Nanjing to Tunxi/Huangshan Mountains


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April 12th 2007
Published: April 12th 2007
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Tomb of Dr. Sun Yat-SenTomb of Dr. Sun Yat-SenTomb of Dr. Sun Yat-Sen

credited as the 'father' of modern China, as he devoted his entire life to overthrowing the Qing Dynasty and setting up the Republic of China.
We spent our last day in Nanjing just meandering through the streets of Fuzimiao.
Fuzimiao is a bit like Chinatown meets Disneyland meets Las Vegas. A bit traditional, a bit tacky, a bit bright. If you can imagine cannals adorned by bright blinking lights...Eventually we sat down to eat at a local place. We ordered dumplings, soup and some pork and vegitables--our usual staple. All for under $4.

Xiang Yi and I decided to pass on the Nanjing Massacre Memorial. We've both seen enough human skulls to last us a lifetime so we opted to go back to the train station early.

The overnight train from Nanjing to Tunxi was better than expected. Although it seemed all of China was boarding the train with us, when we came to our assigned beds, we found them comfy and wide. I don't know how they managed this considering there were 6 beds in one compartment. We were both assigned to bottom bunks, so no climbing for us.

The gross part was the smoking. Yeah. Can you believe someone started to light up a cigarette at midnight in an enclosed space? I don't know what it is about Chinese tobacco
Gardens in NanjingGardens in NanjingGardens in Nanjing

Part of the Ming Tombs and Yat-Sen Memorial.
but it's potent. The rocking of the train made for a restful sleep despite the smell. I cacooned myself under the blanket and was out like a log.

We reached Tunxi in the early morning. About 6ish. The hostel was about 200 meters from the train station so we walked. Check in was easy. We unpacked and slept in 'til until noon. I got up first (surprisingly) and set our close up for a wash. Xiang Yi and I had thought of visiting some neighboring villages that were built during the Ming Dynasty (600 years ago) but the book suggested a stroll towards the 'old city'-- which proved to be a nice surprise.

Just behind all these modern commercial buidling and shopping malls, we found the old city with its Ming Dynasty structures. It was a bit touristy but at least it wasn't as tacky as Fuzimiao. We had lunch there, same stample food, tasty as usual. Have I mentioned that I've yet to have a terrible meal here?

The following day we got up early to face Huangshan Mountains. The book has said it was an 8 hour hike but Xiang Yi told me it would
Huangshan MountainsHuangshan MountainsHuangshan Mountains

Now that I've actually climbed Huangshan, Xiang Yi says I'm at least 20% Chinese!
only be 3 because we were taking the tram up. When we deboarded the tram, I had this suspicious feeling that it would take more than 3 hours to conquer this mountain. I've been to Yosemite and these mountains looked steep.

We began our climb in high spirits. We talked about all sorts of things and even agreed to go dancing in Beijing. Some people can climb for 3 hours easily, we could dance for 4 hours easily. No problem.

Yeah. Whatever.......

We reached the peak after 6 hours...and then Xiang Yi tricked me into going to "Heavenly Peak"-another 2 1/2 hours! I keep telling her that I didn't see any lodgings--no---another 2 hours.... At some point after 8 hours, I stopped taking pictures, talking or even looking at anything besides the steps in front of me. I just want to get to our hostel and collapse on the bed. The last leg of the climb, all I kept thinking about was getting down...we hiked for over 12 hours that first day....to think of a 10 hour descent? Oh God, no!

The following morning, we found an alternate descending route--only 4 hours! Needless to say, I took no pictures on the way down. I couldn't wait to get off that mountain. Once I reached the bottom---I got a big CoolAid smile! I was soooooo happy. I sat on a boulder and waited for Xiang Yi to come down the mountain. Mind you, the entire way up she was chirpy, but when she came down--HAHAHAHAH--- the look on her face was priceless! Whereas I was all smiles, she was now in a foul mood.....funny how things work huh?

We got back to our hostel, pack our stuff and off we went by bus to Hangzhou. We've rested most of the morning, enjoyed a large breakfast and tea. Both of our moods have improved although our legs ache from the climbing.

on the move....jessica


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