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Published: September 5th 2007
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prayer flag pass
at over 15000 feet, a sprint for a photo left me doggin. beautiful spot for a long-anticipated pee. After one night in Shangri-la, our 15 hour bus trip (we only would cover 200k) through the mountains out of Yunnan and into Sichuan was tedious but awesome. We had to take an alternate route(which they cited as they hit every passenger up for another 20 yuan while aboard) due to landslides, but the new road(if we actually took it) was a gorgeous and often very scary route. We drove along a beautiful clear river past Tibetan farms and slowly snaked across mountains and over prayer flag strewn passes close to 5000 meters in height. To return to a previous thought, I might as well take up smoking because my second hand intake has been through the roof, and I think I would be much more comfortable with the smoke if I knew I was a part of (and getting something out of) the problem. Furthermore, the habit is far from cost prohibitive here in China, and it is the farthest thing from a social faux pas. On the bus, nobody seemed to have a problem with the chain smoking Tibetans who kept their windows up, but I got a disapproving look or two for opening my window and letting in
a little cool air. After a flat tire and a breakdown we arrived in Daocheng in a famished state at almost 10 PM, and had our standard adventure of a time ordering, and then waiting to see what turned out, restaurant experience.
Getting to Litang from Daocheng turned out to be an unexpected adventure as well, as we learned that there was not a bus line between the two places. The local minibus cartel was hip to this reality and were prepared to play hardball in their desire to financially gouge us. What we thought would be a pleasant 3 hour morning drive turned into an 8 hour stand off over a fair price. A group of French scabs gave in after an hour or two, which didn't help our noble struggle. In our corner were two other salty travelling couples from Australia(one couple had been on the road for 14 months) and a cool, extensively travelled Belgian. I was prepared to hold out all week as the large beers in town were 2 yuan(little more than a quarter) and the surrounding scenery was beautiful. Finally a driver arrived from Litang, impervious to the ramifications of breaking with the
local taxi cartel and in a hurry to get back home. With the satisfaction that comes with a well earned victory, we enjoyed the cheap journey to Litang, marvelling at the formerly glacial landscape of randomly placed boulders, wildflowers and gurgling streams...
-fvn
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