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Published: October 7th 2007
My first day in Tibet was pretty much a travel day. We woke up at 630 to catch what we were informed was a 1030 flight. Short of the long, we left at noon…not too bad but when you’re given the run around about times and you’re getting up that early, its kind of a bummer. Anyway, we had another amazing view of Everest on our one our flight to Lhasa, which was two hours, 15 minutes ahead of Kathmandu. I had been given an aisle, but obviously kept my eyes open for a free window, which eventually surfaced and I booked to get it. Now why do I need more photos of Everest…because I do and that should be reason enough!
Once we landed in Tibet you can immediately see the beautiful countryside…it is just as gorgeous as Bhutan…however, shortly after leaving the airport you could see the influence of the Chinese…from the inordinate number of flags hailing over every building and light post to the progress of the facilities and lack of old Tibetan structures…it’s pretty sad. And in the capital, Lhasa, the Chinese outweigh the number of Tibetans.
After arrival at the hotel we quickly got
our act together to take a short walk and over to dinner, which was delish…garlic toast, Indonesian noodles, and fried rice…I can’t go wrong…not only do I love the carbs, but apparently they are fantastic for altitude sickness…that and the garlic. So I am doing well. I have to say, the altitude is a shock…I walk up one flight of stairs and I’m out of breath and can feel my heart pounding out of my chest. This is certainly not the place where I will be rushing to be in front. We are at 3600 meters and will be here a total of four days to acclimatize. Minus the shortness of breath and heart rate I am doing well. I sometimes have the faintest sign of a headache, but my appetite is there and I’m not nauseous, except when I see someone snotting out of their nose. The only other thing is me not sleeping well…waking up often, but I’m hoping that will go away!
We got up Wednesday morning and walked over to Barkhor Square and where the Jokhang is. Kirsty and I joined the Tibetan pilgrims in the Barkhor circuit circumambulating (clockwise) the Jokhang (temple). There were
a ridiculous number of Tibetans…Eventually we found a little spot in the shade to people watch and see Tibetans prostrating in front. Basically, prostrating is when you pray and kneel before the temple, sliding forward on your hands (with little mats to help glide). It’s nice to hear the sounds of people praying and definitely eye-catching to watch.
We then grabbed a drink (and when I say drink I mean black tea…I have taken alcohol, especially at this altitude, out of my diet…as well as coffee) and watched the movement of Barkhor Square from above. We then had a little time to spare to do half of a lonely planet walking tour in the same area before grabbing a quick bite to eat and meeting the group to head to Sera Monastery, which is just a bit outside of town. We took a taxi ride there…very reminiscent of NYC cabs although here they cross the solid double yellow line…however I’m sure if most streets in the city weren’t one way, our cabbies would do the same thing! HOLD ON.
We made it to the Sera Monastery alive and in time to watch the monks’ debate. It was a
fascinating experience and highly entertaining to watch even though I have no idea what they were talking about it. But they were very animated. I also learned that the windows that I am so fond of taking pictures of and have the black paint around them have the black paint because the color black is known to be a protector. Similarly, little kids who were getting blessed inside the monastery had a little black mark on their noses as a sign of protection.
For dinner we went for traditional Tibetan food with the group and saw some Tibetan dancers. Nothing like the Bhutanese, although this wasn’t a festival and just a taste of local tradition. Didn’t tickle me much. And then a few of us went out for a drink (tea) which ended up costing me 20 Yuan…where everywhere else it is 1 Yuan. We’re not sure why it was 20 times as much (and we are only talking about $3…but it was certainly cause for a good laugh and a furrow of the brows).
Sleeping at this hotel is average…I’m sleeping on a slated rock essentially! Where is my pillow mattress?!?! And we have the non-stop meowing
cat…at all hours of the night and even during the day…I first think, poor cat, and then I’m like - wait it’s 3am and I’m exhausted…shut the ef up! That bloody cat!
I think I am getting color here! Woohoo
I can’t believe I haven’t even been gone 1 month yet…it’s weird. I don’t feel like I should be anywhere but here though…
On day three, Thursday, in Lhasa Kirsty and I tried to finish up our Lonely Planet walking tour…however we only got to the next stop on the tour when we both kind of looked at each other and decided to head back for a much needed toilet break. That pretty much left us in time to meet up with the rest of the group to head over to the magnificent Potala in our rickshaws. The palace is incredible….just standing before it leaves you in awe. The inside was nearly as impressive although quite empty…it’s sad to know that those who are supposed to dwell there cannot. I was also put off by the amount of Chinese tourists. The leaders were so loud in their explanations and the groups were so large and would brush
by you and cut in front of you with no concern at all. It ruined the experience there a bit…especially having just come from Bhutan where most of the time I felt I was the only person in a temple.
As an aside, I don’t know that I really had an impression of Lhasa before I arrived, but I certainly did not imagine that it was so built up and developed as it is…the roads are wide and paved, there are some pretty nice restaurants, and a number of other things that I guess just didn’t hit the radar before I got here.
As we moved from the Potala, Kirsty, Paul and I made our way to lunch for some yummy street food - vegetable fried rice. I have certainly been eating a vegetarian while I’ve been traveling…I guess I just don’t trust the meat…and I’ve been eating like a healthy little girl…sometimes I think my eyes are bigger than my stomach, and I guess to no surprise really, I finish it all! On the way there as I was gazing in awe of the majestic size of the Potala, my foot managed to fall through a crack
where the evening fountains perform. Thank goodness I didn’t hurt my ankle or worse…what a way to ruin a trip, huh? And I think I am determined to hurt myself...Kirsty too, we keep tripping and stubbing toes and everything...we just blame it on the altitude!
After lunch, Kirsty and I finally finished up our walking tour. It only took us three tries! We headed back to the Jokhang for some good views of Barkhor Square. We couldn’t have planned our visit more perfectly…while we were inside admiring the different chapels we began to hear the scurrying of feet from afar…all of the Tibetan pilgrims that had been lined up outside were let in to pray to the most important shrine in Tibet, that of Sakyamuni. Kirsty and I were just outside of the chapel when the rush of people came…it was truly a sight to see and incredible to stand and watch. The desperation to see Sakyamuni and pray before him (only a matter of a few seconds does each person get before they are pushed along) and the people lined up like sardines. Because we happened to be there at that moment, we were able to squeeze into
the line of people and join them. It was certainly wonderful to see pilgrims with their 1/10 of Yuan donations, prayer shawls, prayer wheels, jugs of liquid yak butter to pour into the candles with the sounds of them murmuring prayers. A little further on we were able to see evening prayer in session with the monks chanting. It was kind of soothing to be honest. Felt lucky to witness it happening. We had a group dinner and then it was off to bed.
Day four in Lhasa…still acclimatizing to the altitude…was a lazy morning. We met at 10:30 to head over to the Drepung Monastery. We took a public bus and then a tractor…just like the public transport in the city, no?? The Drepung is one of the largest monasteries in the world, but I don’t feel we got to see it from afar to really comprehend its grandness. I also think I am getting templed out. This was actually nice to visit though since we could pay to take pictures inside which I haven’t been able to do before…it’s nice to have something documented, especially when we were again witness to monks in afternoon prayer, chanting in the assembly hall.
Back in Lhasa, I had a quick bite to eat and then went to figure out my next steps. I am apparently on a waitlist to Chengdu, China. For some reason I cannot find my way out of Kathmandu. Flights are beyond expensive…1,000USD+ for a one way. My guide has been kind enough to find me a more reasonable fare but I need to stay in KTM for an extra two days…which I didn’t want at first, but apparently some of the best white water rafting in the world is here so I think I will do a two day trip upon my arrival to fill up the time. Sounds incredibly exciting to me now! Once I get to Chengdu I am hoping and planning to meet up with Eri. Either there or in Kunming. Whatever works out best.
For dinner I stuffed myself. It never ceases to amaze me how much I can pack away. Incredible!
Day Five in Lhasa we started out by taking a bus to Ganden Monastery, or joyous monastery. We hired the bus and when we reached the first check point we learned that our driver had an expired license!! Close to an hour later we got a new bus and a new driver! Upon reaching the monastery, which was the first Gelugpa monastery (the yellow hat sect) we hopped out of a perfectly good bus and a perfectly nicely paved road to hike around it…pretty much our test to see if we can make it at Everest. We did what is called the Ganden Kora, which is a hike around the entire monastery which is at an elevation of roughly 4500 meters…the highest I’ve been so far and I have to say I did pretty darn well. We all did. I quickly get out of breath hiking uphill but after a brief rest I just as quickly regain it. The views were incredible of the Kyi-chu Valley. We packed a lunch and sat up on a hill to admire the views. Once we finished the kora, we went inside the monastery briefly to see the monks debating and to see Tsongkhapa’s tomb. He is the founder of the monastery and the Gelugpa sect.
The drive back was beautiful. It’s been ridiculously gorgeous here…I don’t know the temperature but it’s just perfect and sunny and I think I got a little burned today since I didn’t put on sunscreen. Not too badly though….lesson learned. We then went for blind massages…blind Tibetans offer massages for about $10 USD for an hour and the money goes to the school to teach them. Definitely not the best massage but alas, the money goes for a good cause.
Dinner was at Tashi I, which was the most disappointing meal yet. Don’t worry, I finished it all, but it was not that great. BUMMER!! Walking home we passed by the same meat market shops that we always do and I had this thought…that piece of meat sitting out on the table looks like the same yak thigh and leg as was sitting out the day before and the day before that.
We also picked up our water for the next day or two (nearly 8 liters). We go to this one Tibetan woman who is right next to the hotel. I love her…well I think she is so sweet and she has this huge smile on her face each time we show up. It’s little things like that, that just make me smile!
Tomorrow we leave to begin our journey to Everest. It’s a 10 hour drive/day today and we should be there on the 11th. Wooooo hoooo!
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erika
non-member comment
hi
hi bethie! i loved reading this one and seeing your pictures! i can't wait to read each and every entry. hoi an is my favorite vietnamese city so far, we are here for the next three days. i am dissapointed we can't meet up afterwards, but i'll just have to live it through you. i miss and love you!