Week 14 China


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April 24th 2006
Published: April 24th 2006
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its been a while again and the most hectic week and a half yet.  We left Laos on a 8hr bus trip to the Chinese border and were pleasantly surprised by the organisation, order and sanitary conditions we were met with....then we saw the toilets (which have become standard so far)...basically squat toilets with no flush, no door and no wall so open for all to see lol.

From the border we bused to a town called Men lai where we were to get the 6hr transfer to Jinghong...we sat for 6hrs in the station waiting for a bus that never arrived so made the decision to take the overnight sleeper bus all the way to Kunming the following day.  The bus had three rows of 2 tier bunkbeds where i somehow managed to get the top bunk in the middle right at the front of the bus (the worst possible position) needless to say I did not get any sleep on the 23hr journey and was clinging onto my belongings as tight as possible to stop things falling on the people below.

Arrived in Kunming very tired, cold for the first time in 3 months and grumpy.  Kunming was merely a stopping point on the way to Lijiang further north west on the eastern edge of the Himalayas.  After a rest day wandering the city I got another 8hr bus to Lijiang.  The old town was stunning..just hundreds of small teak buildings set alongside a network of cobbled alleyways and little canals...unfortunately this was only a day stop before heading for Tiger Leaping Gorge (the deepest gorge in the world) on the high pass for a 3 day trek.  There was a brief moment of panic when i saw the snow capped mountains as we took the 3hr bus to the start.  The first day was a 3hr hike up hill to the first guesthouse...the easiest part.  It was bloody cold and the rooms had little in the way of doors but the view of the snow capped mountains close by and the one we were about to climb were amazing.  We left early the next morning for a long day trekking.  Firstly a 4hr uphill struggle around the 28bends as they are fondly know as.  I was sick twice on the way up as were several others lol.  From the top (2000ft) we rehydrated and saw for the first time the gorge...so deep we could not see the river running below, the eastern edge of the Himalayas on the right and a nice downhill infront of us.  From the top it was another 5hrs to lunch point at the Halfway guesthouse which had the most incredible views from the outdoor squat toilet lol.  

A few more uphills and amazing walks along the mountain edge looking down at the gorge below and a further trek below the low path to the water to see the source of the gorge's name...the rock a tiger supposedly jumped from across the narrowest part of the river, and we got to our guesthouse...a total of 11hrs trekking.  Slept very well.  The final day was supposed to be an easy 3/4hr trek along the low path (the road)to the ferry.  Unfortunately due to lack of signs, tourist information or any sign of human population it ended in our group getting lost and taking an uphill route for 5 hrs to the ferry...anyway I made it and actually really enjoyed it....especially having my ipod and dancing my way down the downhill sections.

It was nice to get back to Lijiang to rest but I had a full day ahead. The following morning...still in agony....I boarded the 8hr bus (ending in 10hrs) back to Kunming and changed onto the 18hr overnight sleeper train straight after.....on my birthday!!!!!

The night train was not so bad...3 tier bunk beds with 6 in a 'cabin' (no doors or any kind of privacy however. I was given a hip flask, 2 bracelets and a purse from the group....very sweet of them....and actually got a very good nights sleep. We arrived in Chengdu at 2pm the following day and checked into the hostel. Chengdu is fantastic....have already found 5 Starbucks coffee shops; a Carrefour and L'Occitaine products, also had my hair cut very nicely for 20 yuan or 3 dollars including a 20 minute head massage with vibrating massage chair. Its a medium sized city... apparently....twice the size of London!! Have managed to get lost a few times now.....no one speaks any english....took a photo of a toilet on my phone which has been extremely useful so far. The shear scale of China never ceases to amaze....every time we travel the temperature changes and the size of the 'towns' and cities is incredible. Tonight i went to a Sichuan Opera at Wuhua temple with tea, mask changes, shadow puppets, acrobatics and dancing....was really great and will go again in Beijing.

Tomorrow I am with only a few people for a week heading for Xi'an (a city with 'only 5 million people i am told) tomorrow night on sleeper train to the terracotta warriors and then onto Zhengzhou to visit the Shaolin monks...(crazy kung fu fighters in the hills)....will keep you up to date...only 3 weeks to go!!!


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24th April 2006

Great to hear from you Sim - Happy Birthday!! We tried to send a message on the day, did you get it? Be safe - see you soon Love Michelle, J, and the boys
24th April 2006

Can't wait to see the pics
Hi sim, This all sounds amazing, I hope you're taking loads of photo's for us to see when you get back.

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