Guilin Part 2

---

The weather did NOT improve at all as I set off on my ride on Sunday morning. I left the hostel around 10am and into the cold rain. I took precautions to ensure that I stayed completely weatherproof. Waterproof shoes, gaitors, pants, jacket. I was good to go; so I thought. The ride started smoothly enough, heading south out of Guilin. The road was good and the rain was light. After a few kilometers, I got off the main road and was heading into the Karst landscape of the region. I don't know really how to describe the geography of this area. The flat plains are interrupted by tall jagged peaks that seemingly come out of nowhere. I am in deep southern China, perhaps on the same latitude as Miami, so the climate is tropical. That being said, it is still winter time, and it is STILL raining, so I was a bit cold. The ride went through village after village and the road was ever changing. Sometimes it was alright, sometimes it was perfect, but other times it was a mud pit. Really tough going in some places. Often, in the villages. they were working on the roads, so instead of pavement, there was gravel, but the rain had saturated the ground, so my bicycle sank into the mix. One friendly old man holding a baby pointed and laughed at me. "Hey! Foreigner!" Thanks for the encouragment, grandpa! I continued pedalling.

As agravating as the weather was, I couldn't help but appreciate the surroundings. It is like something I have never seen before. Really tall peaks that soar straight out of the earth. They are rocky, yet covered in foliage and each peak seems to stand alone. None are strung together in any kind of chain. It is quite peculiar.

After 4 or 5 hours and 70km of, what I would call, work, I arrived at a crossroads and a gas station. I asked the attendant, "what is that way?" "Yangshuo" (my intended destination). "How far?" "maybe 25km." "Ok, what is THAT way?" "Xingping" "How far?" "Maybe 5 minutes." And so I arrived in the small town of Xingping. It is located on the Li River and is THE place where the 20rmb note gets its image. A very very smart choice of places to rest. A very large sign advertising hot showers, comfortable beds, pizza, river views, blah blah blah, didn't need to read more, greeted me in the town. Guesthouse: 300m that way. I picked up the pace and found a nice guesthouse with indoor bicycle parking, friendly staff, and a warm bar area. I ordered a big plate of fried rice as an appetizer and checked in. My room has a hell of a view. 100rmb (~$15usd) gets you the room in the advertisement. Warm shower, river view, and so on. "Does it have a heater?" "yes" "DEAL!" I inhaled my fried rice and took a shower and dried my clothes. I borrowed the hair dryer for shoes as well. I was dry and relatively comfortable for about 50 or so kilometers. Unfortunately, I rode 70 and I got saturated. My jacket and pants held up, but everything found a way into my extremeties, leaking into my gloves and shoes. Oh well. After showering, I went downstairs for a drink and found a friendly Italian guy checking in. We hit it off immediately and met for pizza in the evening at the restaurant in the hostel. Another American showed up about 10 minutes later, followed by a German about an hour after that. A couple from Shanghai was also at our table and we had a really nice evening. The German could play guitar and had a terrific voice. I asked, "Know any Paul Simon?" "Who's that?" Me, the Italian, and other American, "WHAT???" Kids these days....

Today continued the 72 hour plan for rainfall, so I decided to forgo my Yangshuo plans and take it easy in Xingping and enjoy the day off. I AM on vacation after all. The Italian, German, and I shared breakfast before the German had to take off back to Guilin. Rain continued to fall. "Tea?" "sure" More conversation and relaxation in the hostel. After a while we decided to brave the elements and had a really pleasant walk around the town. It is a mostly fishing town that is trying to encourage its tourism dollars. Luckily, they aren't trying TOO hard. The Italian said that Yangshuo was exactly like Lijiang (an ancient town in Yunnan that I've been to a few times. It is a tourist nightmare). It is best avoided. Yet another reason to stick around Xingping. After our walk it was time for lunch. Nice noodles at a local shop prepared by a friendly lady. I had two bowls. "Please, ma'am, I'd like some more". Then it was time for the Italian to head back to Guilin. I saw him off and wandered back to the hostel. There was a girl from Peru enjoying her pizza and just staying for the day. I chatted her up and we spent the afternoon together doing some more wandering. We found the spot of the 20rmb note and snapped pictures. She was halfway through a three country tour of Australia, China, and Japan. Methinks she is not hard up for cash. Regardless, a nice companion for the day. After she left, I was the only one left in the hostel, so I went off on my own. The rain had stopped by the way, so, rejoice! The weather report says that it has stopped for good and that tomorrow should be a sunny day. Fingers crossed! I went for a hike up to one of the peaks and took a few pictures. I will go up tomorrow morning and hopefully finally get a sunrise photo.

Tomorrow, after sunrise, I will ride back to Guilin. I have a nice, long, 20 hour train ride ahead of me on Wednesday morning. I don't know why the return trip takes nearly 4 hours longer than coming out, but whatver. I have a good book and a window. I should be fine. Will write more tomorrow! I am excited for tomorrow's cycling adventure!

---

Photos

Li River Scenery
A view near my guesthouse

On the Road
Lots of three-wheeled vehicles accompany me along the way

My Bike
...before it got all muddy

Streets of Xingping
One can almost hear the raindrops on the stone paved street

Li River Tributary
Lots of rain means lots of mud

On Top
Me on the peak overlooking the river

Li River Scenery 2
A little fishing village. Note the variety of watercraft. Traditionally, they used comorants for fishing. Not used often today.