Muzungu African Queen in China


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Asia » China » Beijing
September 24th 2006
Published: September 29th 2006
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The CoronationThe CoronationThe Coronation

How to become a Muzungu African Queen Step 1. Buy five packs of Darling brand, Ghanaian style for hot water use hair extensions. Number 30 if you are going for something reddish. Number 27 if you prefer something more golden. Or both if you are feeling a little mixed. Step 2. Have a seat and get comfortable. You are gonna be here a while. Step 3. Separate out a tiny swatch of hair and wrap a long strand of Darling around the base, 2/3 30 and 1/3 27. Step 4. Braid. Step 5. Try not to yelp as tiny clumps of hair are yanked and pulled and tangled and wrapped and yanked some more. Step 6. Repeat steps 4 and 5 over and over and over and over and over and over . . . . . Step 4. Braid the braids into fat, chunky braids. Step 5. Heat the water. Step 6. Soak the chunky braids in a tub of hot water, three or four at a time. Step 7. Towel dry chunky braids. Step 8. Unbraid chunky braids to reveal dozens of kinky little braids. Step 9. Chop off the excess Darling in one fell swoop. Step 10. Sit under a very hot dryer in a very hot climate. For a long time. Fun. Five hours and fifty bucks later, presto, you are a Muzungu African Queen!
I am a muzungu. A white chic. No doubt about it. But with five hours and fifty bucks, even a muzungu can become an African Queen.

I took the plunge in Mombasa, on the Kenyan coast, just a day before leaving the continent. It took me until the 11th hour in Africa to get up the guts, so now I’m a Muzungu African Queen in China. Not a regular scene on the streets of Beijing, that’s for sure. But man, does it make you famous. I make just a moment’s stop to consult the map, buy a drink, or take in a sight, and in no time I feel the telling gentle tug. It is usually the women who actually touch them and call over their friends to have a tug. But even the guys give me a big approving smile. My favorite was from the old man in full Mao suit and cap tending sheep by the Great Wall. He gave me a lovely toothless grin, pointed at his hair, and gave me a big thumbs up. Too bad my days as the Muzungu African Queen in China are numbered. Pretty soon I’ll be back to the average Muzungu
The MAQ in the Bell Tower of BeijingThe MAQ in the Bell Tower of BeijingThe MAQ in the Bell Tower of Beijing

The northern terminus of the Forbidden City axis. Note how the roof tiles blatantly symbolize Kenyan cornrows.
Mousy Blond in America, but I’ll never forget these glory days.



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Checkin' out the MAQCheckin' out the MAQ
Checkin' out the MAQ

At the mote around the Forbidden City, flanked by the famous Mzungu queen willows. “It’s fine to touch lady, but next time wait until I stop my bike, OK?”


29th September 2006

i love the hair!
sarita! you look gorgeous. i am sitting here in my drab london office with a huge smile on my face. welcome to the big hair club! Nicole xx
29th September 2006

Princess
Sarah, you rock! You look like a Sci-Fi princess! I love it.

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