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Published: October 18th 2013
Tinanmen Square
Non-Chinese in photo are our groupUp at 7. Much refreshed. Busy breakfast at the hotel. As I'm sure we'll encounter most of the trip, breakfast is dual Western/Asian. We particularly enjoy the dim sum items. Off on the bus at 9. Our major destination today is Tiananmen Square and the Forbidden City.
Tiananmen Square was built by Mao to celebrate and showcase his successful revolution. It is a massive open space, reputedly the largest square in the world, flanked by a variety of imposing buildings reminiscent of Soviet Russia and some much older gates. There is a sea of people, rushing and flowing according to logic difficult to comprehend, the currents partially delineated by gates and guards. There is a separate, incredibly long stream of people switch-backing across the square who are waiting to see the embalmed remains of Mao. We bypass all of this, walking north along the east side of the square, like salmons swimming upstream, chasing the elusive red and white flag held by our guide.
At the north end of the square, we pause for a group photo in front of the Gate of Heavenly Peace (all the buildings and gates have similar lofty names). This is the one you
have seen many times in photos, adorned with a large portrait of Chairman Mao. Passing through the gate, we enter the Forbidden City.
The Forbidden City is called thus because it was off-limits for over 500 years, home to two dynasties of Chinese emperors until the last emperor was overthrown by the Revolution in 1949. Ringed by a moat, it is the largest palace complex in the world and a World Heritage site. We enter through the Meridian Gate into an enormous courtyard (the first of many), which was once used for public spectacles presided over by the emperor. Like the Topkapi palace in Istanbul, the deeper you penetrate, the closer to the emperor you get and the higher must be your rank and role. We proceed through gate after gate, each revealing a courtyard with square buildings that are similar in design, but with subtle differences indicating their function and importance. For example, the number of mythical beasts carved into the roof cornices indicates a building's importance. A number of the buildings house museums, but we have no time for them. Of interest are a series of paired lion statues, representing the emperor and empress, and hundreds of
enormous brass bowls whose water was used in case of fire.
After hours of walking (not kidding), we reach the inner sanctum where the emperor, personal staff and current favorite concubines (selected from three thousand!) actually lived. Here the buildings are small, with rooms the size of the ones in our homes.
Beyond the emperor's living quarters is the Imperial Garden, the focus of which are large rocks sculptured by volcanism and water, as well as ancient cypresses. It would be a wonderful place for contemplation if not filled by hundreds of people.
We exit the Forbidden City at the north end. We then head west along the moat until we find our bus at the northwest corner. The next stop is an excellent lunch in a quite beautiful restaurant decorated in the emperor's colours of red and yellow. One of the interesting dishes consists of white potato strings in a sauce. After lunch we have time for a short peaceful walk among the cypresses along the canal before climbing aboard the bus.
We alight in the Hutong, the oldest area of Beijing. From the imposing grey-brick Bell Tower, we follow the bouncing Canadian flag through
Market wares, Beijing, China
Hard to choose between the scorpions, cocoons and dried turtle... a rabbit's warren of twisty alleyways and ancient houses, some functional and some crumbling to dust, but all inhabited. We eventually pause to visit the home of a man who routinely opens his doors to foreign visitors. A dead ringer for Jackie Chan and clearly an engaging fellow, he describes through Wanda's interpretation the lives of himself and his family in the heart of this ancient district. We wander through his home, pet his collection of very contented cats, and admire the combination of old (hundred-year-old furniture) and new (an iPad).
Our next adventure is a rickshaw ride back to the bell tower. The long train of rickshaws (actually modified bicycles) snakes through the narrow streets, giving us a second opportunity to observe the interesting architecture and fascinating little shops in the district. Our driver is an likeable fellow with no English, but he is clearly not happy with the tip we offer in line with Wanda's recommendation. Perhaps he thinks we weigh too much.
The bus delivers us next to the main market area of Beijing. Reminscent of the Istanbul bazaar, the crowded streets are packed with people and lined with shops offering trinkets and some of the most interesting food items we have ever seen. Noteworthy are the live scorpions impaled on sticks which will be cooked to order as a tasty kebab. We emerge from this crowded area into a spacious avenue boasting major brand names on either side like H&M (coming soon to Ottawa I hear), Gap, even an Apple store.
We are given an hour of free time. Violet and her buddies are interested in picking up some gifts for home, so we head back into the bazaar. Eventually Violet starts bargaining for some fans. The price for seven fans starts at 350¥. After intense bargaining that includes Violet stalking off in disgust, the price ends up at 35¥, about a dollar apiece. Not bad!
Violet and her buddies are pooped after the strenuous negotiations, so I strike off on my own to burn off some calories, up the main thoroughfare I described earlier. It's not long before a young well-dressed lady strikes up a conversation with me because she wants "practise her English". When she invites me to go for a coffee, I wise up and politely decline. When I am accosted twice more, I realize that I have a target painted on me, as a tall, good-looking Caucasian male with an expensive camera around my neck. So I elect to scurry back to the safety of my wife and her friends. I honestly imagine that the ladies were not actually after my body but were setting me for a robbery.
Back on the bus and on to supper. The treat tonight is Peking Duck and it is delicious. Apparently you are supposed to eat in a moshe-style pancake with Hoisin sauce, but I like it best on its own. The other dishes are great as well, although no one likes tonight's soup, a watery milk-like concoction.
After supper, we have the option of returning to the hotel or attending a optional show at the Red Theatre. We opt for the show, which is a Broadway-style story of a young boy entering a buddist monastery, becoming a kung fu master, overcoming the enticements of the physical world (i.e., women) and eventually becoming the abbot. It is fast-paced and very loud, with all manner of people leaping about and special lighting effects--and we can hardly keep our collective eyes open, as the change in time catches up with us once again.
Back safely at the hotel, we collapse into bed. A long, tiring but rewarding day.
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Teresa Dedman
non-member comment
Fantastical china tour
Ravenously reading every word David. As always, your blog makes me feel that I'm right there with you. Look forward to the next insertion. Love to all. Teresa