Jiuzhaigou, a picture perfect postcard

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Jiuzhaigou 九寨沟 is a highlight in any trip. There are many different lakes in the area, some have beautiful reflections, some are colourful due to the rich minerals and various algae in the water, others have waterfalls flowing into them, bonsai like trees growing in them, or reeds changing the lake into a long green belt of water flowing through white reeds. Even the mountains are very colourful - there are all different shades of green trees growing in the mountains, mixed together thus weaving different patterns of green blanket on the mountains. Once the mountains and trees are reflected in still lakes, the lakes take on even more colours.

I last came to Jiuzhaigou many years ago. I remember staying in a guest house inside the gate, and walking out at night to appreciate the flowing waters under the moonlight. Now the Tibetan villages look almost empty, and it certainly was not allowed to have any tourist stay inside the gate. Even local Tibetans themselves are asked to move outside to live in the township (of course they are compensated for, and they get a portion of the hefty entrance fees tourists have to pay). There are also some elderly Tibetans who would never move out of their traditional home, or who still preferred to stay with their yaks on the mountains, than living in modern conveniences outside. I can see it’s better for the pristine environment that less people live in the scenic area. But to live in a place like this must be like living in heaven - it’s hard to leave.

On this tour we also visited Huanglong 黄龙, another UNESCO site. It’s famous for its many colourful ponds formed due to karst, its creeks and waterfalls. Pity there was no water at the bottom due to the drought. We climbed the timber stairs for 4kms before coming to the top where there is the most famous Multi-coloured Pools 五彩池. The pools are formed like terraces, with the clear water in green, light and deep blue, all very still and serene. Just as we climbed to the top, some heavy fog started to envelop the pools and the Taoist temple next to them. The place suddenly acquired a heavenly feel. It started raining already when we were at the pools. As we were walking down the mountain, the rain changed to hail storm. Small hails dropped on our heads and shoulders, didn’t hurt, but one can see the temperature was low. We kind of experienced four seasons in one day, sunny in the morning, spring amongst the forest in the mountains, autumn mist on top, and winter on the way out.

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