Guilin—A river through spring


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March 15th 2009
Published: March 15th 2009
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Yu-long River nearby YangshuoYu-long River nearby YangshuoYu-long River nearby Yangshuo

A board ride in this river would be lovely
Located in Guangxi Autonomous Region southern China, sharing border with Vietnam to the south, heavenly gifted ever spring climate condition, friendly natives and impressive culture, unique and finger-licking nice delicacies, a leisurely but vibrant city without industry, an absolute must go in China, that’s Guilin, a place always gives ppl different experiences in every single learning.

Taking breaks while beautiful scenery comes up might be a smart way to spend our lives for lifetime itself is a long long trip mixed with feelings of grief and joy. Life also means something else while tasting those ordinary details but not just repeatedly spending days meaninglessly. So I always annually comfort myself several relax days in order to remind myself that making life is for enjoying life. Lijiang and Guilin are certainly my favorites tow in China.

The best season for Guilin tour is definitely summer though it’s hot and pretty humid feels like being steamed 24 hours. The entire area would be covered by fresh cute green color alike northern Vietnam. Photography, hiking, camping, backpacking and biking all give different ways to learn from different angles. Amazing Li River links three attractions: downtown, Yangshuo and Longshen, also being considered a classic regional private package vacation tour.

Downtown Guilin is actually quite small a biking offers a lovely fresh air city tour. Several need go in town, contains a local residential area along the ancient city wall where an open mart can be found, the Elephant Trunk Hill which considered the symbol of this city, s riverside mountain with a shape looks like a giant elephant drinking water from Li River, Over color Hill, a featured position where a birds eye view of entire downtown is available, the Osmanthus lake, a lovely fresh water lake in town. A special program at night is an artificial waterfall view in Waterfall Grand hotel--water falls along the steep glass screen of this 5-star hotel from 8pm to 9pm every night.

Several caves including Reed-Flute Cave won’t be my recommendations though they are highly praised by local tour administration. The reed-flute, an unique ethnic instrument might be an interesting souvenir, 2 yuen for 5 or 10 of them from those vendors.

I’m unfortunately a“5-star hotel guy”, that’s a cash-swallowing personality means I can certainly handle any hard day time activities, like a 6-hours hiking under summer sun light or even worse, however a nice and safe hotel provides A.C. hot shower, laundry, informative and good looking reception girls, reliable security and lovely breakfast for overnight staying must concludes a whole day’s tour. Sheraton Guilin is my favorite for its river-view position, extreme clean and quiet hotel rooms and a lovely open night-mart walking street full of colorful shops, local restaurants and café just behind the hotel. The rate goes to 380 yuen ( around $56 )per night though I make reservation through my local T.A friends. That’s quite lot money for an ordinary young man who only has an ordinary job. However spending cash for spending lives in a high quality way usually feels not that bad, both life and wealth is for spending for ppl can keep neither of’em by the end of days. Reviewing pics I took at day times and planning the next day in my room is a real joyful activity after a hot but nice day tour.

The cost in Guilin is actually quite inexpensive if taking hostels or those so-called “commercial-hotels” can be found all over the streets. The average cost of them goes to 50 to 150 yuen ( around $8 to $23 ) per night. A.C, hot shower and some other frequently used facilities also available in most of those hostels, some even provide broadband internet plugs.

Meal would never be a problem in Guilin both for Chinese or westerners. The most frequency is well-known Guilin rice noodles—usually mixed with beef slices and spicy boiled river snails. One bowl of rice noodles with beef or river snails costs just 2 yuen in a locally frequently patronized restaurant. Besides, those fresh water fish or shrimps are always available and all taste really nice. One thing special would be turtle—which considered a high class and expensive dish. Some freezing beer for a summer night would be wonderful, a locally produced nice and cheap brand called “Li-quan” ( springs of Li River ) is highly recommended. Our Chinese sometimes like to get some snacks while enjoying beer, some cold dish, usually boiled bamboo shoots or some eatable fresh plants shoots, boiled salty peanuts or dry To-fu, spicy river snails, beef or even some internal animal organs are most frequent local style beer companions in Guilin.

A hiking all along the Li River in stead of a river cruise would be pretty cool for backpackers, photographers and those individuals prefer to personally learn everything and hate being escorted. The correct way of this hiking should be started from Yangshuo, the destination of Li River cruise but not Guilin city. Ppl should bus to Yangshuo firstly then start hiking from there after settle down in a hostel. An informative and experienced local guide would be pretty much needed in case being lost or some other possible unexpected. The best hiking route is from Yangshuo till Xing-ping, s small village by Li River, also the return point after a local family hotel over night staying. Photographers would be loving this for rich native customs, water buffalos hanging all along the river shore, beautiful local residents, nice river view, fresh green vegetations, different feelings and hidden nice shots in every moment from day break till sunset. Camping in wild is not quite safe for some reasons.

However this is not an invitation for group travelers. The good of boating will be safe, comfortable, leisurely and fully escorted and explained, that’s a proper option for most group travelers especially westerners.

Yangshuo is a small fishing village by Li River, also the destination of Li River cruise. It’s now becoming a transfer center for bother group travelers and individual tourists. Those countless hotels from 4-star grand hotels to 50 yuen hostels are everywhere all along that famous West Street—a massive mart full of shops, sticky vendors, restaurants and cafes. Several days staying in Yangshuo is my favorite after 5-star hotel experience in downtown Guilin.

Surely the west street is total commercial but it doesn’t bother me at all. In the matter of fact ppl buying and selling always be a universal popular thing, and it’s nice. Those shops won’t kill you while walking on a street full of shops. Ppl obviously won’t like to stay in desert or prisons though there’re no shops there at all.

A cultural T-shirt shop on west street pretty much impresses me for those wonderful shirt sold there. Some interesting dialogues or phrases printed on those shirts make those simple clothing quite meaningful. Several I remember are “I have no money”, “I’m doing bored just ignore me”, “Still single and available”, “Here comes a Lao-wai ( a folk way to call all westerners means foreigner )”. Or you can do any personal design.

There’s a French restaurant on the street,
A restaurant where I love to goA restaurant where I love to goA restaurant where I love to go

Just behind Sheraton Guilin
the keeper is a French who married a local girl while touring here years ago. They are said to serve real original French cuisines. However I prefer an Italian ice cream shop nearby, order a cup of “Italian ice cream” while tasting local style “pizza” in a road side café is my quality time. Another local special snack—lotus seeds thick soup, or flummery, is a prepare program before ice cream.

Resting or reading in those roadside café is a lovely thing to do. You can get backpacking infors, use internet, make friends with different travelers from different countries, or get to know few local waitress or club singers.

Beered fish is a famous and unique local delicacy you shouldn’t skip. It’s actually fried fresh water fish with scales on, the flavor goes to spicy and tasty which is my favorite, the Da-shifu ( master chief ) restaurant just located by the end of west street being said the best option for original beered fish.

Biking is the major daytime activity in Yangshuo. There’s a typical biking route about 20 miles for one-way trip through the real countryside full of beautiful views. The rental fee is cheap, usually
Nine horses painted on cliff sideNine horses painted on cliff sideNine horses painted on cliff side

The dark parts on that cliff further ahead in this pic was said fom nine horses painted by fairy, only smart and lucky person can view all of them. It's a well-known spot of Li River cruise.
10 to 20 yuen per day, procedure is simple, they don’t even need deposit just telling you what time you should return the bike cos nobody would steal a bike from one who don’t even think about you that way. The return point of this biking called Grand Banyan Tree, a landmark you would never miss cos anyone would tell you where it is.

A fishing bird’s show and so-called “Impressive Liu-sanjie” in Li River are frequent night activities for group travelers. Liu-sanjie is a well-known legendary native folk singer who still being honored locally and pretty much represents the city of Guilin. Ppl go and see that show for tow, one is the special design, the stage is just on some board or ships in the river while spot lights come from all directions, mountains are used as background, tow is the director, he’s the guy who also designed the opening of 2008 summer Olympic in Beijing. I certainly have seen both of them and I would like to recommend the fishing birds show.

Ppl visit Longshen, a small village nearby Yangshuo for the so-called Dragon Spine Rice Terraces view, the best season is also summer for the rice plants turn the best green in summer. This is an option for backpackers though some groups also do this place for few hours. The best way to view the whole thing is taking a motorcycle ride to the mountain top which is not available for big groups. A local overnight staying will be necessary for photographers for the day break or sunset pretty much offers nice shots. It’s also a nice place to learn the local ethnic custom for Zhuang nationality group live there.

Several old towns and villages still on my tour menu to be experienced, though Guilin is already a popular destination of China tour for most westerners, however I still love this place in my own way. If there must be someone worthwhile then Guilin is an absolute worthwhile place to be repeatedly learnt.



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One of my favorite dishOne of my favorite dish
One of my favorite dish

Fried eggs with fresh bamboo shoots
A fishing birdA fishing bird
A fishing bird

They put a metal ring on the birds neck so that the bird can't swallow fish while capture one


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