The Best Bar in the World!

EBC Trip, Saturday 10th November

After a very cold night we were up by 8am, the earliest I've been up on a Saturday morning for years - well, I had a good reason! We set off not long after rising, as cleaning our teeth wasn't the first thing on our minds in the subzero temperatures, not to mention the state of the "bathroom" - a hole in the ground under a semi sheltered hut from which emanated such a putrid stench and was so disgustingly foul that most people were relieving themselves outside last night, running the risk of frostbite in the worst place possible rather than risk entering!

Just after leaving we realised we didn't have any water with us so I ran back to get some, but it was evidently too early in the morning for the guesthouse staff as the shop was locked up, and by the time I got back the others were out of site so we carried on on our own. The hike to the base camp was signposted as 7.6km away, and without any breakfast we were really struggling after half an hour or so, but fortunately we had our emergency supplies - a pack of strepsils and some brandy left over from last night (!) - which saw us right, and we ploughed on.

After an hour and a half of stamina sapping hiking down a barren valley we thought that we must have been near, but it crossed our minds that it was strange we hadn't seen the others yet, especially one of our group, a middle aged Dutchman who was not in the best of health and had trouble walking the Rongphu kora last night, who must have been crawling after walking so far in these conditions - at one point we could see a good kilometer or so along the straight road in front. All was soon to become clear!

Not long after that, one of our drivers, Norbu, pulled up with Sean and the military guy in tow. We were running low on time and it turned out that the others had been picked up thirty minutes earlier, and so hadn't walked all the way. Because we were a way behind them the considerate drivers had left us, perhaps assuming that we had turned back. We had actually walked about three quarters of the way but the last stretch, the final steep stretch, would have been a killer, especially without breakfast, so we were grateful for the respite.

It didn't take long to reach the base camp from there, and after signing in with our passports we were allowed to finally admire the spectacular view. First we walked up to the monolith proclaiming the magical words "Qomolangma Base Camp, 5200m", and took a few photos to prove that we had been there! Then we struggled up to the top of a steep gravelly hill adorned with prayer flags - the furthest non-climbers are allowed to go - and stood bent over double for a minute catching our breath, before beholding the most stunning sight I had ever seen. The north face of Mount Everest!

The conditions were still excellent and we were blessed with a perfect view of the tallest, most revered peak in the world in all its glory, and with a little time to reflect in awe on just how many people had attempted to climb this magnificent behemoth in the past, as well as how many had lost their lives trying.

Standing so close to the tallest mountain in the world was awe-inspiring and breathtaking - both figuratively and literally - and I can only imagine what it must feel like to stand on the summit - I doubt that it has many parallels; scoring a goal in the World Cup final perhaps, or walking on the moon. Even though we had only a short amount of time there, just standing at Everest Base Camp was an incredible and moving experience, and one that will stay with me for a very long time.

We managed to eke out maybe half an hour there - which went by in a flash - before we had to leave, but the fact that we nearly didn't make it up there at all made it all the sweeter.

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There was a surprising amount of wildlife at 5200m above sea level. As well as the ubiquitous dogs and yaks lazing around, there was also a flock of pigeons sitting on the ground (they're everywhere aren't they!), and shortly after leaving Base Camp we spotted a herd of Tibetan Antelopes grazing only fifty metres from the road.

After driving for a while we turned off and took a different route from the one we drove in on, a proper road which gradually ascended, winding up a large hill. We stopped near the top for a great view of the Himalayas and watched a dust devil (mini tornado) swirl up the hill past us and along the road before rising into the air and dissipating.

The others drove past us just after and didn't stop which we found strange; driving on, we found them at the top of the hill, just past the prayer flag adorned apex. Apparently their driver had got stroppy and refused to stop further down... The view from this point was pretty special, but we all decided to trek up to the top of the next taller hill and sit for a while - the drivers were sulking so we left them to their own devices.

It took us around twenty minutes to hike to the summit, but the challenge of pushing ourselves once more, with time to savour the building anticipation of what might await us, made the experience all the more rewarding when we got there. As it was, the view from the top was stupendous.

Cafefully avoiding chörtens and prayer flags as we stuttered, breathless, to the brow, the most amazing view unfolded in front of us. The Himalayas, including Cho Oyu, Lhotse, and of course Everest, stretched endlessly from east to west, across the breadth of our field of view, rising majestically to meet the clouds in the sky. Behind us a vast plain flanked by imposing hills on either side. Total silence, true tranquility, a genuinely peaceful and uniquely serene spot.

The eight of us sat there for an hour I'll never forget, awestruck by the greatest vista any of us had ever seen. Words cannot describe, on seeing such a site, the sheer exhilaration and joy you feel - amplified, I'm sure, by the great group of people the experience was shared with - coupled with the feeling of how insignificant and miniscule we all are when placed next to something of this magnitude. Anyway, some of us had some brandy left over which was passed around to stave off the cold, and from that moment on this location, 5200 metres above sea level at the top of Pang-la Pass, passed into legend - for eight travellers at least - as The Best Bar in the World!

By the time we wrenched ourselves away it was late afternoon, and it was dark and approaching 9pm when we once again reached Shigatse safely (thankfully - the night driving of our chaffeurs was some of the worst I've seen).

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We went out to celebrate in the evening at the Century Coffee Bar again, with a couple of Dutch people in tow who we had met at our hotel. There was no 'power hour' this time, but there was a drinking game involving cards wheeled out by JP - who else! - so it didn't take long before everyone had had a few (and before the Dutch people left!). The staff remembered us from two nights ago and came over to present us with katas (white scarves), and before long we were up dancing with them and limboing under said scarves! It didn't take much time for the resident drunken coppers to join us, and we were soon sitting back at the table shotting beer with them again.

The sleazy 70s style owner was in tonight as well - his hair and 'tashe had to be seen to be believed - and he took a particular liking to Hilde. His hand signals were legendary and certainly crossed the language barrier! We decided to call it a night not long after this and left JP and Andesh to keep the side up!

Fitting celebrations for an awesome day and a great trip which I shall never forget.

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