on to the next subject.

It was time for lunch and we had good Indian food on a rooftop restaurant looking over the Jokhang Palace. Guides eat free there. Afterwards he was free and I went to Summit Cafe to use the Internet and ended up meeting Kate from 'Britian' and Kelly from the US. They had just finished a 4 day trek with their guide, their Yak Man, and three yaks. Wow. After they told me about their experience, I was sorry I had booked a rather safe tour to keep my costs down. I believe their experience of Tibet is unforgettable, but so far, mine is underwhelming and full of memories of yes, rude Chinese tour groups.

Kelly leaves tomorrow, so Kate is going to join me on my trip to Shigatse, the second largest city in Tibet. Cool. I am grateful for the company.

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Photos

Johkang Temple
Inside courtyard. No photos allowed inside the temple.

Singing and Working
These people looked like they were singing and dancing on the roof of Jokhang Temple, but they were actually stamping down the concrete to make it smooth. Pussang said it was because rough concrete was hard on the knees when prostrating, but nobody prostrates on the roof...

View of the Potala Palace
from Jokhang Temple roof

Prayer Wheels
on top of Jokhang Temple

Potala Palace
Just before the no-photo zone inside. They also take your water at the entrance, but they just happen to sell it inside...

View of the Mountains
from the palace

Naptime
This cat slept behind me while I ate lunch.

View of the Main Square
from the rooftop restaurant. There was also a Chinese soldier on the top of the building next to us, but I thought it would not be a good idea to take his photo. He had a big gun...