Tibet

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Nov 2004 TIBET

"Give yourself to the journey....Do only what you do not regret and fill yourself with joy." I read these words from the Dhammapada, or 'sayings of the Buddha', whilst seated on a plane heading to Lhasa. Very sound advice I thought as I embarked on this trip of a lifetime.

Tibet didn’t disappoint one bit. It is a truly unique country. I adore it: the people, the stunning scenery, the culture (which I’m very glad to report is still alive in certain areas, although is being diluted at a frighteningly rapid pace.) It all felt incredibly familiar, and I felt totally at home, odd as that may sound, since I’ve been interested in it for soooo long and had read reams about all the places I went to, and had been there in my imagination countless times!

The scenery is totally breathtaking (literally and metaphorically!) Vast mountains and vistas, nomadic homes, prayer flags blowing in the wind, stunning monasteries, turquoise lakes, hot springs and of course the characteristic sight of red robed monks, with the familiar chant of 'OM MANI PADME HUM' drifting through the air…. Tibet also displays the most beautiful delphinium blue sky, and nowhere have I seen a night sky so clear and bright. In fact, Tibet is seriously challenging Venezuela and Kenya for the honoured title of my favourite country.

I deliberately stayed in Tibetan places the whole time and was always with Tibetans who are indeed a special race, there's a profound depth to them beneath the smiling eyes. I got pretty nifty at the lingo too! One day, a Tibetan who I’d spoken to lots asked me when I was born, particularly the day of the week (Sunday) and based on that and my personality he told me he’d give me my Tibetan name….. It is ‘Nyima Lhamo’. What does it mean?..... Well to my surprise and great honour, I discovered it meant ‘Sun Goddess’! Won’t argue with that! Or, as my friend Evy in California would say “I’ll take it!” So from then on all the Tibetans called me Nyima Lhamo.

The Potala palace (home of the Dalai Lama, except of course that he’s sadly not there,) was spectacular! It’s one of a kind, and enormous with 1000 rooms, and all for a 6 year old boy when he first came here! It still retains some of the magic and splendour of its prime, which I was imagining as I walked through it's endless corridors and brightly coloured rooms, filled with priceless treasures from Tibetan Buddhism.

The Jokang temple surpassed my expectations, it’s the most sacred temple in Tibet, and feels like it. The view from the roof is exceptional, with the Potala palace in full view amongst vast white mountains. Something really special happened to me there….. I went back there alone after walking around Barkhor square and playing yo yos with the Tibetan kids, when a high lama beckoned over to me. There was a huge queue of Tibetan nomad pilgrims outside the temple, and the lama took me to the front door, opened it, let me in then closed the door again! I found myself alone in the holiest site in Tibet! (Except for 3 monks, 2 reciting mantras and 1 lighting butter lamps.) It was a rare, unforgettable blessing. About twenty minutes later the lama came in and opened up the chapel at the back to the main Buddha statue and allowed me to go inside, after which thousands of Tibetans were let in and circumambulated the temple with their prayer wheels in full motion. I was warmly welcomed by all of them, and felt deeply honoured. I had been made to feel somehow like an honourary Tibetan.

Drepung monastery used to be the biggest in the world with 10,000 monks. I don't need to tell you how and why it shrunk. It had the best views imaginable of the mighty Himalayas... Sera monastery was an especially interesting place because I witnessed the monks debating outside in the sun, it’s actually like a martial art with big movements made as they articulated and debated their philosophy. I watched for hours spellbound.

I’ve discovered how much fun you can have with the combination of children and bubbles! (Probably thanks to my friend Claire Best who gave me some for my birthday.) I had hours of fun showing two cute Tibetan nomadic girls how to blow bubbles, they'd never seen them before and were awe struck and really excited. I got some beautiful pics of them with the mountains behind them, chasing bubbles through the air!

We crossed lots of stunning high passes at about 5000 meters (17,000 ish feet) where the oxygen thins but the views keep expanding! All accommodation was Tibetan and wonderful but pretty basic, except the Shigatse hotel which, as they say up North, was ‘Bloody luxury!’ Hot water showers and all! I’m also pleased to report that it is possible to be solar powered (as I am) and be in the Himalayas approaching winter; the sun is stronger here than anywhere, it’s only at night that it gets freezing and lots of layers makes it perfectly bearable.

There’s nothing quite like squatting with the Himalayas all around you and nothing for company but a yak!!!

We went to the monastery of the Panchem Lama, who is second ranking spiritual and political leader after the Dalai Lama, and is sadly now in China as the world’s youngest political prisoner instead of here in his rightful place. The ultimate Chinese take away! (Sorry, couldn’t resist.) It's actually terribly sad.

I got on brilliantly with our guide ‘Dawa’ (which means moon) and spent most of my time with him. After about a week he told me that his own father was taken prisoner by the Chinese for putting up slight resistance to their presence, he died in jail 18 years later…. There are stories like that everywhere. It's so sad, yet the people are remarkably lovely and compassionate despite everything. It seems they have come to a decision that everything can be taken from them except their peace of mind, the most precious asset.

Dawa was at school with the lead man in the film ‘Himalaya’ and also the guy in the book ‘Namma’ for those who know of them.

Now then, I tend to like surprising people when I go off travelling on my own and here’s the version for this trip…. I had a cunning plan, and managed to rope four other people into it to make it possible. Two days ago, we got up at 5am under an incredibly bright night sky lit up by infinite constellations. The stars seem well fed or somehow bigger in this part of the world. I haven't seen a more luminous sky canvas by night anywhere else. We drove to Rongpuk monastery (the highest in the world) and trekked from there to EVEREST BASE CAMP! (known as Qomolangma, ‘Mother Goddess of the Universe’ by Tibetans) at 5220 metres. The Tibetan side is more beautiful, less accessible and less difficult to reach than the Nepalese side). We actually went a little higher too to melt in the sun’s rays for a moment. (I think either people bang on about altitude sickness more than necessary, or I’m somehow built for the mountains and never knew it. I felt great the whole time except for a minor headache just above base. However I’m not planning on getting cocky at all because there’s more trekking to come in Nepal, just an observation.) The experience was totally fantastic, and mesmerizingly beautiful! There are no words really to describe it. We were blessed with a cloudless sunny deep blue sky and only saw 3 other people the whole time as the season was over. It was a magical, peaceful and awe inspiring experience.

Back at Rongpuk monastery, the monks and nuns (yes there are both there!) were so sweet and actually opened the main temple especially for the 5 of us to look at. I sat with them outside as they chanted and rang Tibetan bells in the bright late morning sun. One of them pointed to Everest and said “My God”, I believe he meant it quite literally; those monks, I think, see themselves as guardians over the majestic mountain.

I’ve learned so many fascinating things from the elders there too, they have an underlying wisdom beneath everything they say. One of them assured me that Tibet's most sacred scriptures and artefacts are safe and sound in hidden locations. Oh, and I even tried Tibetan tea! Having been told repeatedly that it was disgusting and that the only thing worse than hot Tibetan tea, was cold Tibetan tea! It was surprising palatable! (and is great for altitude.) Chang (or Tibetan beer) also went down well, in rather large quantities on the last night!

'May all beings be happy, may all beings be free from suffering'......... That's the philosophy that prevails here, despite everything. Long may that continue and may the Tibetans find a level of freedom and peace which they so deserve. As the Dalai lama says: "My religion is simple, my religion is kindness."

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