Yet More Blogs

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19-8 Blog

Waking up at 6 with the banging of bhuddist gongs, we got ready efficiently and after a breakfast of steamed bread, we set off at 7.15. there was lots of stepping ahead of us this day. We started off with morale high and legs strong, taking in some magnificent views of the cliffs that faced us. We knew that they would get even better as they went on. But they didn’t. We soon hit the cloud base and visibility was down to about 50m or so. Our view of our path was not hindered, but the scenery became just a cloud of mist, and we could only imagine what amazing scenery they were hiding from us. Later in the morning it started to rain. I suddenly became aware of how precarious the steps could be in the wet, and began to cling to the stair rail. Morale was getting low and the top seemed such a long way away. Later, we came to a stop as a monkey confronted us, begging for food. We raised our hands to show it we had no food, but the monkey had spotted a carrier bag of rubbish on Michelle’s brother. It grabbed the bag, but seemed temporarily satisfied of the plastic wrappers it found and we continued on our way. At about noon, after several shelter stops it stopped raining, and we stopped for lunch. Feeling better about the weather after a filling meal, we continued, our pace now quickening in a bid to get us to the top before dark. There was a temple at the top where we could stay the night and catch the sunrise in the morning, and this is what Michelle and her sister had done 12 years ago. We kept on walking, discussing claims that locals can climb the mountain in 3 hours, from bottom to top. “A monkey couldn’t do it in 3 hours” I had remarked, disagreeing with the claim. After returning from a toilet stop at a monastry we were passing I saw our group had company. A monkey with its young baby clinging to its belly was eyeing the group with curiosity. We edged our way past it, and paced on, but we noticed it was following us. Our pace quickened. Surely we could outrun a monkey that has its young hanging to it. We kept walking for another couple of minutes, took a breather, and still it was in pursuit. We just kept going hoping it wouldn’t catch us, but luckily a couple of Americans descending probably distracted its attention from us. We took a break in the next stop we came to, and I began to think that maybe a monkey could do it in 3 hours after all. We tried to keep the pace high enough to reach the summit, but towards the end of the day we could notice the air getting thinner, and with the steep steps it was necessary to take regular breaks. Eventually, at about 6.15pm, we made it to the bus stop. This is how a lot of tourists make it to the summit, opting for the less energetic method of ascending. More importantly for us however, it was only 6km from the summit. However, it was starting to rain again and there was not much daylight left. We took the sensible option of staying the night at one of the hotels there, and we might have a chance of catching the sunrise if we catch an early cable car to the top.

20-8 Blog

It rained all through the night, and continued until the morning. We were given a 4am wake up call that would get us ready in time to catch the cable car, but with rain outside it was unlikely that we would see a sunrise. In hindsight I believe we should have at least made an effort because the weather might have turned by then, but I think we were simply too tired to even care. Michelle and I got up at 8.30 and got a cable car to the top, with the remainder of our group making the most of the hotel by remaining in bed until check out time. The top was misty, drizzly, overcrowded and also a construction site. They are building a giant bhudda statue on the summit which I am sure is not for the benefit of the bhuddist residents of the mountain, but for bolstering tourism. With so many people and so little views, it was hard to even believe that we were so high (3099m), and we had to barge our way in to get a picture by the summit sign. A few strides away from there was the edge of the summit, where there was more breathing room, and I began to imagine what the views must be like. Incredible. Although it was too touristy for my liking, at least the mountain provided a way for non mountaineers to venture into the heart of a great mountain, and although a lot of the shop assistants at the shelters seemed to be money grabbing, there was a sense of camaraderie. We descended by cable car again to the hotel, and reunited with the rest of our group and got a bus down. This was more scary than the ascent, as the road seemed not much wider than the axle, but the driver had a different opinion. I was assured that it was very safe considering that this was a world heritage site, and before too long we were low and warm again. We got back to Leshan and from there headed south to a large town called Niu Hua. This is where another of Michelle’s Uncle and Auntie live. We headed out to dinner, or rather dinners, as we were treated to two dinners that evening, with a long twilight walk through the town in between. It has a quaint feel to it, with small humble shops lining the streets, and pedestrians, bikes and rickshaws still flow through the streets to give its distinct livliness.

21-8 Blog

We headed further south to the next large town, Wu Tong Qiao, another quaint town that lies as an island inside the course of three rivers. Its rivers give the town its cool temperature and personality. Here we met the last of Michelle’s father’s brothers. He, like his elder brother in Niu Hua work in the local government. This one is also keen on writing Chinese Characters, and he and his twelve year old son nicknamed Ke Ke wrote some characters for me in the traditional style as pre lunch entertainment. Gifts like these are very precious, and I am nervous about the prospect of safe transportation of them back home. After lunch we go out for a stroll, and although full, experience some of the street food. The people here often neglect the warnings of a full stomach when tempted by tasty food. I have recently seemed to have acquired a perpetual state of fullness. That evening we went out to dine again. We choose an outside establishment, next to the street. It is not the only eatery that prefers (or maybe can only afford) children’s chairs, but I admired the novelty as well as the food. This meal was another help yourself and cook yourself affair, where you can choose which meats and veg you want, all on kebab sticks. They are then dipped into boiling, spiced stock, and then when ready, you take them out and eat them. Michelle has really missed the life of eating well here.

22-8 Blog

In the morning we head to an indoor market, where motorbikes still manage to penetrate. What the highway code says about who has priority in indoor markets I would like to know. We decide to stay another night as Michelle is having so much fun with her family. After dinner, we go out for tea by the riverside. The town is alive with people, lights and music. By the riverside is an area where people are dancing. Mostly middle aged couples, the people here look as though they are really having fun. There is a bouncy temple, or whatever the eastern equivalent is to a bouncy castle, for kids, and its all free. As Michelle is not very confident at dancing, I could not convince her to join me in a dance. “It’ll be easy, come on.” So I had to join in myself first just to convince her, and joined in to an upbeat song. It’s harder than it looks. It was some kind of line dancing thing, where everyone was in sync. Except me. I followed one of the guys at the front but he was simply too good. I learned the steps quickly and before too long everyone was so impressed with my progress they were all laughing. The next number was a slower one, but it still took the likes of Michelle’s uncle to show me how to slow dance properly. It was not as easy as I thought.
The next morning we will be back in Chengdu. I had really enjoyed these last few days in smaller towns. Both of the families had moved to the towns because of their jobs, but I am sure they appreciate the quiter nature of a smaller towns, where everything is in Rickshaw distance. If the streets aren’t to busy, and your rickshaw driver reasonably safe (which is as much as can be hoped for) then it is a most relaxing way to reach your destination.

23-8 Blog

We caught an early bus straight to Chengdu, but our journey was delayed. The driver had found a problem with the brakes, and we turned around. I figured that we were heading back to the bus station to change buses, but instead we went to a mechanics place, and got the brakes done there and then. None of the passengers really minded about the wait, as the bus had a TV showing some kind of action movie. There are TV’s in most buses, even in some city buses. Come to think of it, there are TV’s everywhere here. In waiting rooms, buses, and they are on in the background in many a household. I found out the next day that some could even be found in supermarkets. After an hour wait, we continued, with brakes fully operational.
The rest of the day was quite relaxing, and I was invited to go shopping with Michelle’s grandmother. She is very lively, and managed to win the “who carries the heaviest bag home game”.

24-8 Blog

We went shopping this afternoon. I managed to pick some t-shirts for very reasonable prices. It was a relaxing day after our trip to Leshan and Emei, and I remembered what it was like to be in a big city again. A mother of one of Michelle’s friends, Lily, came for dinner. Lily herself is in Russia starting to establish her own restaurant. After letting our dinner go down, we go a few doors down the street for another snack and a chat before bed.

25-8 Blog

Today was spent helping Michelle’s sister Guo Qian move into her dorm at the Sichuan University here in Chengdu. We had the help of Michelle’s elder brother, and more importantly his car. It was not a big operation considering her possessions were few, and so not too strenuous. After dinner we went to see one of Chengdu’s old streets. It was very touristy, but still gave to some degree an impression of life like in ancient times. Shops sold overpriced souvenirs, but the goods seemed to be of good quality. One shop showed the stages of making silk, taking 2 hours to make from start finish. We didn’t have time to see the complete process! Outside was a candy place where caramelized treats are made by hand while you watch. All you have to do is spin the arrow, and what ever animal or fruit the arrow lands on is made for you. They range from apples to butterfly’s, with dragons being the most sought after. I chanted “I want dragon, I want dragon!” and it paid off. Everyone cheered. I don’t know why, I wasn’t going to share it with them!

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