Published: April 3rd 2012March 31st 2012
I hated it so much the last time I came to the northern Guangxi area. That was almost 10 years ago and road construction work seem never ending, really pain in the arse...mean pain!!! you always find yourself seat and wait inside the windows closed bus as...you wouldn't dare open the window because of the dust. I came back up here just because I didn't feel like going home that soon, and seem like all the road had been upgraded(I wouldn't surprise if it wasn't). Ride on a comfortable train from Nanning and landed myself in Rongshui, The county claimed to be one of the ethnic heaven of Dong and Miao, and famous for a series of Newyear event during Lunar January. I was hoping to find another Yao subgroup In Tonglian township, the 4 hours bus journey through a narrow road along the Beijiang river, with many hanging bridges fly between the two banks, some places actually offered wallpaper kind of scene outside my window. But unfortunetly weather wasn't promising, raining on Tonglian market day, quiet with so few people, anyways...local said there wouldn't be any dressed Yao people even in good weather, The Yao in the area now only
wear a black turban for headdress. Still...some Miao woman came out wih costume on market day, but I wasn't in any mood for picture under the rain!
The town of Rongshui was surrounded by couple of Karst hill with cave, hike up one and you should reward by a 360 view of the whole area, but...don't hold your breath, there not much to write about this town. Once up into Liuzhou region, food scene had change...no more Cantonese favour! the disappeared of the tasty soya sauce, the mild chilli sauce...now I had to back on the noodle menu again! lucky they still serve the fresh rice roll here which I will never get tire of! Rongshui market came every 2 days, and you could see some Miao women showup.
Further up the road I came to Sanjiang, The township got its name because of the integration of 3 rivers, The Daoliujiang, The Xunjiang and became the Rongjiang river. The Xunjiang run through and splited Sanjiang town into east and west quarter, with the new part of town had been expanded on the east side, beside the river view, same like Rongshui...not much to write about Sanjiang town.
But with its border location, Sanjiang still an important gateway to reach the Dong and Miao area in Guizhou. Also an easy access point into Longsheng Terrace region then onto Guilin and Yangshaw. River still played an important part in local daily life on the country side, river crossing by boat could be seen in many places. Down to Laobao township there still many boat services one could experience a taste of river journey in the area. Laobao used to be an important trader junction in the old day before the roadwork connection, there was also a train station but now no more passenger service. "it come alive one a year on the 13th Lunar May" an old man told me. The day is the Dragon boat Festival. said that was the right time to come for the minority scene as Yao and Miao will come down from the mountain. Travel along the Daoliujiang river also offered pretty scene, with many nice Dong village speed pass my window. I visited the Fulu market and finally got a chance to use my camera again after more than 5 days! There in Fulu you could see many Dong and Miao women. It
a kid handling the boat
might take a little bit of time to distinguish the different between the 2 group, as their costume are rather similar in a way! in tone and in style...still...the Miao tend to be more with knee length trouser, with legging, some still wear plaited skirt on top of the trouser, diamond shape bodice apron with full embroidery on chest area, and with heavier jacket. While the Dong tend to use more lighter material for dress, simplier decoration on the apron.
There are more photos below