Chengdu Days 2-3

---

The Coffee Buzz
Jim and I finally succumbed to our urge for a cup of joe, and ended up in the local Starbucks. This shop, in the heart of Chengdu, is indistinguishable from my local Mercer Island version. Same warm décor, same pretty glass pendant lights, same tall, grande and vente. Funny how the earthy color of paint on the wall and that wooden menu board can conjure up a bit of security in a strange place. We lingered for an hour….

A cup of coffee in China is clearly the most overpriced product we have found. The two of us paid 63 yuan for a mocha and an americano. This is just about $9 US. Not bad….only a dime or two more than we might pay on Mercer Island. But, 63 yuan in China could purchase a moderately nice multi-course dinner for 2, 24 (20 oz) bottles of Tsing Tao, a taxi ride to and from the airport, or couple of nice shirts. This makes no sense to me, and I can’t imagine why anyone in China pays this for a cup of coffee. Maybe that’s why I am a nurse and not an entrepreneur!

The Dance of the Road
I am beginning to catch the rhythm of the “dance of the road” in China.
The down beat: Horns are required equipment, and are used liberally! No one toots a horn in response to some assumed transgression here. Instead, the horn (or bell, or voice) is used as a declaration of intent: such as “I’m on your right, and I’m coming through, so don’t even think of weaving in my lane.” Or “I’ve been waiting here for my limit of 8.5 secs, and I’m movin’ on…be on your toes!”
The off beat: Lanes are suggestions rather than reality, and stoplights apply only to the other guy.
The syncopation: Driving, biking or walking here is a constant negotiation with the others on the road. In Beijing, the whole thing is a game of chicken, with the most aggressive person, bike or car winning. In Xi’an and Chengdu, there is a bit more give and take, but the fastest foot always gets there first.
The dance: We are all swirling around to the beat, and sometimes someone enters the line of dance unexpectedly, or stops abruptly, or tries a fancy move and brushes too close. We all nod our apologies, and move on, no hard feelings. The road is like that here. I have never seen a sign of road rage or even a bit of pique at the fellow dancers here. We all just get along.

This is our last day in Chengdu. Last night we heard Doug's band perform in a local bar. Doug played second guitar and sang harmony, while his friend Stewart, also form Beijing, is the lead singer and composer of most of the songs. John is the drummer and moved to Chengdu from Beijing a few months ago. Both John and Stewart are in China on Fullbright scholarships, and seem to have plenty of time for music. They sounded great....mixing up political commentary, love songs and even a song in Cantonese , which Doug wrote. Pretty fun!

We visited the home of a Chinese poet Du Fu, who lived from 712-770. A beautiful park and museum here in Chengu. We are sure enjoying the great parks here.

We are on the plane to LiJiang. More later....

---

Comments

[Mary]

Deja vu
I feel like I am reliving my trip thru you guys. Are thes paths still lined with 25 ft tall bamboo at Du Fu Park? I remember it as such a peaceful quiet place and Starbucks were not where to be found (just KFC and McDonalds in Shanghai), but then there were no Starbuck in KC back then either. Sounds like you are have a great trip. I am really enjoying your blog and can't wait to see you and all your pictures. Love Mary

[Catherine]

I can relate
Hi you guys - I love your blog! I can relate about the price of the coffee. For some ridiculous reason, I had a craving for a hamburger, so I went to McDonalds in Buenos Aires yesterday. For the price I paid for that hamburger, I could have gotten a full sit down dinner at a normal restaurant. It makes you wonder who is the real clientele -- hugs, Catherine

[Pat and Jim]

deja vu
Yes, Mary, Du Fu Park is still a place to find solitude and peace in the middle of town. I have a photo of those bamboo lined walks. We can compare hieghts when I see you in June. The government is charging 80 yuan per person these days to enter any of the public cultural sites. Not so much for us, but I imagine it puts these places out of reach of the average local. Too bad.

[Pat and Jim]

McDonalds
Hey Catherine. Always great to hear from you. Yup, we had a burger, too. We are enjoying the Chinese cuisine, but it is so very different, sometimes we long for grease that is not soy-flavored! Hope your trip is going well. Hugs, Pat