#82 Teaching at Taizhou Teachers College, China (Tian'anmen Square, the world's largest city square)

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The largest inner-city-square in the world, Tian'anmen Square (2,450ft long and 1,650ft wide), in the very heart of China's grand Capitol of Beijing, displays itself on the grandest scale. It is a Square created in recent history, but its foundations are in the heart of every Chinese citizen.

With pride for their nation, each Chinese hopes, and makes it a mission, to stand on Tian'anmen's millions of stones, listening to ghosts and their whispers of history's past "grand" events. National and world history continue to polish the square's foundation of granit, as millions of feet crowd during great spectacles or daily non-events.

Pausing and resting in the middle of this immense expanse of never-ending stone, each visitor foremost appears miniscule standing on 100 acres of openess and vastness.

Tiananmen Square is not created as a park, and lacks any foliage. On Beijing's clear and sunny days, the head of many a visitor could fry an egg, and there is no tree in sight for momentary relief.

With tactical negotiating skills, hundreds of vendors make a killing on those clear days, selling fake Olympic caps to their next tourist-victim, whose skull begins to bubble.

Tian'anmen Square is a parade-ground intended for the proclamation of history to an audience of millions from the podium of Tiananmen Gate. From here speeches are made and proclamations are read, as all eyes focus on the portrait of Chairman Mao Zedong.

There is un-obstructed view to- and from this top-rostrum of Tian'anmen Gate. It was the ordained point from which emperors handed down edicts in golden baskets to the population, and it was fitting, that from here the formation of The People's Republic of China was proclaimed by Chairman Mao, on Oct. 1, 1949.

Surrounding the four sides of this immense square some of the nation's grandest structures and monuments beckon:

1. TIAN'ANMEN GATE is the best known bordering structure. Its ancient and traditional Chinese architecture is visible to the North, with its fixed portrait of Chairman Mao facing to the South across the expanse of the square.

(As visitors pause in the center of the square, the portrait in the distant North is hardly discernable. Some say, they can feel and see the curvature of the earth standing here, so large appears Tian'anmen Square.)

2. CHINA'S NATIONAL MUSEUM extends along the East-side of Tian'anmen Square in Soviet-style architecture. On its steps, the large 2008 Olympic Clock is hardly visible from the square's center.

(China's National Museum was built in 1959, has undergone major renovations, and houses some of China's greatest national treasures. It will continue to host world-class exhibitions.)

3. THE SHENGYANG MEN ARROW TOWER and the QUIANMEN GATE border the square on the far South. They are the last-remaining reliques from massive fortifications, that once surrounded the city of Beijing. Only these towers remain testifying to the fear, Ming and Qing emperors once had for their safety.

(All of these wall-fortifications, that completely surrounded Beijing until 1950, have been torn down and destroyed by the orders of Chairman Mao. The stones and bricks were used for construction above and below the streets of Beijing. I have been told, that huge under-ground complexes exist below the city of Beijing, constructed for and during times of serious Sino-Soviet confrontations.)

4. Facing the West-side of Tian'anmen Square is THE GREAT HALL OF THE PEOPLE, the seat of China's legislature. It is open for visits, except when the National People's Congress is in session. It is well known for its vast auditorium, that can seat almost 10,000 participants. TV audiences from the West will recognize it, as it is often the back-drop for major government and policy speeches by China's leadership.

CHAIRMAN MAO'S MAUSOLEUM, known as the CHAIRMAN MAO MEMORIAL HALL, and THE MONUMENT OF THE PEOPLE'S HEROES are en-framed by the buildings noted above. These two share center-stage "within" the square:

A. The MAUSOLEUM houses the embalmed body of the Chairman, but is closed for renovations at the moment. Usually, thousands of people daily will wait hours in line, and pay homage to the their former leader. It is their pilgrimage of a life-time. Each morning the body lifts from its freezer, and is lowered after visitors have departed.

B. The MONUMENT TO THE PEOPLE'S HEROES is a mammoth granit obelisk, decorated with episodes from China's revolutionary history. Calligraphy from Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai are engraved on its stone. It stands in what is considered the center of the square.

Making our way through the center of Tian'anmen Square, this 100 acre parcel of concrete and stone, overwhelms the imagination. Personal inspiration is needed to make sense of this "spacious" environment. One might still hear echoes and shouts from the masses, as they became part of the great historical spectacles that give Tian'anmen Square its spirit and soul.

To walk the square's polished stones, and to view the stark, surrounding architecture from its center, makes the pilgrimage to Tiananmen Square a "personal" experience for each visitor.

Tiananmen Square has been the crucial focus for much of China's more recent history, and I have listed a few as a time-line:

*A number of serious political demonstrations took place there during the Republic, between 1911-1949.

*From the rostrum of the Gate of Heavenly Peace (TIAN'ANMEN GATE) , Chairman Mao proclaimed the establishment of the People's Republic of China on the First of October, 1949.

*In the 1960s, from its rostrum, Mao called for a "Cultural Revolution" as millions of young Red Guards were encouraged in their controversial behavior and an excess of zeal.

*It was also from here, that masses demonstrated their support for Premier Zhou Enlai in 1975, weakening Chairman Mao's reign, and heralding the downfall of the Gang of Four, including Chairman Mao's wife.

*In 1989 it became the focus of many life broadcasts by the Western-News-Media, as students demonstrated for greater democracy in China, which culminated in a military confrontation and crackdown.

(A similar incident today would be less likely, since all entering college students in the PRC, "since 1990", must undergo several weeks of "military training" before beginning their academic semester, and so the monitoring of every college student has become an accepted part of their campus-life.)

Let me take you now on a "Photo- journey" into and across Tian'anmen Square, probably the worlds most "renowned" city-square:

It was one of Beijing's more frequent sunny days. There really have been more of them.

On this particular "odd-numbered" calendar day, only cars with "odd-numbered" license plates were permitted on the streets across Beijing, to test the effects of emissions and airparticles, accomodating fewer cars on the road. The next day, only "even-numbered" car plates would be allowed. The lighter traffic made the day an even more pleasant adventure.

Beijing hopes to substantially improve the air-quality in preparation for the 29th Olympic Games in August of 2008, and from TV reports I understand, that during those experimental days, there was a significant improvement in the quality of air. Certainly I found the day perfect for picture taking.

I stepped from my humble hotel on the West-side of old-Beijing. The West-Gate into the historical inner city, known as the Forbidden City, was visible from the hotel's entrance.

(Returning in the evening, I realized how centrally located my hotel was. Adjacent, the most exotic and most famous street-food-market offers its sights and smells and tastes, daily. The attached and latest exotic food-photos are from this market. For me, the experience is no longer overwhelming, and I was about to taste the scorpions, but my stomach urged me to wait for another time.)

Walking toward the West-Gate, along historical streets of old Beijing, old life and modern life converge:

The tourists mingle with the locals, who take little notice of each other, and only commerce gives them impetus to interact.

Modern busses, cars, trucks, and taxis make room for the hundreds of bikes and multitudes of pedestrians.

The local breakfast of dumplings and noodles beckons on sidewalk-tables, next to Inns offering western-fare.

Among the small buildings and trees lining the road, I encounter laborers, who are busy destroying the old and constructing the new with the tools of their ancestors. ( All construction-work in China, whether demolishing a small house or building a new mega-high-rise, is very labor-intensive.)

Entering the West-Gate and the walls of the ancient Inner City, the inner-sanctum of the Ming and Qing emperors, the size of these historical buildings become overwhelming. Multitudes of visitors surrounding them look more like ants, astonished at their own insignificance, and these structures were built centuries ago.

How could an enemy of the emperor make his way: First to conquer the Great Wall of China, only to confront a second immense wall with its towers, that once surrounded Beijing the City, only to fall prey in this third foreboding defense-complex, which was also surrounded and protected by gigantic walls, structures, and fortifications?

Well, it was not until the Western powers, such as France and England, entered the city by force of the cannon, and plundered the treasures of the empire, did China's last imperial rulers understand, that walls are things of a past.

The massive fortifications no longer protected from the looting and burning of occupying powers, who arrived un-invited to stake a claim in China, and changed the rules of war. The imperial leadership must have realized, the handwriting was on 'the wall'??

But my intention this day was, to climb the stairs to the rostrum of the Tian'anmen Gate as Chairmain Mao did for his proclamation in 1949. From this vantage point on top of the gate, just above his portrait, Tiananmen Square opens its wings, and displays Beijing as a grand city.

Looking down on the millions of cheering Chinese, Chairman Mao himself must have been overwhelmed by the throng of people this square could hold during China's momentous event. It certainly provides one of Beijing's best views, and is worth the admission fee.

The rest of the day, was spent traversing Tian'anmen Square itself. Then I proceeded to walk the complete circumference and outer perimeter of the walls and canals protecting the Forbidden City.

The pounds were running down my skin. It took a complete day to stroll Tian'anmen Square and the fortifications of the Forbidden City. At supper time I arrived again at the West-gate, near the hotel, my starting point in the morning.

And here, next to my hotel, I was greeted by my supper, the "delicious" street food at the Night Market, just off Wangfujing Street. After "verbally" endorsing some tasty and exotic morsels from the street vendors, I settled for some fresh vegetables. Finally, the calm of the hotel offered a welcome retreat from the crowded streets of Beijing.

*****If you have the time, I encourage you to enlarge the photos for their greater detail. I hope everyone is doing well and that only joy and happiness surrounds you. *****

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Photos

The expanse of Tian'anmen Square, largest inner-city-square in the world.
Almost 2,450ft.long(800 Meters)and over 1,650ft. wide (500 Meters) the immense space was formally laid out and created in the 1950's.

Tian'anmen Square, seen as Chairman Mao saw it.
Standing at the exact spot at the rostrum, on top of Tian'anmen Gate, from which Chairman Mao made his proclamation Oct. 1, 1949, he would see millions of jubelant Chinese cheering and waving below him. Next to him assembled the ranks of other notable leaders of the Revolution.
His Mausoleum is visible in the far South. To the left, the East, stands China's National Museum displaying the Olympic Clock. To the right, the West, portions of the Hall of the People are visible. For un-obstructed view, not a tree graces the square.

My hotel in the heart of old Beijing.
It was morning when I left the hotel entrance, and walked the tree-lined streets along the West-side of old Beijing.

Road to the West-Gate of the Forbidden City.
Morning traffic was still limited, as store-keepers are waiting for the tourists. The merchants and workers are sitting in small old-fashioned "restaurants" to enjoy breakfast of noodles and dumplings.

Open invitation for a Chinese Breakfast.
Tables of food encourage the hungry to a typical Chinese early morning meal.

Fidelity: A wonderful morning encounter.
This happy lady takes her dog to the park for his early "nature-call". The dog was old and walking was difficult, she told me. The walk seemed a joy for both of them, and both loved the attention.

Away with the old, in with the new.
Along the way, older structures are demolished brick by brick, to make room for a more "modern" environment?

An invitation to a late breakfast.
Passing a non-descript restaurant, the smell and sounds of this little place made my stomach jump for joy. The young lady, Ms. Li Wen, was the owner, and in perfect English she encouraged for a taste.

Clean and simple ambience, but food to recommend.
The staff in Ms.Li Wen's restaurant prepared delightful dishes, and the amounts of delicious foods fortified me for the walk to come.

What is beyond these walls?
After my breakfast with Ms. Li Wen, I left, only to be confronted by these imposing fortifications.

Early morning visitors travel my direction.
Once inside the West-gate, I join early morning crowds, who also make their way South among imposing structures.

Old Chinese cannons were no match against the fire-power of France and England.
Within the walls and fortifications, history displays itself.

The Meridian Gate is just another obstacle within the Forbidden City
To get to the back-side of Tiananmen Gate, it is necessary to pass through this imposing structure. We continue to head South, under and through the center passage way, once reserved for the emperor.

Only the birds could see, hear, and believe, what happened behind such fortifications.
Resting along the base of the Meridian Gate, visitors from around the world can sit where, before 1911, few would have dared and live to speak about it.

We continue toward the South, and see Tiananmen Gate.
Reaching the South-side of the Meridian Gate, the Tiananmen Gate is in sight.

The portrait of Chairman Mao hangs opposite to these walls.
This handcarved marble-stone lets us know, we have finally arrived on the back-side of Tiananmen Gate, and are puchasing a ticket to climb the stairs, used by the Chairman to address the Chinese people.

Stairs leading to the top of the rostrum of Tiananmen Gate.
On this morning, few visitors were in line to climb the stairs once only reserved for emperors and China's great leaders. From here Chairman Mao made is way to proclaim the new China of 1949.

Little prepares for the experience of looking across Tiananmen Square.
From the top of Tiananment Gate, Chinese tourists from every corner of the PRC are as awestruck as are foreigners by the colossal space and buildings that make Tiananmen Square.

The interior of Tiananmen Gate
Preserved for posterity are the halls and rooms used by assembled dignitaries, who are about to mount the podium and present themselves to the population below. (The guard gave me permission to take a photo, but no flash, since the early morning brought few visitors.)

Looking back, toward the Meridian Gate.
One last look from the back-side of Tiananmen Gate toward the Meridian Gate and the Forbidden City beyond. It reminds of the route I just came from. What secrets echo among these walls?

Departing Tiananmen Gate, to enter Tiananmen Square.
We have made our way down the Tiananmen Gate through the center portal, below the portrait. Behind it lies the Forbidden City, and in front of it we begin to traverse Tiananmen Square.

Comments

[Celia]

:)
schneider... thanks for these incredible visuals and narration. i hope to see tiananmen square for myself someday. thanks for taking the time to continue to share all these experiences with us. love you and miss you.. hopefully we can see each other soon. hard to believe that youve been gone for so long and we're all at college already...