10 days in Tibet

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Tibet was phenomenal; the landscape, people, monasteries blew me away and surpassed all my expectations. I am afraid my limited vocabulary and lack of adequate describing words will lead to this wonderful place not being portrayed as well as it could. But I will give it a go.

Our flight from Kathmandu to Lhasa was on a crystal clear day so the view of the Himalayas and the mighty Everest was perfect. Arriving in Lhasa I was shocked with how ‘Chinese’ it had become; it was very distributing. But the Chinese have been occupying Tibet for more than 50 years now, so I suppose I should have expected this. Early evening Elke and I went for a walk around Barkhor, a medieval pilgrim circuit. There were 100’s of Tibetans circling the circuit in a clockwise direction and then making their way into the Jokhang Temple. People from all regions were there, so we saw the colorful regional dress of the Tibetan people. The women looked wonderful with their hair beads (mainly turquoise), babies strapped across their backs and the men with their big fury jackets, with only one arm in the other sleave wrapped skillfully around the back. It was fascinating, the people were spinning pray wheels and prostrating outside the Temple. The prostrating looks like hard work to me, and there were people of all ages at it, even very old women well over 80. Standing, they first raise there hands in prayer to their foreheads, chest, then get to their knees, slide forward so they are flat on the ground, hands again in prayer pose, then they rise and do it again, and again. The people are doing this at all the kora’s (pilgrim circuits) and monasteries. The following morning we visited the Jokhang Temple, it is the most revered religious structure in Tibet, built in the 7th century. There were even more people in the morning walking and prostrating. The Temple was grand; there were paintings all around the initial courtyard and milling people, more prostrating women. Inside the main section (after passing by Chinese military) there was a huge Buddha with multiple chapels leading off every side the walls housed figures of various kings, diets, Buddha’s, etc. The structure was made from dark smoky wood, further developed by the burning of incense and yak butter candles. All the pilgrims carry with them big bags of cubed yak butter or large flasks of melted yak butter to add to the candles, they also leave a lot of money. Another curious thing I have noticed about the pilgrims was the pace they move through the temples and monasteries; it is fast, very fast. I often was pushed and shoved by passing pilgrims, but not aggressively, more they were wanting to get past and you got a smile… they pushed each other as well. The rooftop view across the square and to Potala Palace was beautiful, flanked by the surrounding mountains. We headed to the Potala Palace after lunch, the building is massive, over 1000’s rooms. It is one of the most known landmarks in the city if not Tibet, I know the picture of this building drew me to the country. It was the tallest building in the world before the skyscrapers were built in America. There is not a lot going on in the Palace since the Dalia Lama is in exile, but it is still an amazing place. It was a tricky climb up another 170m, when we were already at 3800m, so lots of stops. We started at the top and worked our way down in a clockwise direction. There were various tombs of the past Lama’s 12m high, golden and covered in jewels. Each Lama had a thrown room and there were figures and pictures decorating the walls. Some women were maintaining one of the rooms and were singing and banging their tools as they worked. It looked kind of forced and strained, sounded like a commy song there were no smiles. Elke and I walked back to the hotel, through the Chinese area, visiting the supermarket to look at the gross foods on display, eg chicken feet, livers, etc.

Drepung Monastery is situation a short drive from central Lhasa and is nestled high up in one of the mountains. Again it was white buildings with a touch of maroon, beautifully carved window frames. We visited various chapels and there were more steps to climb. The highlights were the Assembly Hall and a room painted black with delicate white scary figures some with a splash of red. The Assembly Hall seated 7,000 monks, but could fit 10,000, the painting on the walls were beautifully restored. At the front there were huge figures around 12 or so about 5-6meters tall. The light creped through the high windows and streamed across the pray umbrellas that hung from the ceiling, which look like 100 colorful silk scarf’s sewn together. This monastery has been repaired and rebuilt after the destruction during the ‘cultural revolution’. The Tibetans destroyed to monastery, but really had no choice in the matter if the other option is death. Next stop was the summer palace of the Dalia Lama; the Norbulingka. The new palace was constructed by the current, 14th, Dalia Lama. Most of the palace area is closed as this where the Dalia Lama escaped from and where many Tibetan people died trying to protect him, so very political. The palace was beautiful, lots of yellow and bright colours, breezy, views of the mountains, surrounded by a garden. I can see why the Dalia Lama preferred to hang here rather than the Potala Palace, which is a bit dark and dingy. That afternoon we watched Monks debating at the Sera Monastery. It was very animated with much stomping, and hand and thigh clapping. They were having a great time, big smiles and laughing. There were a few pushes and head slaps thrown in for good measure, it was a fantastic spectacle. That evening we attended a Tibetan cultural show, the funny thing was I was 99% sure the two women performers were Chinese. But there was a dancing yak so all was well.

Our last day in Lhasa was a free day, a group of us decided to go to Ganden Monastery, about 1hr drive out. It was nearly all destroyed during the ‘cultural revolution’. We turned off the main road and started up a very bumpy road with no Monastery in sight. Half way up the mountain we had to get out of the bus due to road works and walk, still no Monastery in sight. We must have walked up the mountain for over 1.5hrs. The walk was pretty with snow sprinkled on the ground, crimson bushes growing on the mountainside, which the Monastery was nestled behind, very high up. On arrival I visited a disgusting squat pit toilet, so far Tibet has had the worst loos. We couldn’t find the high Kora due to the snow, so we walked around the mountainside to a viewpoint. The view up the valley was marvelous; multiple branches of the river wound up the flat valley with pockets of autumn trees and villages dotted along side, the mountains towering up either side. The vastness was not captured in any of my photos. We started on the low Kora around the mountain top the Monastery was on with a crowd of pilgrims so we were really in amongst it. They first hung their prayer flags then marched around at a brisk pace, stopping a various points. The views were amazing, and the walk ended at the Monastery. As Elke and I were resting, chatting to a monk and watching the debating from a distance, Colin Farrell struggled up! Great, we were really cool, had a chitchat and gave him a tip about walking the Kora. On the way down Elke and I scammed a ride with some Chinese cause we were tired, brilliant. That evening I went to the supermarket to get some supplies for the overland we were about to start, ie water and fruit. It was great doing something ‘everyday’ like going to the supermarket. We had an amazing 12 course salad dinner at a French style restaurant, followed by chocolate mousse, yummy!

We took off in our jeeps early doors; first stop Yamdrok-tso lakes. The jeeps were comfortable, only 3 people in each. On arrival at the lakes it was freezing, misty and snowing. We had to pull down our pants in the open-air squat toilet in those conditions, and pay for the pleasure. Quickly jumped back into the jeep and headed for Gyantse … stopping regularly for smoko, our guide was a pack a day minimum. The scenery all the way through was spectacular. Again, we were driving down wide valley’s, following snaking rivers, huge mountains on both sides. We did some off roading on our final approach to Gyantse for 2hrs. It was very brown and gray, not much life around, then we hit some pastoral areas; goats, sheep, yaks, cows all grazing. This was a whole day drive so we all fell into bed early after some spicy eggplant and caramelized banana. I have to say I was pleasantly surprised with the food on offer, of course way too much fried food and extra oil for my liking, but over all ok.
The next day we explored Gyantse, we rose early to get a view from the Fort (Dzong), but it was locked up. We did try to squeeze past the main gate by removing some stones, but I discovered I wasn’t that thin. I am not sure why we thought we could break into a Fort, it was a Fort, it had kept people out for centuries. But we got a nice view across the city and I had an opportunity to test out my balaclava, yes the temperature was dropping; two thermals and a jacket type cold. The main attraction was the Pelkor Chode Monastery. It was very impressive, especially the Assembly Hall and the linking chapels. Most of the statues and books were preserved during the ‘cultural revolution’ as they were in storage, i.e. hiding. My favorite room was one with approx 7 meters tall standing figures, all looking down on to you. There were heaps of pilgrims so that made it more atmospheric; pushing, shoving, elbowing and that was just on the stairs from a 75yr old women. Great fun! There was another fabulous room on the way out; dark, dingy and covered in gruesome drawings, scary masks hanging from the ceiling. But the highlight of the Monastery was the Kumbum; a chorten rising 35m tall, 4 floors with a dome on the top, eyes looking out over the countryside. On our way to Shigatse we stopped at our drivers family home, which was a real privilege for us. The houses are very spacious however the entire extended family lives there. We sat in the kitchen / lounge area, it had traditionally decorated cabinets and draws and a small wood burner in the corner and a bigger one in the center. Then we had to drink the yak butter tea, ekkkk, I managed to slosh back a few cups with out gagging too much. Every time we put down the cup we got more. We also got to sample some freshly baked and fried Tibetan bread which was very tasty. The entire time we were communicating via nods and smiles. Departing was very special, our driver gave his family a picture of the Dalia Lama and there reaction was something I wont forgot. They looked at the picture with such adoration and respect, then placed it on top of their heads with a little bow.

The hotel at Shigatse was excellent, very new, but a little out of town. I was very pleased with the standard of accommodation we stayed at for this trip. We had a free afternoon so we set out for some lunch, and there was Colin Farrell siting in the restaurant we decided to go to, thus more polite chitchat... great. The Kora around the Tashilhunpo Monastery in Shigatse was lined with pray wheels and we got a sweeping view of the Monastery as the sun was setting. We visited it the following day, it is home to the Panchen Lama. However the real reincarnation of the Panchen Lama has been locked up by the Chinese government and they have appointed a government approved boy. He is now 16 years old so has been in jail for well over 10years, who knows if he is alive, very sad. The highlights at the Monastery was 26m high Buddha sitting on a lotus leaf and the tomb of the 10th Panchen Lama. It was a new building as it was destroyed during the 'cultural revolution'. Again there was lots of pilgrims, one family / village was carrying a women all the way around as she had a deformed foot, slung over the shoulder like a sack of potatoes, very devoted people.

Next stop was Sakya, the drive was pretty ruff, wide arid valley's with houses dotted along. Sakya was very cold low of -12 that evening, but happily the beds had electric blankets, jackpot! Sakya was home to the last Monastery we visited, they were renovating. All the women had to carry the paint up to the roof where the men waited for it. They filled up watering cans and threw it on the walls, not the most efficient method of painting. Seems the women do all the hard labor in this part of the world. Interestingly in this town all the walls of the houses are painted a grey/black colour with crimson trim. The following day was a driving day as we headed for Tashi Dzom, we crossed two high passes well over 5000m. We pasted a Chinese checkpoint; a piece of string with little red flags tied on it, the driver annouced 'China Shit', we couldn't have agreed more. Brilliant comment! Our guest house was basic, a big dorm room, but surprisingly it was very warm. We had a grand time strolling around the small village talking to the kids and taking photos of the people preparing for the evening.

It was an early start heading for Mt Everest, a perfect morning, still and cloudless. We set off in the dark and watched the sunrise over the Himalayas and finally Everest as we approached. The approach is way more scenic than the Nepal side, we saw the entire mountain, rather than just the peak. It should also mention now it was DUCKING freezing, good lord. As we arrived at the walking start point I was near in tears after my hands froze up when i took my gloves off to go to the loo, so painful. Elke and I walked about 2km, before I asked her if she was having fun, after realizing we were not having fun we flagged down a passing jeep to drive us to base camp. There are no prizes for freezing your arse off. It was even colder at base camp, and there were no flags or tents. Coldness aside the sunrise over Everest was magical. One of our jeeps arrived with the older couple, so we ran after it and jumped in, in fact everyone from the group jumped in the one jeep. So I have decided I am not going any where sub-zero or freezing cold again, I was not born to be cold. The drive out to Tingri was 4W action, bumping all over the place, with spectacular scenery all around us. We woke to another freezing morning, but thankfully I didn't need to run across the large car park to use the loo in the middle of the night so all was well. We could see Everest from our guest house so we watched the sunrise over the big fella again. We were soon on our way heading for the boarder back to Nepal, we actually crossed the Himalayas to reach the board, needless to say the view out the window was breath taking. It was a long driving day, after crossing out of Tibet to Nepal we had another 3.5hrs on the bumpiest road in the world to Dhulikhel, just out side of Kathmandu. The resort we stayed in was fantastic, sitter loos and hot showers, love it! The view over the rolling foothills back to the Himalayas was something else. I did yoga the following morning on the balcony with this wonderful view, plus is was warm again, happy days.

The devotion of the Tibetan people to Buddhism and sticking to their way of life is very encouraging; the Chinese have a tougher job than they think squashing these people’s spirits. Hopefully in my lifetime Tibet will be allowed out from under China and the Dalia Lama can return to lead the people … but is seems unlikely.

Elke and I didn't do a lot in Kathmandu on arrival back, just relaxed and did some more shopping. I purchased a 100 knot Tibetan rug made from Tibetan wool, and I am now lugging it around with me, urgh. But felt good about it as it was from the Tibetan Refugee center, so you know the profits are going back to the people that need it. And of course picked up some more jewelery :-)

I am now in Bangkok, loving the 35 degrees, this evening we start heading towards Laos and Nth Vietnam. I am going to turn into a massage whore on this trip, my current count is two.

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